Building work | Bricklaying
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Maxine E
Start Date: Immediate
Cement in patch of brickwork is cracking. Bricklayer required to repoint it
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Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Maxine E
Start Date: Immediate
Cement in patch of brickwork is cracking. Bricklayer required to repoint it
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Michelle W
Start Date: Immediate
I’m looking for free quotes to have an extension under 3 meters wide and about 9 meters long.single storey thanks
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Michelle W
Start Date: Immediate
What type of property is this for? House What type of extension do you need? Single storey extension When was the property built? 1921 to 1979 How many stories is the current building? 2 Storeys D...
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Adam T
Start Date: Immediate
I would like a quotation on the whole property being externaly insulated and rendered
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Graham T
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
we have just moved in and initially we need some areas cleared and a greenhouse relocated. there are so many options to make the most of this tired garden and orchard that we'd like to work closely wi...
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Mark W
Start Date: Immediate
Outside walls re rendered
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: David R
Start Date: Immediate
Double ‘pocket’ doors not closing properly, one door has come off the runner. Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint Please call to appoint
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Wayne S
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 Do you currently have loft insulationn: No Age of Property: Post-2000 Time ...
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Jack S
Start Date: Immediate
A standard 5x2m integral garage converted into a bedroom with en-suite. The floor will need to be raised. The garage in question will be in Kettering not my home address.
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Todd C
Start Date: Immediate
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Looking Fo...
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Todd C
Start Date: Immediate
Detached double garage with workroom in the loft space and a toilet/utility area on the groundfloor. Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to the...
Blakeney, Lydney - GL15
Enquiry from: Janet C
Start Date: Immediate
2 storey extension to include bedroom en suite bathroom and living room
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceRefurbishing a house brings about a plethora of benefits. These includes an increased sale value, an improvement on your quality of life or even simply to make it more visually appealing. All these are great when you look at them, but one thing that happens to be an hindrance for several homeowners is the cost of getting the project done. You may wish to set a budget, plan and prepare before commencement of the project, but the fact remains that, when it comes to refurbishing a house, nothing is certain. In fact, it’s advised to always expect the unexpected and have a lot of cash in reserve just in case something goes wrong. There are a wide range of factors that can play a key role in the overall cost of a house refurbishment. Minor refurbishment that should cost around £30,000 can easily go up to over a whooping £150,000 for a total transformation. Most of this cost will be expended on labour, and the next most significant expense, which is sourcing materials.
In general, the cost of your refurbishment project will depend on some factors which includes the size of the project, the materials used, the refurbishment or renovation level, the location of the property, the quality of the contractor hired and lots more. To estimate the cost of refurbishing your property, you can follow these simple steps:
✓ Write down a detailed list of all the things that needs to be done per room and try to be as specific as possible.
✓ Carry out a research of the labour cost in your area as well as the raw materials’ cost (here, you can make use of guides such as home advisor).
✓ Add an extra 10 to 15 percent on top of the calculated estimate for uprisings and repairs.
✓ Talk to your contractor to get a more accurate quote.
External cladding will have an impact on a damp problem. However, it’s important that cladding is the last part of a damp treatment, as installing cladding over a damp wall will make the problem worse. Do not cut corners or try to remedy a problem with the cheapest solution, a damp proof course may need to be put in place before cladding.
What is your garage being used for? If your answer is anything besides your vehicle, you’re in the majority in the UK. In the country, according to a research by Admiralty Loans, several home and property owners now use their garage as dumping ground for all sorts of stuffs asides a car. Ultimately, this gives rise to garage conversions as the more or less underutilized space can be converted into a living space which can be more beneficial while also adding more value to the property.
A garage conversion is a fast and relatively affordable route to adding more floor space within your home. It’s basically the act of changing your garage into something other than a storage or a place in which you can park your car. This can be anything from a bedroom to a playroom and anything in between. It’s a great way to provide extra space to allow your family to spread out and have more privacy while still within the walls of your home.
A garage conversion project is a huge one which mostly does not require a planning application so far the conversion is internal. However if you’re planning to increase the garage’s size or change the exterior of your home, or convert your garage into a separate room, then you may require a planning permission before getting started. It’s always wise to consult your local authority before carrying out any work to be on the safer side.
A project of garage conversion’s magnitude is better left to a reliable professional who have the experience when it comes to dealing with building regulations and more. This way, you’d also get to save yourself some headaches and some extra cash which may result from possible costly errors.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
There’s a huge range of different types of loft conversions. The most common are dormer and skylight or Velux conversions. There are also hip to gable and mansard conversions. The type of loft conversion that’s most suitable for your property will depend on the style of roof and the size of your loft.
So you’ve identified the type of garden room you’d like to construct in your property, chances are, you’ve already worked out where to put it and can’t wait wait to start spending valuable time on it. It’s very understandable to be a little impatient with the whole idea considering the numerous benefits provided by a garden, but just before you proceed with your plans there’s the need to first check whether or not you’re going to need a planning permission.
Factors determining whether you’ll need a planning permission includes where you intend to place it, the size of the room, how it’s going to be used as well as your location.
Generally, most garden rooms do not require a planning permission as they are categorized as outbuildings. In other words, you’re permitted to construct one so far you comply with some specific rules and have permitted development rights at your home or in your area.
If you want to build your garden room under permitted development, you have to comply with the following rules:
✓ The garden room shouldn’t be in front of your home or property.
✓ The total area of your extensions, sheds and outbuildings ( which includes your garden room), must not go beyond 50 percent of the total land area surrounding your property.
✓ It must be a single storey that’s less than 3 metres high ( 4 metres for a dual pitched roof). And it must not go beyond 2.5 metres in height if the structure is within 2 metres of your boundary.
✓ The eaves must not go beyond 2.5 metres above ground level.
✓ It must not feature a balcony, veranda or any raised platform
✓ It must not be a self contained living accommodation.
You should note that if your home is a listed building or you happen to live in a designated area, then you might not have permitted development rights.
A lot of an uninsulated property’s heat is lost through the roof and that’s even more alarming, when you realize this figure is up to a quarter of the total heat of the house. Hence, the tremendous importance of preventing this heat loss through loft insulation which will go a long way to help you against spending unnecessary thousands of pounds on heating bill as well as energy loss.
Loft insulation is an effective method to achieve the desired result, however the question is, how exactly does it work? Well, it’s time to find out!
Using either a fireplace or central heating to heat up your home, a large quantity of that heat would be lost through the roof of your home. Generally, heat rises and when it does, there’s simply no way to prevent it - it’s just science. Escaping by both the conduction and convection methods via your roof, the heat escaping through your ceiling, into the loft space and out into the open air outside can only be significantly reduced by laying loft insulation.
Generally, the added layer of insulation works by trapping the heat inside the room below the loft so as to enable the air within your house to stay warmer for longer. What’s more? The layer of insulation also keeps cold air from the outside from entering your home. As a result, you don’t have to heat your home as much in order to achieve the same temperature for each individual room. Over time, just by doing this you can potentially save hundreds pounds. Getting it installed in your home may actually seem a bit expensive at first, but it’s something that’ll eventually pay off.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
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