Find a Bathroom Fitter you can trust in Tring.

Regardless of the quality or how perfect the products for your new bathroom are, getting the right bathroom fitter for your bathroom refit is just as important to your project as any other thing you can possibly think of. Hiring a fitter is quite simple, but hiring a fitter who can get the job done to your requirements is another thing entirely. To hire the right bathroom fitter, there’s the need to consider all the features of a bathroom as well as any specialized products you may have selected. For instance, you’re going to need a professional tiler if you have quartz resin tiles. Also, if you wish to fit some luxurious underfloor heating, you’d need the services of a qualified electrician. Here are some of the questions you should ask from your bathroom fitter when having your bathroom fitted.

• Have you got any experience working with this type of product? Each and every bathroom fitting job is unique. Your question should lean more towards whether or not the bathroom fitter possesses any experience working with the type and style of the product your selected rather simply asking the number of bathrooms they’ve fitted.
• Request a portfolio. Ask the bathroom fitter if they have any portfolio you can go through. This will give you a good idea of the quality of their works.
• Ask technical questions. Technical questions will go a long way to help you separate the boys from the men. The trick here is to know the answer beforehand, so when the prospective bathroom fitter provides an answer you’d know how good they are. 

Surprisingly, bathroom renovations usually involves a wide range of trades to complete. And to make sure the work is done to a standard accepted by building regulations, some of these trades is required to have some particular legal qualifications. Therefore, if you’re interested in getting a new bathroom project done, you’ll probably need to call in more than just your plumber.

Below are the different trades you may need to successfully install a new bathroom:

✓ Plumber - The plumber’s task would be to install the new bathroom’s pipework and reposition and fit the bathroom items as needed.

✓ Tiler - To remove old tiles ( if any), prepare and tile the walls and/or floor.

✓ Labourer - To detach the old suite, strip out old tiles as well as floor covering etc.

✓ Plasterer - To skim the ceiling or board out the walls before you tile or plaster.

✓ Joiner - To re-hinge doors or construct studwork. For instance, when including a new bathroom to a bedroom.

✓ Painter - To paint the newly skimmed ceiling with the help of anti mould bathroom.

✓ Electrician - To install underfloor heating, ceiling spotlights, an extractor fan or a shaver point.

✓ A builder - A general builder will be required if your new bathroom project requires any structural work to be carried out such as installing a new uPVC window, putting in an RSJ and lots more.

✓ A decorate - As the name suggests, the decorator can come in to make the bathroom look a lot more attractive and to finish the job.

And above all, to ensure proper coordination and success of the project, you’ll also need a person who’ll serve as the lynchpin in charge of the entire project.

Fitting a shower tray may seem look like a daunting task and well, to some extent, you’re perfectly right if you feel so. This is why shower tray installation is best left to a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results the first time especially if you lack the confidence required to pull off the task. If you wish to make this project a DIY task, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the adjustable shower tray fitting process to ensure you get it right the first time. Let’s take a look!

1. Position the shower tray at the spot where you intend to have it fitting and outline the tray with the help of a pencil. Install the adjustable riser legs, then proceed to adjust them to an even height. Make use of a spirit level to make sure the tray is flat and level, then connect the tray’s waste outlet.
2. Make sure that the riser legs are properly adjusted as this will make for a smooth fall to pass out the waste. Usually, 50mm fall per metre of pipework will be a good guide. Once done, ensure to fit the centre leg.
3. Determine the appropriate route to the waste pipe from the waste trap inside the tray.
4. Put the tray. Make use of a spirit level to ensure the tray is level to eliminate drainage issues and avoid overflow.
5. Examine the riser legs to see that they’re engaged with tightened up lock nuts.
6. Cover the gaps around the shower tray’s surroundings using the side panel.
7. Use a sealant to secure the shower tray between the wall and the tray.
8. Fix the side panels to the shower tray to conceal the pipework from view.

A thermostatic shower is simply a shower that only needs to be set at a given temperature and it automatically maintains this set water temperature all by itself. Typically, this type of shower functions with the three primary types of water system available in the UK. Thermostatic showers are very popular in residential buildings featuring both mains-fed hot water systems as well as combi-boiler systems due to the fact that they’re both renowned for the ease through which the flow of water can be affected by the actions of other individuals. In some events, this can mean the action of individuals in separate properties. As a result, gravity-fed water systems are usually more reliable, but even at that, thermostatic shower valves are mostly seen as an additional safety feature that’s quite useful should it be required. So how exactly does the thermostatic shower work?

A thermostatic shower makes use of a thermostatic valve to mix both the cold and hot feeds in the right proportion prior to channeling the water via the showerhead. As a result of the link that exists between water pressure and water temperature, this is able to maintain a steady flow. What’s more? Contemporary thermostatic showers can also shut down by itself if it observes that the supply of cold water has reduced to a level that’s considered to be unsafe which ultimately prevents scalding. What thermostatic showers simply does is to store hot water from the mains and then mix it with the right quantity of cold water in order to generate the desired temperature. They’re unlike electric showers which collect cold water from the mains and heat it up to the set temperature.

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.

Are you thinking about updating your bathroom? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how to go about it. Well, when it comes to bathroom remodelling, the process always begins with the drawing of a floor plan. If you don’t know how to go about that, then you’ve come to the right place! In this guide, we’re going to take you through the bathroom floor plan drawing process. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, you can make use of the pencil and paper approach as it happens to be much cheaper than the computer based approach. Plus, you don’t have to be an art genius in school to complete the task satisfactorily.

1. Sketch it out. Create a rough sketch of the space on unlined paper. This should feature all openings like the doors and windows, the spots where the existing plumbing fixtures are located, the location of the electrical lines including outlets, receptacles, heating and cooling pipes and more
2. Add dimensions to the sketch. The next line of action would be to take measurements of the bathroom. With the help of a friend, hold the tape tightly at both ends in order to get the right dimensions. Then, measure the length of the walls, fixtures, windows and mark then roughly on the sketch. Once done, you can go back to double check the recorded measurements for accuracy.
3. Transfer the room dimensions to a sheet of graph paper. At the stage in the process, you should be aware that each 1/4 inch square on the graph paper is equal to 6 inches or half foot. You can start by drawing the bathroom walls and partitions as well as the surrounding areas. Then, add the doors and the direction they swing open and the windows present. Once done, draw the fixtures to complete the floor plan.

Shower screens are available today in various range of shapes and sizes and also hinged and folding designs. They’re primarily designed for use in straights bathrooms as the prevent water from splashing onto the bathroom floor when having a shower. They’re also able to offer a great alternative to shower curtains which can appear dated over time and are also considered not to be as hygienic as shower screens. If you’re looking to have a shower screen installed, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a professional. The latter which is more advisable as professionals are able to guarantee a clean and top-quality job the first time. In this post, we’re going to take you through the shower screen installation process to enable you make a hassle and error free installation. Let’s take a look!

1. Examine the area for pipework. Firstly, you’d have to turn off the water at the mains before starting the task. Determine whether the wall you’ll be fitting to is solid or plasterboard, then use a multi-purpose detector to discover any pipes near to where you’ll be drilling.
2. Place the u-channel. Position the shower screen u-channel against the wall at 40mm depth from the shower’s edge. The u-channel should sit flush with the shower – use a spirit level to ensure that it’s level.
3. Mark the screw holes’ spots once the u-channel is level.
4. Drill the holes into the tiles where the marks have been made then put in the plugs.
5. Secure the u-channel with a sealant along the back of the u-channel.
6. Further secure the u-channel using screws and fixings. Once done, proceed to seal the channel’s bottom to the shower using a sealant.
7. Put the shower screen into the u-channel after placing the rubber seal along the glass screen’s bottom.
8. Secure the shower screen by drilling holes into the frame and using screws with cover caps to finish it off.
9. Seal the outer edges of the shower screen.

It's not a difficult task to replace an old toilet, as long as you can connect it to an existing branch of the soil pipe. You can cut your water usage significantly by fitting a dual flush toilet mechanism.

Step 1

Follow the manual's guidelines, assemble and insert the flush mechanism. Make sure you include the rubber sealing rings where necessary.

Step 2

Place the large rubber gasket into the flush ingang of the pan.

Step 3

Insert the  bolts through the holes in the cistern, using the rubber and large metal washers supplied.

Step 4

Lift the cistern into the pan so the connecting bolts fit through the holes. The threaded section of the flush mechanism should go through the rubber gasket on the flush entrance of the pan.

Step 5

Fit washers to the connecting bolts, and tighten the wing nuts. Make sure you fit these securely - but don't over-tighten them.

Step 6

check if there are no either pipes or cables below the fixing points. Put the toilet in place, and slide the pan outlet into the flexible connector that's attached to the soil pipe. Then drill some pilot holes into the floor at the fixing points. If it's a solid floor, you'll need to make the holes with a hammer-action drill and plug them.

Step 7

Push plastic protective inserts through the holes in the base of the pan, and insert the retaining screws through and into the floor. If the cistern has fixing holes in the back, attach it to the wall by drilling and plugging. Remember to add rubber washers before you tighten the nuts.

Step 8

Connect the supply pipe for the cold water feed, using a push-fit tap connector.

Step 9

Fit the hinge assembly to the seat, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Step 10

Connect the seat to the pan by securing through the holes at the back, using the screws supplied. Then adjust it to sit in the correct position.