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With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.

External Insulation Installation

lRender Test

• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.

• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.

• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.

lPipework Adjustment & Removal

• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting

• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.

lWindow Protection

• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.

lStarter Track Fitting

• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).

• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.

lInsulation Boards Fitting

• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.

• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.

• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards

lMechanical Fixing Inclusion

• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.

• This is to secure the insulation boards.

lBeading Fitting

• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.

lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition

• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.

lPrimer Application

• Paint on the primer

lFinal Render Application

• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.

lPipework Re-installation

• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.

There’s a huge range of different types of loft conversions. The most common are dormer and skylight or Velux conversions. There are also hip to gable and mansard conversions. The type of loft conversion that’s most suitable for your property will depend on the style of roof and the size of your loft.

Does A Single Storey Extension Add Value To Your House?

When you’re looking to construct a single storey extension or perhaps you’re just searching for means to increase the value of your property, this question always pops up. The short and simple answer to this question is a resounding yes, a single storey extension can go a long way to increase the value of your property. Just like any other home improvement, when done right, adding a little extra living space is one of the top things you can probably think of that’ll provide a cool increase in your property’s value. However, before you rush in you must also take note of some factors so you can be certain a single storey extension is the right option for you. These factors include the quality of the build, complexity of the build, cost of the build versus the value gain, ceiling price in the area, finance costs as well as the inconveniences and stress.

Generally, the average cost of a single storey extension can range from £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK. So it’s important to know the value they’ll add to your house before deciding to make such an investment.

The value added to your property will depend largely on the quality and size of your single storey extension. The value is usually calculated by estate agents using the number of bedrooms, bathrooms as well as the floor area. Inside London, it’ll typically be priced at £5,000 to £10,000 per square metre, while outside London should be within the range of £900 to £2,000 per square metre.

Over the years, garden rooms have gradually become a popular choice amongst homeowners as a cost effective way of expanding living space within a home or property. A garden room is basically a living space and a type of pavilion building made from wood that’s well insulated, double glazed as well as electrically wired. It’s however a building which is subsidiary to the main one, built with the purpose of creating an extra functional space within the property. These garden outbuildings are very functional and can be used as a garden studio, office, salon and much more. They can also be incorporated for recreational purposes for evening relaxations, family and friends get-together, lounge or even spa. Other possible uses of a garden room include gyms, pool houses, playrooms, dens, home cinemas and game rooms.

Garden rooms are functional living spaces that are usable throughout the year. And with the rate at which their popularity is growing, you’ll find some companies offering cheap and low quality alternatives featuring shed like construction and felt roof. Garden rooms, on the other hand, are a valuable investment with superior designs and top notch build. They’re constructed in a very similar way to houses with timber frames. Furthermore, they are fully insulated and can also include the normal building solutions such as heating and running water, electricity and many more depending on the requirements of the home or property owner. With the durability of garden rooms being a major objective, they’re typically clad in natural solid timber like Cedar, Larch or Acacia. Materials such as EPDM rubber or cedar shingles are normally used for the roof covering. What’s more? They usually have large expanses of glazing and glazed doors fitted.

External cladding will have an impact on a damp problem. However, it’s important that cladding is the last part of a damp treatment, as installing cladding over a damp wall will make the problem worse. Do not cut corners or try to remedy a problem with the cheapest solution, a damp proof course may need to be put in place before cladding.

Windows or lightwells can be a great way to introduce natural light into your basement, making it a more valuable, enjoyable space. However, they’re not always an essential requirement.

It’s important for your basement conversion to meet ventilation and fire safety building regulations. Windows can be a good way to do this, but they’re not the only option. Stack or mechanical ventilation, or ensuring that stairs up from your basement connect to an exit can be a good alternative.

So, while windows can be a great asset to your basement conversion, if you can’t afford them or they’re not structurally feasible, you can still create a basement conversion without them.

When your driveway is suffering from depression, it becomes unsafe for driving (a danger zone) and ugly - no homeowner wants that! Unfortunately, most driveways won’t hold flat for long as they tend to develop cracks and potholes pretty quickly. Here, we are going to take you through how to fill asphalt driveways’ depression so as to ensure the sinkholes in your driveway poses no threat to you or your loved ones, while also beautifying your property. The approach to be used depends on the intensity of the depression. If its only a few cracks and holes, this can easily be repaired with some equipment. But if otherwise is the case, then calling a reliable professional will be your best bet. In this article, we’ll show you how to repair dips in your asphalt driveway relatively quickly.

✓ Pick a date with warm and sunny weather. This is because if you work in a cold weather, chances are the materials will freeze and hence, unusable. So find a day when the temperature will over 50 degrees Fahrenheit and below 80 degrees Celsius and when there would be no rain. We’ll advise a day between May to October.

✓ Prepare the area. Remove all loose stones, soil, dirt as well as vegetation from the holes. Once done, you can then proceed to washing the area with a pressure washer or sweep with a broom.

✓ Apply a thin mixture of asphalt to the area. Use a flat stirring stick to coat the low driveway area with a thin mixture of asphalt.

✓ Tamp the asphalt repair mix. Purchase the right kind of asphalt to repair the driveway. Fine aggregate asphalt mixture is more suited to filling small holes, whereas the coarse aggregate is more suited to filling larger holes. Apply layers ( about 2 inches each time) of the asphalt repair mix to the sunken area and use a shovel to give it a smooth finish. Once done, simply make the area smooth and protect it with a piece of plywood. Do not walk or drive on the area for a couple of days.

This is a type of loft conversion that extends your roof on the sloping side. It is a great option to go for especially where a hipped roof effectively makes the usable floor area a lot smaller which can be a tricky affair when it comes to putting in a new staircase. Here, the roof is extended from the current ridge in such a way that it effectively fills the gap between them. As a result, this turns the hip (in a hipped roof) into a gable to create space in your roof for a loft conversion - hence the name “hip to gable.

The new gable can be done in whatever way that suits both your taste as well as your property. You can make the new gable construction in woods and then tiled to match your existing roof while you can also go for other options such as brick block pebbledash or rendering. You are also free to fit in a new window into the loft conversion end so as to allow for natural light into the loft space.

A hip to gable loft conversion is mostly found on both semi detached and end terrace buildings, particularly those constructed in the 1930s. Overall, this type of loft conversion is particularly ideal for homes that features a hipped roof and with a sloping roof at the side of the property. Some detached properties can also possess a hipped roof on the side - and as such, a double hip to gable loft conversion can also be deal as it’ll create more loft space for usage. If your home fits into the bill, then you should be aware that once the project is completed, you’ll have plenty of usable space available to both you and your loved ones.