Building work | Demolition
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Trevor A
Start Date: Immediate
Require a property to be demolished. Size approx: 22mtr across X 12 mtr X 3.2 Require the debris to be removed. What happens to the Gas and electricity supply?
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Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Trevor A
Start Date: Immediate
Require a property to be demolished. Size approx: 22mtr across X 12 mtr X 3.2 Require the debris to be removed. What happens to the Gas and electricity supply?
Chester - CH1
Enquiry from: Abdullah D
Start Date: Immediate
I am planning to open a small News Agent store in city centre. Please email me your working design to my email address.
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Broughton W
Start Date: Immediate
A large car park in need of repair and renewal. The drainage needs to be cleared and reset underneath and then the whole surface needs replacing and marking with parking spaces and disabled bays. We h...
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: Helen W
Start Date: Immediate
Complete removal of old render on all three walls. Modern Pebbledash to replace old render. Protect resin path round house and drive.
Chester - CH1
Enquiry from: Peter G
Start Date: Immediate
Insulation above double garage conversion app 7 meters by 7 meters restricted entrance to loft
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: Helen W
Start Date: Immediate
Remove old damaged render. Repair any underlying damage to brickwork and apply new render to property. Three walls of a semi-detached house.
Chester - CH1
Enquiry from: Steven C
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation may need replacing
Chester - CH3
Enquiry from: Jonathan K
Start Date: Immediate
Looking for an EAVES INSULATION
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: Lauren S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
convert loft into a dormer with fully working electrics and build staircase are you the property owner: owner of the property looking for: single storey extension do you have planning permission: no d...
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: Lauren S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
customer in chester areas is looking to do a couple of projects at the moment, and would like quotes for single storey house extension.confirmed interest via online.please call to arrange appointmentc...
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Jeremy N
Start Date: Immediate
Shower room upstairs, the house is a 60’s build chalet style, with two bedrooms upstairs and the main bathroom downstairs.
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Sophie D
Start Date: Immediate
Hello, We are in the process of purchasing the above property. Planning permission has been granted for a hip to gable loft conversion, with dormer, which involves dropping the ceiling height in two ...
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: David G
Start Date: Immediate
We would like an estimate of a hip to gable loft conversion.
Chester - CH3
Enquiry from: Daniel K
Start Date: Immediate
Dormer loft conversion, require a quotation based on drawings.
Chester - CH3
Enquiry from: Daniel K
Start Date: Immediate
Good morning I am wondering if you would like to quote for a loft conversion (Dormer) that I am looking to complete. I have architects drawings and planning permission in place and ready. Thanks, Da...
Chester - CH2
Enquiry from: Paul M
Start Date: Immediate
Hello,We are considering a roof light loft conversion and would like to speak with you more about our options and costings. Please could you call on ***. Many thanks Paul.
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Nabeel A
Start Date: Immediate
new kitchen, sitting room development, furniture removal. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what type of work do you need to have done: flooring, other do...
Chester - CH1
Enquiry from: Stephen F
Start Date: Immediate
300mm thickness of Loft insulation for mid terrace house estimated 5x7 meters surface area Rolled out.
Chester - CH3
Enquiry from: James B
Start Date: Immediate
repointing, small job half a day. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: commercial how much work would you say needs to be done: small job do you require the bricks to be s...
Chester - CH4
Enquiry from: Connor B
Start Date: Immediate
we are looking to get some extra space in the house and are trying to figure out what is possible with our loft. whether that’s creating a play room or a proper bedroom. the floor space of the loft ...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceMost companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.
How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?
Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!
lTake Square Footage Measurement
• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.
• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.
• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.
lCalculate Drywall Sheets
• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.
• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).
• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.
We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.
More often than not, several homeowners fail to realize there’s so much value sitting right under their roof - the loft. When a loft is insulated, there are so many juicy benefits that can be derived. It can go a long way to save increase you energy savings and several more functions. Therefore, if you really wish to maximize the space under your home’s roof, you’d have to considering insulating it. So how much would it cost to have your loft insulated? Here, you’ll discover the cost of insulating your lofts so you that you can set a budget and start to plan.
The cost of insulating a loft is actually affordable for several individuals, however, this depends on a wide range of factors such as the size of the house as well as the type of insulation being installed. One significant factor is the insulating material that you choose to install. If done properly, you’d be able to prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the house which helps improve energy efficiency and ultimately, save you some money on heating bills.
If you’d prefer to make it a DIY project and you go for a blanket insulation it costs about £5 per m2. therefore, this will cost within the range of £100 to about £150 for a small home.
For a professional service, you’ll be provided with a quote for both the materials and labour. The amount will be based on the number of insulation required, the company hired, your location as well as the method selected. The price to purchase and install blanket insulation would be between the range of £300 to £400 depending on the size of your home.
Garage conversion is a great way to add extra usable space to your home without having to extend your property. A fun fact is that, in the UK if you have your car parked in the garage, you’re in the minority. According to a research carried out by Admiral Loans, just about 33 percent of home owners in the UK store their cars in the garage. For most people the garage is literally a dumping ground that’s never fully utilized as such. In recent times, the garage is now being used to store a variety of other stuffs asides a car which includes garden furniture, tools and appliances, utilities such as washing machine, fridge and freezer as well as food and groceries. These facts show that more and more people are underutilizing their garage when they may actually be in need of more usable space in their property. So why not put into consideration converting the garage into a new space that would be able to serve more purpose?
If you’ve decided to convert your garage, you’d probably want to know the how long the project will take. There are a wide range of factors that can determine the duration of a garage conversion project. These factors include:
• If the foundation needs reinforcing
• If the floors, walls, or roofs are in a bad condition.
• If the ceiling height needs some raising
• If the insulation required in newer builds.
All aforementioned factors will make the garage conversion project take longer than expected. However, in normal situations garage conversions are relatively quick to complete once you start the building works. A single-car conversion will usually take about 3 to 4 weeks to complete depending on the existing garage’s structure.
If you have a loft, then the next thing that’s crucial is a loft insulation. Asides from cutting down on your carbon footprint, when you’re able to install an effective loft insulation you can slash your heating bills by up to £250 per year. What’s more? Besides making your home more energy efficient, it can also increase the value of your property a great deal. So if you’re also considering the insulation of your loft, one of the few things that comes to mind is, what loft insulation is the best to incorporate? In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, this post is going to address this issue and put you on the right path.
In truth, there’s no way to say exactly which type of insulation is the best as all types usually have a different purpose as well as usage. The insulation you choose for your home’s loft is be based largely on the how you’re going to make use of the space as well as any unique challenges you might face given the shape of your home’s loft. Below are some types of insulation to give you a better idea:
When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.
Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.
Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.
Well the reality is, sometimes, neighbours just don’t get along. With several individuals living in close proximity, it’s little surprise they tend to get on one another’s nerves from time to time. However, there’s a difference between having a tiff and being able to transform your house the way you want without having to obtain your neighbour’s approval.
The short and simple answer to this question is, not necessarily. However, you must first educate yourself by thinking about your extension and how it affects the houses around you. We’d strongly recommend you talk proposals through with your neighbour so as to avoid possible conflicts later. There are a number of reasons why your neighbour can protest to your new home extension plans. Let’s take a look!
How To Fit Plasterboard
If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.
To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.
Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.
• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit
• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.
• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.
• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.
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