Average Wooden decking cost
The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375
Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025
Avg. price low | Avg. price low |
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Avg. price | Avg. price |
Avg. price high | Avg. price high |
£4700
£3525
£2350
£1175
£0
Wooden decking installation cost in your area 2025
Labour cost | £1,050 | |
Material cost | £375 | |
Waste removal | £75 |
Advantages for Wooden decking
- Wood has the authentic look, smell and feel over the stamped or embossed texture of composite decking
- Wood decks remain relatively comfortable underfoot during hot weather
- Hardwood decking options can have a life expectancy of 40+ years
- Timber decking is flexible and can be easy to cut up and rearranged in to new styles and layouts.
- Wide range of colours available, both in wooden and composite decking
Disadvantages for Wooden decking
- Wood decking requires routine maintenance to prevent rot, fading and discoloration
- Composites cost roughly twice as much as pressure-treated wood decking
- Cheaper composite decking can have a very artificial look of plastic
Wooden decking Manufacturers
Wooden decking FAQs
- Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
- Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
- Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
- Step treads (the actual step themselves)
- Step risers
- Coach screws
- Deck screws
- Saw
- Drill
- Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
- Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
- Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
- After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
- If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
- Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
- Timber for the frame and legs
- Type 1 MOT hardcore
- Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
- Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
- Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
- Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
- Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
- Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
- If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
- Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
- Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
- Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
- Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.
Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.
- Decking joists
- Coach screws
- Coach bolts
- Combi drill
- Socket set
- A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
- Pencil
- Decking preservative
- Sandpaper or sander
- Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
- Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
- Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
- Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
- Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
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