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Getting the opportunity to fit your very own bespoke wardrobe in your home is a really exciting prospect. However, when planning to install customizable fitted wardrobe, one factor that turns off most home and property owners is the belief that the bespoke solution is actually a very expensive one. But the fact, in reality, is that so far you’re prepared for any associated costs bespoke fitted wardrobes should not make you break the bank to get one done in your home. So if you’re planning to install this type of fitted wardrobe and wondering about the cost, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’ve put together the price range estimate as well as the potential extra costs to help you plan ahead and get your dream wardrobe without having to worry too much about unpleasant surprises along the way. Let’s take a look!

With some companies you’ll be provided with a fixed price which can’t be negotiated. While prices from other suppliers will usually start within the range of £1400 to about £1700 for the standard wood finish wardrobe, but this can also reach about £5000 or more for high end or premium finishes, without taking the cost of the added extras into consideration. Ultimately, this often implies having to pay out more money for interiors and additional features than you’re likely going to need. Below is a rough guide to the cost of fitted wardrobes from Spaceslide:

✓ The price for a 2, 3 or 4 door sliding wardrobe starts at £452.37.

✓ The price for a 3 door fitted wardrobe starts at £659.07

✓ The price for a 4 door fitted fitted wardrobe starts at £865.77.

Additional costs you’ll have to consider before getting started includes the cost of hiring installers as well as delivery and removal cost.

If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.

Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.

For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.

With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.

An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.

In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.

Are you interested in constructing a porch to your property? Estimating the cost of the project before proceeding will solve a lot of possible headaches in the future.

A porch is great place where you can keep your shoes, jackets, dog leads as well as other items to create free space within the property. Apart from this, a porch also serves numerous other purposes to make it a very good structure to have on your property. Not only is it a good means to put a roof over your head when it’s pouring with rain, but also a highly economical way to add floor space to your home. The question, however, how much would it cost to build a porch?

The price of building a porch is based on a wide variety of factors such as the type of materials required, the size of the porch, location of the structure and lots more. As a result, you should note that this guide provide figures that are only a rough guide that’ll put you on the right direction to make informed decisions.

Depending on the type of porch you choose to build, the average cost range from £1,900 to £2,100 for a uPVC porch and up to £10,000 for a lean to porch. There are other types of porch including the traditional porches ( Edwardian and Victorian porches) costing within a range of £2,500 to £8,400.

The materials required also has a great influence in determining the price of a porch. An aluminium porch will cost between £7,5000 to £8,200, while a brick porch will cost slightly less between the range of £2,000 to £8,000. They can both be constructed either as a front porch or as a rear porch, but due to fewer restrictions on aluminium porch, it can be made a lot larger.

Some individuals who have been in the construction department for many years may not be qualified, that is, they may not have undergone an apprenticeship and/or trade certificate courses, but they might still be very skilled at their work. However, anybody can pick up a sledgehammer and demand themselves a builder lacking any skills or training. The wise thing would be to ask the builder coming to your house about what qualifications they have and what training they have undergone.

Licensing of building practitioners

You can now check if your builder or tradesperson is a licensed building practitioner by using an electronic public register which has a record of every registered builder. Being licensed provides you with an assurance that the builder who is about to do your work has proven his shill to the government and earned his right to be a practitioner. If you wish for certain important building and design work on your home it is imperative that you hire a licensed practitioner, the act is very common when you compare the scenario with when you have to call a plumber or an electrician regarding any work.

In order to become a builder in the UK, you must complete an apprenticeship or an NVQ. NVQ is another popular route to becoming a builder. You can also get your NVQ even when you are working as an apprentice. You can also make it based on any recognised overseas qualification.

All associates maintain a Code of Practice and Conduct which sets the standards for all stages of the building procedure. The Code requires builders to:

• Submit quotes on projects for which they have time.

• Securing the contract with a sufficient insurance cover.

• Maintain honesty and integrity at all times.

• Obey the law and industry standards of conduct.

All members of the construction association must also follow a code of conduct. As a consumer, if you think your builder has breached the Code of Conduct or the Code of Ethics, you can file a written against him or her.

More often than not, several homeowners fail to realize there’s so much value sitting right under their roof - the loft. When a loft is insulated, there are so many juicy benefits that can be derived. It can go a long way to save increase you energy savings and several more functions. Therefore, if you really wish to maximize the space under your home’s roof, you’d have to considering insulating it. So how much would it cost to have your loft insulated? Here, you’ll discover the cost of insulating your lofts so you that you can set a budget and start to plan.

The cost of insulating a loft is actually affordable for several individuals, however, this depends on a wide range of factors such as the size of the house as well as the type of insulation being installed. One significant factor is the insulating material that you choose to install. If done properly, you’d be able to prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the house which helps improve energy efficiency and ultimately, save you some money on heating bills.

If you’d prefer to make it a DIY project and you go for a blanket insulation it costs about £5 per m2. therefore, this will cost within the range of £100 to about £150 for a small home.

For a professional service, you’ll be provided with a quote for both the materials and labour. The amount will be based on the number of insulation required, the company hired, your location as well as the method selected. The price to purchase and install blanket insulation  would be between the range of £300 to £400 depending on the size of your home.

Are you thinking about converting your garage into a new space? Be it a new bedroom, gym, library or playroom, one thing you’ll have to consider before getting started is whether or not you’re going to require a planning permission. Unlike extensions that needs additional space, garage conversion is all about changing the existing structure of a space that’s already available to you - your garage. As a result, these projects are mostly covered by a planning policy that’s a bit different.

For a garage conversion, it’s very unlikely that you’ll need a planning permission. As a matter of fact, only 10 percent of garage conversions has been estimated to need a full planning permission, with the others coming under the permitted development rights. The permitted development rights, however, only provides coverage for home improvements that’s internal which implies that so far you’re not trying to enlarge your garage, you’ll not require a planning permission. But if otherwise, you’ll have to submit an application before commencing your project.

If you’re looking to comply with the permitted development rights, then your project must comply with some specific guidelines. These rules include the following:

• The work should be internal. No plans to enlarge or extend the existing garage.

• You should make sure that the materials used in carrying out the garage conversion is the same with the materials used in building the existing house.

• The building should not be extended.

You may, however, require a planning permission if you’re going to change a detached garage into a living space which could be a bedroom, small annexe or a living room.

Some houses excluded from the permitted development rights include flats, listed buildings, some new developments and most homes in a conservation area.

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.