Garden Sheds in Corsham

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Garden Sheds in Corsham

Garden sheds are a crucial aspect of any useful garden space. They provide storage for heavy garden tools, as well as for other tools. A sizeable garden shed could even provide enough space for plant potting or a general workshop. Alternatively, a big shed could be used as an inside seating area. Garden sheds are available in an enormous choice of sizes and can be specified to your exact requirements, giving you complete control over the amount and placement of windows, type, size and location of door, and design of roof. Garden sheds normally come in one of three materials. Wooden sheds are the common style and can be integrated well into any garden creating a natural look, particularly if the wood used for the shed is matched to adjacent fences. Wooden sheds are still extremely popular, although they will require maintenance by retreating or staining the wood to preserve the life of the shed. Garden sheds are also constructed from metal, which is very strong and therefore ideal for storage of tools and other equipment. Metal sheds also require minimal maintenance. The final material for garden sheds is plastic, which in modern examples is far more durable than might be expected. When contemplating a garden shed, it's crucial to make sure that you pick one which will fit in your garden space. Garden sheds should be sited on a level area, and will require a base to be built as a foundation. This base could be made from either concrete, paving, gravel or a floating wooden base, but will need to be the right size for your shed and able to support the weight of your shed when loaded.

Average Garden shed cost in Corsham

The typical cost of Garden shed is £600. Costs vary based on the materials and the organisation selected. The upper price range can be as high as £690. The material costs are typically around £150

Average price per Garden shed job in 2025

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£2,475

Avg. price

Avg. price
£3,425

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£4,345

£4500

£3375

£2250

£1125

£0

Prices based on actual Garden shed costs for Corsham, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Garden shed installation cost in Corsham 2025

Labour cost £420
Material cost £150
Waste removal £30
Time frame: 1-2 days

Garden shed searches in June 2025

Garden shed Projects in Corsham in May 2025

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Requests for quotations in Corsham in May 2025

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Corsham in May 2025. 0% change from April 2025.

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Wiltshire in May 2025. 0% change from April 2025.

Source: Numbers calculated based on the search volumes in major search engines

Garden shed searches in cities and towns near Corsham May 2025

Corsham

Corsham is a historic market community and also civil parish in west Wiltshire, England. It is at the south-western edge of the Cotswolds, just off the A4 nationwide route, 28 miles (45 kilometres) southwest of Swindon, 20 miles (32 km) southeast of Bristol, 8 miles (13 km) northeast of Bath and 4 miles (6 kilometres) southwest of Chippenham. Corsham was historically a centre for farming and also later, the wool sector, and also continues to be an emphasis for quarrying Bath Stone. It has several significant historical structures, among them the manor house of Corsham Court. During the Second World War and the Cold War, it ended up being a major administrative and manufacturing centre for the Ministry of Defence, with numerous facilities both over ground as well as in obsolete quarry tunnels. The church consists of the villages of Gastard and also Neston, which is at evictions of the Neston Park estate. Corsham appears to obtain its name from Cosa's ham, "ham" being Old English for homestead, or village. The town is referred in the Domesday book as Cosseham; the letter 'R' appears to have gone into the name later under Norman impact (possibly caused by the recording of regional pronunciation), when the town is reported to have actually remained in the ownership of the Earl of Cornwall. Corsham is recorded as Coseham in 1001, as Cosseha in 1086, and as Cosham as late as 1611 (on John Speed's map of Wiltshire). The Corsham location came from the King in Saxon times, the location at the time additionally had a large forest which was removed to give way for additional growth. There is evidence that the community had been referred to as "Corsham Regis" as a result of its reputed organization with Anglo-Saxon Ethelred of Wessex, as well as this name continues to be as that of a primary school. Among the towns that flourished considerably from Wiltshire's wool trade in medieval times, it preserved its prosperity after the decrease of that trade via the quarrying of Bathroom rock, with below ground mining functions encompassing the south as well as west of Corsham. The primary turnpike road (now the A4) from London to Bristol passed through the town. Numbers 94 to 112 of the High Street are Grade II * listed buildings called the "Flemish Weavers Houses", however there is little cogent evidence to sustain this name and it shows up most likely to stem from a handful of Dutch workers who arrived in the 17th century. The Grove, opposite the High Street, is a typical example of classic Georgian design.

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FAQs

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
Who makes the best garden sheds?
Who makes the best garden sheds? While you think there might be a straightforward answer, who makes the best shed for you depends on what you need it for, how much space you have and more. We’ll help you find out who makes the best garden shed for you. What to look for in a garden shed Before you fork out for a new shed, consider:
  • What you need the shed for
  • How much space you have
  • How big you need the shed to be
  • Which style of roof you want
  • What material you would like
  • How big your budget is
Once you know the answer to these questions, you can take a look at some of the best brands of garden shed. Shed-Plus Champion Shed-Plus Champion heavy duty sheds are robust wooden garden sheds that have fully ledged and braced doors and integral ‘lock and key’ locking system. They come with a 15-year anti-rot warranty, so should last you a long time; they’re made from 12mm tongue and groove panels which helps to keep them strong and secure for years to come. Our top pick: 8′ x 6′ Heavy Duty Apex Single Door Shed
  • Hand-crafted from Nordic White Spruce
  • Felt roof reinforced with high-grade polyester
  • Tongue and groove cladding makes it more weatherproof so ideal for items that must be kept dry
Forest Garden Forest Garden makes a range of wooden sheds to suit any outdoor space. They offer overlap sheds, which are the cheapest option, shiplap sheds which are tongue and groove, and premium tongue and groove sheds. You’ll be able to find something to suit your budget and your needs. Our top pick: Overlap Pressure Treated 6×4 Pent Shed
  • High eaves for more head height and to store taller items
  • Pent roof and fixed windows allow lots of light
  • Ideal for putting up against a wall or fence
  • Door can be hinged either side
BillyOh BillyOh sheds are affordable wooden sheds that come in lots of shapes and sizes, so you’re bound to find one to suit your garden. They offer wooden floors as an optional extra as well as lots of other things so you can create a bespoke shed that will work best for you. Our top pick: Master Tall Store
  • Ideal for small gardens or those with fewer tools to store
  • Apex roof for water runoff
  • Tongue and groove walls
  • Tall floor-to-gable door
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
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