Find a Bathroom Fitter you can trust in Usk.

Regardless of the quality or how perfect the products for your new bathroom are, getting the right bathroom fitter for your bathroom refit is just as important to your project as any other thing you can possibly think of. Hiring a fitter is quite simple, but hiring a fitter who can get the job done to your requirements is another thing entirely. To hire the right bathroom fitter, there’s the need to consider all the features of a bathroom as well as any specialized products you may have selected. For instance, you’re going to need a professional tiler if you have quartz resin tiles. Also, if you wish to fit some luxurious underfloor heating, you’d need the services of a qualified electrician. Here are some of the questions you should ask from your bathroom fitter when having your bathroom fitted.

• Have you got any experience working with this type of product? Each and every bathroom fitting job is unique. Your question should lean more towards whether or not the bathroom fitter possesses any experience working with the type and style of the product your selected rather simply asking the number of bathrooms they’ve fitted.
• Request a portfolio. Ask the bathroom fitter if they have any portfolio you can go through. This will give you a good idea of the quality of their works.
• Ask technical questions. Technical questions will go a long way to help you separate the boys from the men. The trick here is to know the answer beforehand, so when the prospective bathroom fitter provides an answer you’d know how good they are. 

Fitting a wall hung toilet in your home or property bring about a plethora of benefits. Not only are they a feat of modern washroom design, but they’re also able to offer a wealth of practical benefits. Given the fact that the cistern and pipework are all going to be concealed within a duct system, the areas that’ll be exposed is significantly reduced. This, ultimately, protects them from accidental damage and tampering, and also leaves a flush, easy to clean surface which goes a long way to improve the hygiene in your washroom.

Fitting a wall hung toilet can be a tricky and time consuming task especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, it’s advisable to hire the services of a plumber who can guarantee the best results for help. So how do you fit a wall hung toilet?

• Complete the 1st fix plumbing works. This should be done before the installation of the IPS panels and cubicles.
• Fit the stainless steel frame to the wall. High Pressure Laminate and solid grade Laminate IPS panels usually comes with pre-clipped metal DUCT set framing. Simply unclip the panels and number them on the back. Fix Unistrut to the back wall of where the new IPS DUCT will be positioned. Once done, you can then fit the stainless steel framework and fix the frame with M10 bolts to where it makes contact with the wall and floor.
• Wall hung pan support frame. This involves bolting the frame into the floor and back wall of the newly created void
• Lining up your toilet. Make sure that your toilet pan are marked out even and spaced before hanging it to enable cubicle enclosures that’ll be fitted later on.
• Cisterns, flush kits and cut outs. This invloves cutting out holes on the solid grade laminate IPS panels to allow for you push butoon or sensor flush control, waste outlet, flush cone and fixing rods. Once done, clip back the IPS panels to the stainless steel DUCT set frame.
• Second fixing your wall hung toilet pan and controls.

If you’re about to get a new bath installed in your home or property, then its only wise to carry out a research to determine the cost to complete such a project. In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, we’ve created this post gives you the price range of the purchase as well as installation of a new bath. Let’s take a look!

There are a number of factors that can influence the total installation cost of a bath, however the main ones include the price of the bath and the installation cost. These two components are higher for steel baths, freestanding bath and whirlpool bath when compared to shower baths and corner baths. In general, it can take within the range of £390 to £5500 to purchase ans install a new bath. Depending on the type, below are the rice range for different type of baths:

• Shower bath. This is the most popular and costs within the range of £180 to £2,275 depending on the brand, material, warranty and other factors.
• Corner baths. These can cost anywhere within the range of £213 to £1,007.
• Steel baths. These can cost anywhere within the range of £287 to £3,360
• Freestanding bath. These can cost anywhere within the range of £489 to £4,315
• Whirlpool bath. These can cost anywhere within the range of £185 to £1,061

And while its possible to get a quick evaluation of the estimated costs when you’re planning to install a new bath, the end figure can vary. Most professional bath installer will charge anywhere between £110 to £500 depend on the type of the bath as well as how complex and intricate the task at hand is.

Using a designer to professionally design your new bathroom will mean that you know you’re getting the best style of bathroom to fit your room. They can advise you on the best layout, styles, and colours to turn your bathroom into a beautiful space to relax.

Is your bathroom sink damaged or old and looking fragile? If yes, then you’re most likely interested in fitting a new one as soon as possible. So how do you go about the installation of a new bathroom sink? This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to bathroom sinks and for a good reason. The fact is, if you’re DIY competent, then this is a task that shouldn’t give you too many hard times. However, if you’re without a proper training or experience, we’d recommend hiring the services of a plumber to guarantee the best results as save yourself some time and additional money which may result from costly errors. In this guide, you’ll learn the steps to bathroom sink installation.

✓ Tap preparation. Apply a small amount of plumber’s mate putty to the base of the taps to be installed.

✓ Install the taps. Identify the taps holes in the sink and squeeze the taps firmly in place, fit the washers and back nuts to the sink’s underside.

✓ Wipe off excess putty. Use a suitable tool to wipe off excess putty that has been pressed out by the tap.

✓ Install the wastage drain. Fit the wastage drain easily into the sink in such a way that the back and front (not side to side) is faced by the two wastage holes.

✓ Tighten the wastage pipe. Squeeze the wastage pipe in, include the washer on the opposite side as well as the nut. Tighten properly with an adjustable spanner and wipe off excess put using a screwdriver or any suitable tool.

✓ Fit the sink to the wall. Put the bolts in position before hanging the sink. Once done, then bolt the sink to the wall and tighten the nut with an adjustable spanner.

✓ Ensure that it’s level with the help of a spirit level.

Fitting a shower tray may seem look like a daunting task and well, to some extent, you’re perfectly right if you feel so. This is why shower tray installation is best left to a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results the first time especially if you lack the confidence required to pull off the task. If you wish to make this project a DIY task, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the adjustable shower tray fitting process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Position the shower tray at the spot where you intend to have it fitting and outline the tray with the help of a pencil. Install the adjustable riser legs, then proceed to adjust them to an even height. Make use of a spirit level to make sure the tray is flat and level, then connect the tray’s waste outlet.
2. Make sure that the riser legs are properly adjusted as this will make for a smooth fall to pass out the waste. Usually, 50mm fall per metre of pipework will be a good guide. Once done, ensure to fit the centre leg.
3. Determine the appropriate route to the waste pipe from the waste trap inside the tray.
4. Put the tray. Make use of a spirit level to ensure the tray is level to eliminate drainage issues and avoid overflow.
5. Examine the riser legs to see that they’re engaged with tightened up lock nuts.
6. Cover the gaps around the shower tray’s surroundings using the side panel.
7. Use a sealant to secure the shower tray between the wall and the tray.
8. Fix the side panels to the shower tray to conceal the pipework from view.

Shower screens are available today in various range of shapes and sizes and also hinged and folding designs. They’re primarily designed for use in straights bathrooms as the prevent water from splashing onto the bathroom floor when having a shower. They’re also able to offer a great alternative to shower curtains which can appear dated over time and are also considered not to be as hygienic as shower screens. If you’re looking to have a shower screen installed, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a professional. The latter which is more advisable as professionals are able to guarantee a clean and top-quality job the first time. In this post, we’re going to take you through the shower screen installation process to enable you make a hassle and error free installation. Let’s take a look!

1. Examine the area for pipework. Firstly, you’d have to turn off the water at the mains before starting the task. Determine whether the wall you’ll be fitting to is solid or plasterboard, then use a multi-purpose detector to discover any pipes near to where you’ll be drilling.
2. Place the u-channel. Position the shower screen u-channel against the wall at 40mm depth from the shower’s edge. The u-channel should sit flush with the shower – use a spirit level to ensure that it’s level.
3. Mark the screw holes’ spots once the u-channel is level.
4. Drill the holes into the tiles where the marks have been made then put in the plugs.
5. Secure the u-channel with a sealant along the back of the u-channel.
6. Further secure the u-channel using screws and fixings. Once done, proceed to seal the channel’s bottom to the shower using a sealant.
7. Put the shower screen into the u-channel after placing the rubber seal along the glass screen’s bottom.
8. Secure the shower screen by drilling holes into the frame and using screws with cover caps to finish it off.
9. Seal the outer edges of the shower screen.

Once you have your new bathroom installed, or perhaps you’re only replacing the old downlights, you’d probably want to know how to go about fitting your new bathroom downlights. If yes, then you’re not alone! This is a very common question amongst several homeowners and we wish to guide you through once and for all. However, it must be said that if you are not a competent DIYer or probably lack the confidence or skills to pull this off, then it’s advisable to hire a professional to get the best results and also save yourself some money and time.

Here are the list of the tools you’ll need to fit your bathroom downlights: Tape measure, chalk line or laser, pencil, pad saw, hand drill, hole saw and screw drivers.

✓ Measure the bathroom ceiling and mark out the central point of the light which will be where the downlights will be placed. Drill a small pilot hole here.

✓ Check above the ceiling to ensure that there’s no pipes, joists or wires in the way. It’s always a good practice to make sure that there’s sufficient room around where the downlight is to be installed in order to avoid placing it too close to a joist or any other obstacle. You should try as much as possible to maintain a 6 inch gap around the spot where the downlight is placed to make sure the fitting does not overheat.

✓ Use a hole saw or a plasterboard saw to make the cut out for the downlight. Check the downlight’s box for instruction on the size.

✓ Once you’ve been able to make a clean cut ceiling hole, pull through the wiring through the hole so that the downlight can be wired. Once done, then you can fit the downlight into the hole by holding the two springs back against the sides of the downlighter and push up into the hole.