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Do you want to beautify and increase the value of your home? If yes, a refurb and house extension is definitely a great option to consider. Depending on your home extension project, the value that’ll be added to your home’s resale value varies. However, the cost of completing a house extension project can be huge, so you just might want to consider your financing options. Fortunately, there are various options through which your house extension project can be funded with each having its own pros and cons. Your specific circumstances will determine the one that’s going to work best for you, so let’s take a look at some of the best options to help you fund your project.

• Home Remortgaging

The process whereby a mortgage is transferred from one provider to the other is known as remortgaging. This is usually done to generate funds for a project by entering a more lengthy repayment term commitment when switching. If you want to raise your funds in a quick manner, this process works best.

• Savings

This is a good reason to cultivate a good saving habits. If you’ve been able to save up some mega bucks then you’d probably won’t have to borrow money to finance your house extension.

• Unsecured Loans

If you do not buy into the idea of borrowing more against your property, you may just be able to apply for an unsecured loan especially if you have a good credit record. A secured loan makes use of collaterals like a car or house to serve as a cover for the lender, meanwhile an unsecured loan is based mainly on the credit managing history of the borrower.

• Credit Card

There are some great benefits that comes with financing your small or medium scale extension project with your credit card. Not only does it offer some real lifeline if problems arise during the project, but you can also avoid paying excessive interest on the investment by ensuring your deal has a 0% introductory rate.

The best type of insulation for your property will depend on the type of walls and any insulation that’s already present. It’s usually a good idea to have some form of wall insulation as well as loft insulation, as this helps to prevent heat loss in both areas.

The periods at which noisy work is permitted do vary across the nation because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 provided Local Authorities with the authority to regulate noise from construction sites and similar areas. At the same time as these do differ across unalike councils, the average hours throughout which noisy work is tolerable is usually between 8 am and 6 pm from Monday to Friday. This is usually based on the impression of ‘noisy work’ being carried out, so labours could start earlier to prepare things for the day but then not start carrying out their work until 8 am.

On Saturday’s builders are usually allowed to work between 8 am and 1 pm, but this can differ to some extent with different councils. It does mean that workers can start at the identical time as the rest of the week, but they are generally required to finish a lot prior. On Sundays and Bank Holidays there is not as much of detailed direction on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are decent strategies, it is worth examining your Local Authority website as they can change slightly. Noisy work is commonly described as ‘noise audible at the site boundary’ and it may be the case that workers are there outside these hours but are setting up before carrying out noisy work.

Local Authorities also recognise that now and then it is unescapable to work separately to these hours, such as work on railway tracks that must be done when trains are not running. Though, local councils do have the authority to serve an announcement on individuals carrying out building or demolition works and tell them how the work should be carried out to evade a possible lawful noise irritation.

With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.

External Insulation Installation

lRender Test

• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.

• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.

• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.

lPipework Adjustment & Removal

• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting

• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.

lWindow Protection

• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.

lStarter Track Fitting

• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).

• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.

lInsulation Boards Fitting

• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.

• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.

• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards

lMechanical Fixing Inclusion

• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.

• This is to secure the insulation boards.

lBeading Fitting

• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.

lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition

• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.

lPrimer Application

• Paint on the primer

lFinal Render Application

• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.

lPipework Re-installation

• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.

Adding a garden room to your property is a great way of creating an additional space within your home without having to invest heavily in large house extension projects. And not only does it expand your living space, but it’s also a way to add good value to your home or property. With the various benefits offered by a garden room, most individuals are usually surprised with just how affordable the living space can be. However, just like any other home improvement, the price of a garden room is influenced by a wide range of factors. These factors include the design you opt for whether standard or customized, the size of the garden room, the materials used, the number of fixtures and fittings you want as well as any other special design feature you require.

Asides from the money needed to put up the structure, there are also some common extra cost that’ll also be expended for both the interior and exterior of the living space. For instance, there are some furnitures and fittings that you’d like to put in your garden room and these will also form part of the overall cost. There’s also the electrical connections cost and this will vary depending on the distance of your room, the cables to be used as well as your electrician. For this part, you can expect to spend anything within the range of £850 to £1200 and since it’ll be used all year long, it’ll also require appliances for heating, insulation, electricity and ventilation.

Generally, the overall cost you should be expecting to pay for a modular build garden room will range between £10,000 to £40,000.

Getting the opportunity to fit your very own bespoke wardrobe in your home is a really exciting prospect. However, when planning to install customizable fitted wardrobe, one factor that turns off most home and property owners is the belief that the bespoke solution is actually a very expensive one. But the fact, in reality, is that so far you’re prepared for any associated costs bespoke fitted wardrobes should not make you break the bank to get one done in your home. So if you’re planning to install this type of fitted wardrobe and wondering about the cost, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’ve put together the price range estimate as well as the potential extra costs to help you plan ahead and get your dream wardrobe without having to worry too much about unpleasant surprises along the way. Let’s take a look!

With some companies you’ll be provided with a fixed price which can’t be negotiated. While prices from other suppliers will usually start within the range of £1400 to about £1700 for the standard wood finish wardrobe, but this can also reach about £5000 or more for high end or premium finishes, without taking the cost of the added extras into consideration. Ultimately, this often implies having to pay out more money for interiors and additional features than you’re likely going to need. Below is a rough guide to the cost of fitted wardrobes from Spaceslide:

✓ The price for a 2, 3 or 4 door sliding wardrobe starts at £452.37.

✓ The price for a 3 door fitted wardrobe starts at £659.07

✓ The price for a 4 door fitted fitted wardrobe starts at £865.77.

Additional costs you’ll have to consider before getting started includes the cost of hiring installers as well as delivery and removal cost.

Are you considering converting your garage into a more usable space in your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know if you’ll require building regs before converting the garage. The answer to this question is yes. Although you may not require planning approval to convert your garage into a more usable space, but you’d usually need approval under the Building Regulations.

When re-structuring your garage into a habitable space, the following should be taken into consideration: structural alterations, ventilation, moisture proofing, insulation, fireproofing, escape routes as well as the submission of a building building notice or full plan application to the local council in order to inform them about the planned project.

• Walls

You’ll require an approval if you plan to infill the garage door with a window and a new wall. This is because the garage may have been built of a shallow slab which implies that a new foundation would be needed for the new wall construction.

• Floor

Even though there’s a high possibility that the garage floor is strong enough for domestic use since its designed to withstand the weight of vehicles, you may however need to upgrade to make sure it suitable for both thermal insulation and damp proofing. In addition, there may also be the need to to alter the floor level in such a way that it matches that of the remaining parts of the house.

• Ventilation

According to the Building Regulations requirements, there’s a need for adequate ventilation for each individual rooms which includes garage conversions for general health purposes. What’s going to determine the ventilation level that’ll be required is the frequency at which the room is used. Ventilation can be provided through purge or simply opening the window or via trickle ventilation.