Building work | Wall Rendering
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Heather G
Start Date: Immediate
Back wall coated with plasticised tender and perhaps, pebble dashed.
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High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Heather G
Start Date: Immediate
Back wall coated with plasticised tender and perhaps, pebble dashed.
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Joanne D
Start Date: Immediate
we already have a velux loft conversion but want to add a dormer in our bungalow we don’t need to amend the stair access we just to gain more useable floor space. we have structural drawings and ...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Ian D
Start Date: Immediate
existing insulation topping up are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 do you currently have loft insulationn: yes do you require ...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Mister B
Start Date: Immediate
mr requested quotes for house extension from a builder around high peak. they are considering a couple of projects at the moment.call anytime to arrange appointment to discuss. the information below i...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Mister B
Start Date: Immediate
loft conversion, new staircase, windows, make habitable. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace what are you looking to convert the space into: bedroom/s are you look...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Graham C
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 age of property: 1930-70 are you interested in cavity wall insulation: yes agreed to recei...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Graham C
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall and loft insulation are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 do you currently have loft insulationn: no age of property...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Sue C
Start Date: Less than one month
wooden roof trusses for new gable end extension, 4 meters x 6 meters time scale: less than one month please call to appoint
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Lisa B
Start Date: Immediate
converting garage into addition room, potentially creating an internal door to enter.
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Jack K
Start Date: Immediate
Installing a CDM to all walls of the basement Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Rachael W
Start Date: Immediate
Boarded and plastered, electricity supply, velux, weight bearing
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Dale S
Start Date: Immediate
Two storey extension. Pitched roof. Knock through two walls. Insert 2 rsj's. 6x3 metre long. Remove all chimney stack.
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Chantelle M
Start Date: Less than one month
External wall rendering Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Bedrooms How many walls are you looking to have rendered: 1 Ti...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Dale S
Start Date: 3+ months
Customer visited the myhouseextension.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Two storey side extension. About 6.4mX 3.4m. Possibly knocking through ...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: E S
Start Date: Less than one month
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have planning permission: No Would you require assistance to gain this: Yes Do yo...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: E S
Start Date: Less than one month
two storey side extension with a single storey rear extension Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have planning perm...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Graham M
Start Date: Less than one month
cavity wall insulation on 1st floor extension, 3 walls. total of approx. 35sq metres. Cavity is 60mm Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached How many bedrooms ...
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: Vic F
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myhouseextension.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: External room & shower/wc Are you the property owner: Owner of the property...
High Peak - SK22
Enquiry from: Lorraine A
Start Date: Immediate
Steep garden,needing steps and terraces. Time scale: 1-3 months
High Peak - SK23
Enquiry from: T N
Start Date: Immediate
external wall insulation Time scale: Immediate
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceThe importance of underpinning a house cannot be overemphasized. Firstly, what is underpinning? Well, underpinning is simply the act of reinforcing, repairing, strengthening or improving the depth of an existing foundation by lowering the footing to ensure that it rests more on more reliable and supportive soil. Not only does this method help to strengthen your building and preserve its structural integrity, but it also does increase your property’s value and gives you peace of mind knowing your property is safe. If you’re thinking about underpinning your house, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a reputable structural engineer. The latter is more advisable as the method involves a lot of specialized knowledge, skills and tools to guarantee a successful outcome. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process involved in underpinning a house. Let’s take a look!
To get started, you should know that concrete underpinning features excavating pier footings around the building at about 2 to 3 metres distance between each other. In some cases, underpins can be installed from within the house. The footings of the underpin should go very deep into the underlying soil in such a way that fully supports the weight of the building or structure. Once done, now proceed to attaching the new footing to the building. You can achieve this by excavating underneath the existing footing to make for a stronger prop. Individual prop and pier arrangement is then strengthened using strong steel bars. Once completed, the concrete is then poured.
A professional underpinning contractor will make sure there’s sufficient space left between the existing footings and the new underpins as this space will ensure that the new underpins can be easily used to jack up the house and level it once the poured concrete cures.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
With the ability to add approximately one third of your existing living space ( by converting your old, unused attic) to your home or property without having to let go of your garden, it’s quite easy to see the reason why loft conversion has rapidly grown to become one of the most popular home improvements in the UK. However some homeowners usually shy away from the idea simply by looking at the perceived high cost of carrying out such a project, despite several researches showing that loft conversions offers the best rate of return on initial investment when compared to the other home improvement projects. So exactly how much would it cost to carry out this project?
Just like several other home improvement projects, the cost of a loft conversion varies greatly depending on a wide range of influencing factors. These factors include the size of your home, how old your home is as well as the quality of the fixtures and fittings you want to install. For instance, a high end bathtub alone can cost you thousands of pounds, meanwhile you can also construct a full bathroom suite on just a couple of hundred pounds. However, to give you an idea of the minimum cost of a loft project we’ll look at the most popular types and the minimum cost of each.
✓ Internal Loft Conversion - The most affordable type of loft conversion tends to start from £25,000 and above.
✓ Dormer or L-Shaped Dormer Loft Conversion. These are the most popular types of loft conversion. Dormer price tends to start from £35,000, while the L-shaped dormer starts from £45,000.
✓ Mansard Loft Conversion - This involves replacing the entire side of a sloping roof with a vertical wall and flat roof. It requires a planning permission. The type of loft conversion usually starts from £45,000.
✓ Hip To Gable Loft Conversion - This usually starts from £50,000.
If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.
So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.
• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.
• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.
• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).
• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.
• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.
• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.
• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.
Garage conversion is a great way to add extra usable space to your home without having to extend your property. A fun fact is that, in the UK if you have your car parked in the garage, you’re in the minority. According to a research carried out by Admiral Loans, just about 33 percent of home owners in the UK store their cars in the garage. For most people the garage is literally a dumping ground that’s never fully utilized as such. In recent times, the garage is now being used to store a variety of other stuffs asides a car which includes garden furniture, tools and appliances, utilities such as washing machine, fridge and freezer as well as food and groceries. These facts show that more and more people are underutilizing their garage when they may actually be in need of more usable space in their property. So why not put into consideration converting the garage into a new space that would be able to serve more purpose?
If you’ve decided to convert your garage, you’d probably want to know the how long the project will take. There are a wide range of factors that can determine the duration of a garage conversion project. These factors include:
• If the foundation needs reinforcing
• If the floors, walls, or roofs are in a bad condition.
• If the ceiling height needs some raising
• If the insulation required in newer builds.
All aforementioned factors will make the garage conversion project take longer than expected. However, in normal situations garage conversions are relatively quick to complete once you start the building works. A single-car conversion will usually take about 3 to 4 weeks to complete depending on the existing garage’s structure.
External wall insulation works to keep your home cosy and comfy while also helping to cut the energy bills. However with the great benefits also comes great costs, so it’s actually a logical decision to know whether there are grants out there which you’re eligible for to help you handle the cost of the external wall insulation.
There are grants available for external wall insulation, but rarely will you find one that covers the full installation cost. With the help of the government’s Energy Company Obligation (ECO) scheme, a couple of energy companies assist in making your home more energy efficient by offering grants or free insulation. In certain cases whereby you receive particular state benefits, you may as well qualify for a higher grant that’ll cover more of the insulation cost.
However, if your energy supplier doesn’t offer any grant, you need not worry as you can save as much on energy bill after installation. Here’s what insulation can help you save per year on energy bills:
• Floor insulation can help you save within a range of £30 to £75 each year.
• Cavity wall insulation can help you save about £85 to £280 a year.
• Loft Insulation (270mm) can help you save about £135 to £250 a year.
Generally, the amount you’ll be able to save on your energy bills depends mainly on the type and size of your property, as well as how energy efficient it already is without the insulation. In the long run, your external wall insulation will more than give you back your investment on the valuable project through your savings on energy bills. In other words, whether or not you’re eligible for a grant should never stop you from installing an external wall insulation.
Are you interested in extending your home to create more living space? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much value it can add to your property in order to compare the building costs to the potential value gain. Well, as long as you know what you’re doing, your house doesn’t necessarily have to be a money pit. So what are your options when talking about home extensions and what’s the associated value to be gained?
• Bathroom Extensions
Although you should have it in mind that bathroom extensions isn’t usually that cheap, but once done, it can increase the value of a standard UK house within the range of £12,000 to £15,000. Meanwhile the finishing cost of a bathroom can range from £2,500 to £7,000.
• Single or Double Storey Extensions
Single storey extensions are always huge when it comes to increasing the value of your home - giving about 4 to 7 percent increase. If it goes that far, then literally nothing beats a full spectrum, double storey extension which can give up to 11 percent increase in the value of a property - equalling about a whooping £33,000 for a standard home in the UK.
• Conservatory Extension
With conservatories becoming more and more popular in the UK due to the weather conditions, several buyers are now including it’s availability as part of the criteria for purchasing a house. Wonder why? This is simply because everyone wants to enjoy their garden all throughout the year. As a result of this high demand, adding this type of extension to your house can go a long way to increase it’s value. However, it’s very important to incorporate high quality materials during construction. With glass conservatories offering, on the average, up to £5,000 increase in value, the cheaper PVC alternative offers much less value and can also deter potential buyers.
If you’re currently experiencing some structural issues with your building or property and you’ve heard a thing or two about the several benefits associated with getting underpinning done, you may be wondering if underpinning might just be the answer to your worries. Well, one thing you should when it comes to underpinning is the fact that, while there are some structural issues that may actually warrant an underpinning job, there are also some situations that can not be fixed by underpinning. In this post, we’re going to consider the events whereby underpinning of your house will be required. Let’s take a look!
First and foremost, you should know that underpinning isn’t required for issues related to slab heave. Footing movements which are likely to reverse normally occur when the content of the soil moisture changes unevenly which gives rise to slab heave. This movement results for a reversible effect.
Generally, underpinning is done to remedy problems related with the movement of the footings of a building or property, but as stated above – not all movements require underpinning. So, when is underpinning required? More often than not, a situation that’s resolved by underpinning is the event whereby the footings of a building or structure drops or subside as a result of some reasons that are irreversible. For example, footing movements caused by a footing set on a soft or loose soil which may be irreversible.
In the event whereby the footings of your house haven’t been installed as deep as required during the initial construction, then you will need to have your building underpinned to make it more stable. If you’re also looking to increase the load on your foundation like adding another storey, you may also need to have your house underpinned to support the extra weight added.
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