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There are so many benefits that comes with building a porch in your home premises. It’s an extra space where a lot can be achieved such as drying a dripping wet dog, taking off your dirty shoes or boot and lots more. So if you’re considering to construct a porch, it’s definitely going to be a wise decision. However, before you get started, there’s a need to determine if you’ll need planning permission for a porch. It’s important to take note that planning laws are dynamic and can be updated at any point, so be sure only to use trusted sources only as your guide. If you’re the homeowner or landlord, it’s entirely your responsibility to obtain the right approval for any development project you wish to carry out within your premises.

A Porch can not be termed as an extension and neither is it a conservatory, they’re basically built to the home’s front covering the main entrance using a stone base or a brick. As a result, a porch does not need planning permission due to the fact that it’s covered by the permitted development rights if the specific guidelines for porches are complied with. Below are the instances where you WILL need planning permission for a porch.

✓ If the floor space is more than 3sqm (the wall inclusive).

✓ The highest point has a height of more than 3 metres.

✓ If the porch is situated within 2 metres of a boundary directly facing on to the road.

You may need planning permission if the house is a listed building, designated area or falls under an Article 4 Direction.

In order to build a porch without planning permission, you need to consider all the criteria stated above. You can also visit the Planning Portal website to get more detailed information before getting started.

What Is Plasterboard?

The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.

The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.

The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:

• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.

• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.

• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.

• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.

If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.

The best way to go about converting a basement depends on its current condition and what you’d like to use it for.

If you’re happy with its size and structure, and just want to turn it into useful storage space, then your project shouldn’t be too complicated. You’ll simply need to make sure it’s damp proof and waterproof – either by fitting tanking or a cavity drain membrane with a sump and pump. You may also need to invest in new flooring, fit basic lighting, and plaster and paint the walls and ceiling.

If you’d like to turn your basement into living space, then you’ll need to think about ventilation, insulation and heating. If this involves creating a kitchen or bathroom, you’ll also need to incorporate plumbing.

If you want to extend your basement, add lightwells, or fit windows and a sunken garden, this makes things much more complicated. You’ll probably want to hire an architect or basement conversion building specialist to help you with the design and planning, and you’ll need a structural engineer to help you ensure your property is sufficiently supported.

Adding a garden room to your property is a great way of creating an additional space within your home without having to invest heavily in large house extension projects. And not only does it expand your living space, but it’s also a way to add good value to your home or property. With the various benefits offered by a garden room, most individuals are usually surprised with just how affordable the living space can be. However, just like any other home improvement, the price of a garden room is influenced by a wide range of factors. These factors include the design you opt for whether standard or customized, the size of the garden room, the materials used, the number of fixtures and fittings you want as well as any other special design feature you require.

Asides from the money needed to put up the structure, there are also some common extra cost that’ll also be expended for both the interior and exterior of the living space. For instance, there are some furnitures and fittings that you’d like to put in your garden room and these will also form part of the overall cost. There’s also the electrical connections cost and this will vary depending on the distance of your room, the cables to be used as well as your electrician. For this part, you can expect to spend anything within the range of £850 to £1200 and since it’ll be used all year long, it’ll also require appliances for heating, insulation, electricity and ventilation.

Generally, the overall cost you should be expecting to pay for a modular build garden room will range between £10,000 to £40,000.

It’s often said that a garage conversion can take anywhere between 1 week to 1 month, depending on the size and scope. But many standard conversions without any plumbing can take as little as 5 days. Your contractor will be able to tell you exactly how long your garage conversion will take.

A dormer loft conversion is a type of loft conversion that’s built making use of a roof’s existing slope. In other words, it’s an existing roof’s extension which is constructed in such a way that allows for an additional floor as well as head room especially suitable for lofts lacking good amount of usable space. The dormer loft conversion is simply an addition to the existing roof looking much like a box-like build constructed onto a pitched roof as it creates walls that are vertical to the slope while also being 90 degrees to the floor.

This type of loft conversion is the most common amongst homeowners in the UK mainly because it represents a cost effective means through which you can add an additional usable space to your home or property. The structure extends for the slope of the existing roof and can easily be altered to suit various tastes or styles. Furthermore, if you’re looking for a type of loft conversion that aids to foster reduced disruption to work, then dormer loft conversion is also your best bet. This is due to the fact that the structure is built from a scaffolding made outside a home.

There are different types of dormer loft conversion and the one which will best suit your property will depend on the property type, be it detached, semi detached or terraced as well as the existing roof shape and size. The dormer loft conversion is a popular choice for a lot of homeowners for a variety of reasons. Let’s have a look!

✓ It’s very cost effective

✓ The dormer loft conversion does not require planning permission so far it complies with certain conditions and limitations

✓ It adds an extra headspace as well as floor space.

With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.

External Insulation Installation

lRender Test

• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.

• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.

• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.

lPipework Adjustment & Removal

• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting

• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.

lWindow Protection

• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.

lStarter Track Fitting

• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).

• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.

lInsulation Boards Fitting

• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.

• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.

• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards

lMechanical Fixing Inclusion

• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.

• This is to secure the insulation boards.

lBeading Fitting

• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.

lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition

• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.

lPrimer Application

• Paint on the primer

lFinal Render Application

• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.

lPipework Re-installation

• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.

General construction work should be restricted to the following hours: Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm. Saturdays 8am to 1pm. Most councils advice that noisy work is prohibited on Sundays and bank holidays but you should check with your local council to confirm this.