Artificial grass is a great alternative option to a natural lawn. It requires very little maintenance as you won’t have to mow it or take care of mud during the winter. Today, artificial grass is composed of fibres and infills of a mixture of sand and granules of recycled rubber. They've commonly been applied in commercial situations, but are becoming a lot more popular in people’s homes. It is possible to lay artificial grass on practically any surface, regardless of whether it is flat or sloping. It's safe for young children and pets, plus it drains like genuine grass so you won’t end up with puddles. It is environmentally friendly as you won’t need to water it and there is no reason to treat it with pesticides or feeds. You should get as much as 20 years out of your artificial grass with no upkeep and hassle. It won’t fade or flatten in time, and it'll retain its colour right till the end of its life. When you require a local pro to lay artificial grass for you, just fill out the form and we’ll put you in touch with as much as four contractors who will give you a no cost, no obligation quote.
Artificial grass project prices can vary a lot, depending on the product you choose and the amount of it you need. The location of your property and the accessibility of the area youâre planning to cover can make a big difference too. Generally, the average cost of artificial grass projects in the UK is about £4,000. However, itâs a good idea to get several quotes from tradespeople working in your area, so you can determine whatâs a fair price for your project.
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£3525
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| Labour cost | £2,800 | |
| Material cost | £1,000 | |
| Waste removal | £200 |
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Kilmacolm is a town and civil parish in the Inverclyde council location, and also the historical county of Renfrewshire in the west central Lowlands of Scotland. It lies on the north incline of the Gryffe Valley, 7 1/2 miles (12.1 km) south-east of Greenock and around 15 miles (24 km) west of the city of Glasgow. The village has a population of around 4,000 and becomes part of a broader civil parish which covers a huge rural hinterland of 15,000 hectares (150 km2; 58 sq mi) containing within it the smaller sized settlement of Quarrier's Village, originally established as a 19th-century household orphans' home. The area surrounding the town was resolved in prehistoric times and emerged as part of a feudal culture with the parish divided in between different estates for much of its background. The town itself continued to be little, giving services to neighboring ranch areas and also working as a religious hub for the church. The name of the village originates from the Scottish Gaelic Cill MoCholuim, indicating the commitment of its church to St Columba. The parish church was mentioned in a papal bull of 1225 revealing its subservience to Paisley Abbey, and it remains on the website of an ancient religious community dating to the 5th or sixth centuries. Once more in the 13th century, Duchal Castle was built in the church and also is noteworthy for being besieged by King James IV of Scotland in 1489, following the resident Lyle household's support of an insurrection against him. Feuding between the honorable family members of Kilmacolm was commonplace in the Middle Ages, as well as in the 16th and 17th centuries, the church once more involved the focus of the Crown for supplying support to banned spiritual Covenanters. The character of the village transformed dramatically in the Victorian age, with the arrival of the train in Kilmacolm in 1869. Much of Kilmacolm's contemporary buildings were constructed between this day and also the break out of World war. The introduction of such transport links allowed the town to increase as an affluent dorm village serving the neighboring urban centres of Glasgow, Paisley and Greenock. The economic situation of the village mirrored this population change, moving away from its conventional dependence on farming to providing tertiary sector solutions to residents as well as site visitors.
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Laying artificial grass on concrete needs a slightly different approach to if you’re installing it over soil. The good news is that it’s much less labour intensive, as you don’t need to do any digging or levelling.
Ideally, your concrete base should be in good condition, and have an adequate fall on it to provide efficient drainage. If it doesn’t, you might have to do some repair work or drill some drainage holes first.
When you’re ready to start, begin by cleaning your concrete base. Use a jet wash or a hose and brush to dislodge and disperse any dirt or plant growth. Once it’s clean, leave it to dry completely.
Then, you need to fit an underlay - usually it’s made of foam. This will provide padding to make your artificial grass softer and more comfortable to walk on. It will also help to level out any slopes on uneven parts on the concrete. Make sure it’s a good-quality underlay that’s permeable – if it’s not, you could end up with damp artificial grass and nasty smells as it will hold moisture. Roll out the underlay and cut it to shape, taping any separate sections together.
Next, use an adhesive to secure the underlay to your concrete. Make sure you leave gaps in the adhesive to allow water to drain off easily. Leave the glue to dry, then you can start laying your grass.
Roll out your grass like you did with your underlay, cutting it to shape and joining any separate sections together with artificial grass tape. Then glue the grass to the underlay. Leave it dry, give the grass a brush, and it’ll be ready to use!
Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.
Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.
Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.
After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!
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