Building work | General
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Tony C
Start Date: Immediate
NEED ROOF TRUSSES FOR A 4300 SPAN X 4250 LONG WITH AS LOWER PITCH AS POSSIBLE THE ROOF WILL BE FINISHED OFF WITH PLY AND CORRUGATED METAL ROOF SHEETS
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Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Tony C
Start Date: Immediate
NEED ROOF TRUSSES FOR A 4300 SPAN X 4250 LONG WITH AS LOWER PITCH AS POSSIBLE THE ROOF WILL BE FINISHED OFF WITH PLY AND CORRUGATED METAL ROOF SHEETS
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Charlie B
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation to 3 bed bungalow are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1930-70 are you in a conservation ar...
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Laura H
Start Date: Immediate
i'm planning a loft conversion to create an additional bedroom for a 1-bedroom bungalow in aviemore. i've made some initial drawings with my ideas, but they haven't been checked for structural feasibi...
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Mr R
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation. Graound floor flat 3 external walls 2 long 1 short
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Hugh D
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 Do you require a top up: Yes Age of Property: 1970-2000 Are you interested in cavity wall ...
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Hugh D
Start Date: Immediate
loft insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a top up: Yes ...
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: S
Start Date: Immediate
A simple loft conversion to use the space as an office - floor fitting, sockets, possible window, improved staircase/ladder. Address is 3 Cairngorm Avenue
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Michael S
Start Date: Immediate
Home Owner Single Storey Extension Planning Assistance may be Required Please Call to Appoint
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: Maggie S
Start Date: 3+ months
Looking for insulation for Conservatory roof, lean to, fixed onto soffits. Width 8' length 20', 14 panels. Wooden frame. 3 ply plastic roof. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property ...
Aviemore - PH22
Enquiry from: A T
Start Date: Immediate
Bespoke refitting of 1 3door fitted wardrobe and 2 2 door fitted wardrobe - these latter have difficult to use space with current design. Creation of 2 head height fitted cupboards ( with shelving and...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceIf you’re planning to build a single story house extension, this is one of the first questions that usually comes to mind to help you set a budget and start to make plans. But as simple as it seems, a single accurate answer can not be provided due to the fact that there are several variables that can play a key role in influencing the price of a single story house extension. These variables includes the size, location, design or specification as well as the build route. In this guide, we’ll provide you with a rough estimate that you can work with to put you on the right path.
The main determinant of the cost of a single storey extension is the size of the build, while the next most relevant factor is the quality of the finish you opt for. For a small extension, you can expect to spend a sum within the range of £14,000 to £17,000. Meanwhile for a larger single storey extension, if you opt for a large wrap around the extension with a great amount of glass to be incorporated in both the walls and roof, you can expect to pay a sum within the range of £80,000 to £120,000.
Overall, the average cost of a single story house extension is usually within the range of £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK.
There are some additional costs you may also need to factor in to your extension budget. These includes surveys, architect fees, planning application fee (if needed), insurance and Party Wall Agreement (if needed).
The best type of insulation for your property will depend on the type of walls and any insulation that’s already present. It’s usually a good idea to have some form of wall insulation as well as loft insulation, as this helps to prevent heat loss in both areas.
Are you about to start a new construction job when it’s a heavily rainy period? Or perhaps you’re just interested in knowing how bricklayers work. Well regardless of your purpose, one thing you should know is laying of bricks has a few rules and one of them is not to lay a brick wall when its raining. This is mainly because your structure’s quality and integrity would be heavily compromised if water comes in contact with the mortar before it gets the time to dry. However, with the help of a concrete protective tent, you can prevent water from coming in contact and damaging the mortar. So let’s look at the procedures to follow to work in the rain!
lDetermine The Concrete Protective Tents Required
• Concrete protective tents come in various sizes so you have to know what’s required to get the job done.
• Firstly, calculate the amount of space required to lay the brick wall
• Then, incorporate the appropriate size and number of tents.
lSet Up The Tents
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to set up the tents
• Once installed, the tent should extend past the location for the bricklaying and slope downwards.
l Access The Area
• Inspect the location during rainfall to ensure water is not sneaking through.
lBuild a Lumber Frame
• Use 2 to 4 pieces of lumber to build a frame.
• Set it into the ground depending on the size of your wall
lApply Concrete or Mortar
• Fill up the frame with either concrete or mortar.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to allow the mixture to cure.
lPrepare the Brick Wall’s Mortar
• Mix the mortar for the brick wall construction
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for the process.
When you’re done laying the bricks, you can remove the protective tents once you’re certain the rain has stopped. Exposure to sun and air will speed up the curing process, which is quite important to protect the integrity of your structure.
How To Fit Plasterboard
If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.
To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.
Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.
• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit
• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.
• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.
• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.
With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.
External Insulation Installation
lRender Test
• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.
• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.
• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.
lPipework Adjustment & Removal
• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting
• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.
lWindow Protection
• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.
lStarter Track Fitting
• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).
• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.
lInsulation Boards Fitting
• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.
• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.
• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards
lMechanical Fixing Inclusion
• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.
• This is to secure the insulation boards.
lBeading Fitting
• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.
lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition
• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.
lPrimer Application
• Paint on the primer
lFinal Render Application
• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.
lPipework Re-installation
• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.
Cavity wall insulation is basically the process of installing an insulating material between the two layers of brick making up a cavity wall, either as a retrofit measure or at the time of building. Obviously this is not a choice if you have solid wall, but for those who do possess a cavity wall, it represents an opportunity you may not want to let slide as it is a worthwhile and affordable wall insulation option. Clearly, cavity wall insulation will make your home or property feel warmer, but it also does come with a range of other benefits which is why we’d recommend installing it. In this post, we’re going to look at a number of reasons why having a cavity wall insulation done is a good idea.
Being a strong and durable product requiring little maintenance and expected to last over 2 decades, it’s little wonder resin is now a popular material amongst homeowners in the UK to build their driveways. However, there’s always the issue of the driveway fading, cracking or even becoming worn and tired. So is it possible to repair resin driveways? The answer is yes, a resin driveway can be repaired, however the best approach to use largely depends on the issue being faced. As a confident DIYer it’ll be very easy to do, but if you lack the confidence then calling in a professional for help would be a better option. So let’s take a look at how you can repair your resin driveways.
For cracks, the best reparation approach would be to chisel it out. Once done, then you can proceed to breaking the stones to form a rough edge. It’s important to make sure that the matrix of the stone remains unaffected. Make a new mixture of resin bound stone and pack it in tightly to the gap. While doing this, we’ll recommend making use of a plastic trowel to avoid burnishing. This fresh mixture will then create a smooth and perfect surface by interlocking with the edges. You can follow similar procedure for patches but these are larger holes or damages than cracks and as the name suggests are mostly likely to remain noticeable but will prevent further crumbling of your resin driveway.
For homeowners, who aren’t so keen about the patch repairs, you can opt for an overlay especially in the event whereby the majority of the surface has failed. Although many usually shy away from this approach because of the perceived high expenses, but the fact is that the approach is actually cost effective as you won’t have the need to spend more money in the long run.
With the prices of buying a house skyrocketing, many of us are tempted to building our own house. This is sometimes an excellent choice, but you will first need to understand the costs of building a house from scratch. As per a general estimate, the cost of self-build ranges between £300 per m2 to £3,000 per m2.
As you can see, this is quite a variation in price from lowest to highest. Location is a prime factor in determining the costs. Building a house in London and the South is more expensive compared to other regions. Aside from location, several other factors make up the price.
Self-manage with subcontractors
You hire professionals directly like builders and carpenters. You also buy all the materials yourself allowing you to get the best prices.
Hiring a main contractor with other subcontractors
You will first need a main contractor who will help to create the watertight structure for your house. For the rest of the work, try hiring out subcontractors. Make sure that you buy all the materials yourself to get the best price.
External cladding materials
If you are looking to install other external material other than brick, you will also need to factor in the cost for the same.
Here are some example prices:
• Render on blockwork costs around £25 per m²
• Timber cladding is around £25 per m²
• Hand¬made all-weather tiling costs around £54 per m²
• Rubble walling or flint is around £90 per m²
• Reconstituted stone costs about £48 per m²
• Natural stone is about £75 per m²
Make sure to include these costs when coming up with the estimate.
Roofing materials
Non-standard roofing materials tend to add more to the cost and therefore you will also need to account in for this factor.
Here are some examples:
Welsh slate – £60 per m²
Second-hand slates – £35 per m²
Handmade clay tiles – £65 per m²
Reed thatch – £80/m²
If you choose to add any unique material to your roofing, be sure that you remember to factor in its cost.
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