- Plan your shed base
You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
- A concrete base laid on hardcore
- Concrete slabs on sharp sand
- Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
- An interlocking plastic system
- Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
- Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
- Put up the shed walls
- Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
- Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
- Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
- Fit the roof
- If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
- Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
- Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
- Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
- Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
- Add the shed windows
- Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
- From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
- Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
- Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
Isle Of Jura
Jura is an island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, beside as well as northeast of Islay. With a location of 36,692 hectares, or 142 square miles, as well as only 196 citizens recorded in the 2011 census, Jura is far more sparsely inhabited than Islay, and also is one of the least largely inhabited islands of Scotland: in a list of the islands of Scotland rated by dimension, Jura comes eighth, whereas by population it comes 31st. Jura is part of the council location of Argyll and Bute. The island is mountainous, bare and sterile, covered greatly by large areas of covering bog. The main negotiation is the east coast village of Craighouse, which is its capital. Craighouse is home to the Jura distillery, producing Isle of Jura solitary malt whisky. The town is additionally home to the island's only hotel, store as well as church. Other negotiations consist of Ardfernal, Ardmenish, Inverlussa, Keils, Kinuachdrachd, Knockrome, Lagg, Leargybreck and Tarbert. Between Jura's north tip as well as the island of Scarba exists the Gulf of Corryvreckan, where a whirlpool makes flow harmful at specific states of the trend. The southerly part of the island, from Loch Tarbert southwards, is assigned a national scenic location (NSA), among 40 such areas in Scotland, which are specified so as to identify areas of remarkable scenery and guarantee their protection from unacceptable development. The Jura NSA covers 30,317 hectares in total, including 21,072 ha of land, with a further 9245 ha being marine (i.e. listed below low tide).
