Building work | Demolition
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Emily A
Start Date: Immediate
We would like to get quotes to demolish the outbuildings behind my dad's house
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Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Emily A
Start Date: Immediate
We would like to get quotes to demolish the outbuildings behind my dad's house
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Carolyn M
Start Date: Immediate
Soundproof a room which shares an internal wall with another room, so that conversations can't be overheard
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Janet K
Start Date: Immediate
My loft has very little, old insulation. I need it redone.
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Dinny T
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Soundproofing in cavity party wall with next door, anything injectable? Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Dinny T
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Is there an injectable sound proofing to insert into the party cavity wall with my neighbours. The cavity at present is empty. I don't want to add extra layers on the outside Thanking in adv ance Ti...
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Dinny T
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Soundproofing in cavity party wall with next door, anything injectable? Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Helen W
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Si...
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Helen W
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Single storey, extension for laundry room. We have a standard build bungalow. Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you t...
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Gill H
Start Date: Immediate
Loft is split into 3 sections. 1st section beeds insulating, pest proofing and boarding. 2nd section us a converted room which just needs insulating around edges. 3rd section just needs insulating. Wh...
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Christopher M
Start Date: 3+ months
Kitchen extension - footprint approx' 3.5 x 1.5 metres - single storey Homeowner Please contact to appoint
Harleston - IP20
Enquiry from: Maureen F
Start Date: Less than one month
I have a very small loft and 2 eaves which I'm sure are not insulated properly, I moved here 18 months ago Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 Do you c...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceRefurbishing a house brings about a plethora of benefits. These includes an increased sale value, an improvement on your quality of life or even simply to make it more visually appealing. All these are great when you look at them, but one thing that happens to be an hindrance for several homeowners is the cost of getting the project done. You may wish to set a budget, plan and prepare before commencement of the project, but the fact remains that, when it comes to refurbishing a house, nothing is certain. In fact, it’s advised to always expect the unexpected and have a lot of cash in reserve just in case something goes wrong. There are a wide range of factors that can play a key role in the overall cost of a house refurbishment. Minor refurbishment that should cost around £30,000 can easily go up to over a whooping £150,000 for a total transformation. Most of this cost will be expended on labour, and the next most significant expense, which is sourcing materials.
In general, the cost of your refurbishment project will depend on some factors which includes the size of the project, the materials used, the refurbishment or renovation level, the location of the property, the quality of the contractor hired and lots more. To estimate the cost of refurbishing your property, you can follow these simple steps:
✓ Write down a detailed list of all the things that needs to be done per room and try to be as specific as possible.
✓ Carry out a research of the labour cost in your area as well as the raw materials’ cost (here, you can make use of guides such as home advisor).
✓ Add an extra 10 to 15 percent on top of the calculated estimate for uprisings and repairs.
✓ Talk to your contractor to get a more accurate quote.
Planning permission is not normally needed for a loft conversion as they are covered by permitted development rights. A conversion company will tell you if you do and help you with this. For more information, see our article about planning permission.
Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.
✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.
✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.
✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.
✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.
✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).
Garage conversion is a great way to add extra usable space to your home without having to extend your property. A fun fact is that, in the UK if you have your car parked in the garage, you’re in the minority. According to a research carried out by Admiral Loans, just about 33 percent of home owners in the UK store their cars in the garage. For most people the garage is literally a dumping ground that’s never fully utilized as such. In recent times, the garage is now being used to store a variety of other stuffs asides a car which includes garden furniture, tools and appliances, utilities such as washing machine, fridge and freezer as well as food and groceries. These facts show that more and more people are underutilizing their garage when they may actually be in need of more usable space in their property. So why not put into consideration converting the garage into a new space that would be able to serve more purpose?
If you’ve decided to convert your garage, you’d probably want to know the how long the project will take. There are a wide range of factors that can determine the duration of a garage conversion project. These factors include:
• If the foundation needs reinforcing
• If the floors, walls, or roofs are in a bad condition.
• If the ceiling height needs some raising
• If the insulation required in newer builds.
All aforementioned factors will make the garage conversion project take longer than expected. However, in normal situations garage conversions are relatively quick to complete once you start the building works. A single-car conversion will usually take about 3 to 4 weeks to complete depending on the existing garage’s structure.
With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.
Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.
External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.
Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.
To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.
A dormer loft conversion is a type of loft conversion that’s built making use of a roof’s existing slope. In other words, it’s an existing roof’s extension which is constructed in such a way that allows for an additional floor as well as head room especially suitable for lofts lacking good amount of usable space. The dormer loft conversion is simply an addition to the existing roof looking much like a box-like build constructed onto a pitched roof as it creates walls that are vertical to the slope while also being 90 degrees to the floor.
This type of loft conversion is the most common amongst homeowners in the UK mainly because it represents a cost effective means through which you can add an additional usable space to your home or property. The structure extends for the slope of the existing roof and can easily be altered to suit various tastes or styles. Furthermore, if you’re looking for a type of loft conversion that aids to foster reduced disruption to work, then dormer loft conversion is also your best bet. This is due to the fact that the structure is built from a scaffolding made outside a home.
There are different types of dormer loft conversion and the one which will best suit your property will depend on the property type, be it detached, semi detached or terraced as well as the existing roof shape and size. The dormer loft conversion is a popular choice for a lot of homeowners for a variety of reasons. Let’s have a look!
✓ It’s very cost effective
✓ The dormer loft conversion does not require planning permission so far it complies with certain conditions and limitations
✓ It adds an extra headspace as well as floor space.
A barn conversion can be a great investment for lots of reasons. When done well, barn conversions can be great at holding their value, meaning you could sell yours for a great price. They can also look fantastic, often with period features coupled with large areas of glazing. This can make them a great place to live, especially if you enjoy being in the countryside.
However, barn conversions do have their disadvantages. They may require extensive renovation work to bring their energy efficiency levels up to standard, which can be very expensive. It’s also important to be aware of their location – they might be on a working farm or close to several other converted buildings.
It’s essential to get a survey conducted before you buy a barn you plan to convert. This can tell you about any structural problems it might have and give you an indication of whether you might be able to get permission to convert it. You can also buy barns with planning permission already in place.
Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!
• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.
• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).
• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.
• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.
• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.
• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.
• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.
• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.
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