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It depends on the size and type of extension. Small porches or flat roof extensions are very reasonably priced. More substantial two storey extensions can be expensive. In general, the price is roughly proportional to the amount of space you add to your home.

If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.

So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.

• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.

• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.

• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).

• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.

• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.

• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.

• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.

How To Fit Plasterboard

If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.

To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.

Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.

• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit

• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.

• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.

• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

How To Lay Loft Boards

Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?

Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.

• Get The Right Tools & Equipment

The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.

• Work Out The Area

Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.

• Start Laying

Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.

• Make It Permanent

Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.

If your basement has a cavity drain membrane, it’ll need a pump to move water away from the exterior of your basement and prevent flooding.

Sump pumps can be noisy, but they don’t have to be. Generally, if you have a well-designed pump that’s installed correctly, you shouldn’t find it a problem. For best results, hire a skilled, experienced professional to supply and install your drainage system.

Did you try rendering a wall but it doesn’t turn out the way you would have hoped for? Or perhaps you’ve been watching your wall render gradually deteriorate over time. Regard of your purpose, learning how to repair render cracks on wall is usually a great skill to have with your home maintenance in mind. However, whenever these crack are too large or difficult, we’d recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the wall render repairing process. Let’s have a look!

No matter how solid a building material is, over time it’ll yield to the elements. When it comes to wall rendering it may be a case of too much sunshine or a costly mistake in the application process, but in truth, it cracks just because it cracks.

In order to repair render cracks, you’d have to start with a removal of damaged or cracked render. You’ll have to remove all the render or just a small section depending on the area you’re working on. If you’re able to clean all of the existing render as well as the paint over it all (both old and new), then removing a small section would work better as it makes it look neat and redone. Upon the removal of the existing render, the next important step would be to remove all loose material as well. Once done, you can then leave for up to 2 days to allow any trapped moisture to come out. Unfortunately, if the rains you’d have to wait till that dries too before you proceed.

Once dried, you can buy a pre-prepared render mix which already contains cement, lime and sand. Mix a 20kg bag with 4 litres of water (or check the product instructions and follow strictly), the mix to a fine consistency. Render is quick to dry, so you’d want to apply within 30 minutes of mixing. Make use of a trowel to apply the render on the affected spots and blend with the surrounding area.

Finding a builder nearby can have enormous assistance when it comes to your build. Period on site, their familiarity of local planning permission, constructors’ dealers and other local trades are all vital bits of knowledge that you’ll welcome on site.

It is always wise to walk around in your local area or drive to a site where any construction work is going on. It’ll give you a proper impression of the constructors who are active nearby. You don’t have to like their style of work or the project they are currently carrying out – after all, a builder can only produce what’s on the plans in front of them.

Find a Builder Other Tradesmen Recommend

If you’ve had to call an electrician before or a local plumber and liked their work, you can always ask them if they have any builders whom they would recommend. Maximum tradesmen get used to seeing the similar acquainted names from one place to another in the sites they are working on and every so often has favourites for who they like to work with — and who they see as a good source of work.

Always Talk to Previous Customers

Once you’ve found a builder you would like to work with, ask them for a list of previous customers they have worked with; they ought to be glad to offer particulars if they’re self-assured they’ve done an effective job.

Look for a builder online

A decent place to start looking for builders online is on sites like the ours so that you can find quality tradespeople and see genuine reviews from previous customers. Not all online review sites can be trusted to display real reviews.