Insulation | Cavity Wall
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Mark W
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation to 1960's kitchen extension.
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Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Mark W
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation to 1960's kitchen extension.
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Jon F
Start Date: Immediate
I’m looking for cavity wall insulation quotes. We have a 50mm cavity .
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Pauline L
Start Date: Immediate
Our 6 by 9 m drive way is a mess and needs TLC. The quotes so far are too high. We want a tidy job for the least amount
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Anna P
Start Date: Immediate
i would like a small porch of 200mm * 1500mm what would be the cost. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have planning permission: no what material are you looking for: upvc what...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Sharon P
Start Date: Immediate
A dwarf wall removing and existing gravel patio replacing with proper paving stones. Also repair of existing retaining wall ( some replacement bricks, re-pointing and plastering Time scale: Immedia...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Kirsty R
Start Date: Immediate
There is currently a single skin kitchen that is 9’10” by 7. Ideally I would like this to be extended to double the size. So 9’10” by 14.
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Mike C
Start Date: Immediate
Take out and dispose of existing mould covered fibre glass insulation in the loft. Supply and install replacement fibre glass insulation 250-270mm Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Pro...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Simon H
Start Date: Immediate
Insulation in a lost area 2mx 12m and insulation in a flat roof 4m*10m It is a bungalow with access to the loft space.
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Robert P
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Loft insulated. Not spray foam Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a top up: Yes Age of Prop...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Rachel S
Start Date: Immediate
Guidance on what is defined by 'floor space' on the form. Is it combined floorspace across all floors or the actual footprint of the house?
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Russell H
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Loft insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a top up: Yes Ag...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: U
Start Date: Immediate
To erect a 6ft. X 2ft.2in. lean-to greenhouse against the house wall.
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Tim J
Start Date: 3+ months
2 story side extension Looking For: Double storey extension Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have planning permission: No Would you require assistance to gain this: Yes Do you...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: P Q
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation Homeowner Supplied and fitted Please contact to appoint
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Charlotte N
Start Date: Immediate
16.3 X 8.6 is the size of the room we need to do, there is already a room completed in the loft this has a dorma window and we would like a dorma run fitted to the room we are going to complete. We wo...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Meg K
Start Date: Immediate
remove existing conservatory and install timber frame 4m X 4.5 m extension
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Audrey E
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a top up: Yes Age of Proper...
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Ivan G
Start Date: Immediate
6+6 s meters, 200 mill thick Homeowner Supplied and fitted Please contact to appoint
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: Emily B
Start Date: Immediate
Home owner Property type: Terrace Work description: Convert a standard attić space into a useable loft bedroom Time scale immediate Contact to Appoint
Chard - TA20
Enquiry from: B C
Start Date: Immediate
Two small rooms knocked into one - floors are at different heights (50mm between the two) floor area is 3M x 3M. Needs to be leveled Homeowner Please contact to appoint
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceTypically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:
✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.
✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.
✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.
✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.
✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.
✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.
✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.
✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.
✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.
However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.
Damp issues on a property are usually generated by a lot of factors such as a poor or broken guttering, condensation and lots more. The question arising here is what is the possibility of External Wall Insulation (EWI) preventing condensation? Not only is EWI a reliable way to reduce condensation-caused damp, but it’s also one of the major reasons property owners in solid wall homes consider thermally rendering or cladding their external walls.
Condensation arises as a result of warm moist internal air hitting a cold surface such as the steaming up of both windows and mirror when having a shower. What happens here is the condensation of the water vapour in the air from a gas to liquid in the process of touching the cold surface - one whose temperature is significantly reduced to reach the dew point. At the dew point, condensation is very rampant, and to tackle this issue you’ll have to heighten the wall temperature in order to convert the moisture to vapour and permit it to pass through the wall. And that’s exactly the job of an external wall insulation!
To get started you must ensure that the walls are clean and dry prior to fitting the external wall insulation. The month of May through to September when the weather tends to be dry and more stable are usually the best period to carry out the project. The external wall insulation will function just like a cosy blanket around the building. Ultimately, changing the feel and temperature of the inside of your home. As a result, the previously cold walls will no longer be cold which goes a long way to mitigate the effects of condensation. Furthermore, when an EWI is installed, the rooms of your home will automatically trap more thermal mass as the heat is saved in the walls’ fabric and released back when the temperature drops.
Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!
To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.
Are you about to start a new construction job when it’s a heavily rainy period? Or perhaps you’re just interested in knowing how bricklayers work. Well regardless of your purpose, one thing you should know is laying of bricks has a few rules and one of them is not to lay a brick wall when its raining. This is mainly because your structure’s quality and integrity would be heavily compromised if water comes in contact with the mortar before it gets the time to dry. However, with the help of a concrete protective tent, you can prevent water from coming in contact and damaging the mortar. So let’s look at the procedures to follow to work in the rain!
lDetermine The Concrete Protective Tents Required
• Concrete protective tents come in various sizes so you have to know what’s required to get the job done.
• Firstly, calculate the amount of space required to lay the brick wall
• Then, incorporate the appropriate size and number of tents.
lSet Up The Tents
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to set up the tents
• Once installed, the tent should extend past the location for the bricklaying and slope downwards.
l Access The Area
• Inspect the location during rainfall to ensure water is not sneaking through.
lBuild a Lumber Frame
• Use 2 to 4 pieces of lumber to build a frame.
• Set it into the ground depending on the size of your wall
lApply Concrete or Mortar
• Fill up the frame with either concrete or mortar.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to allow the mixture to cure.
lPrepare the Brick Wall’s Mortar
• Mix the mortar for the brick wall construction
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for the process.
When you’re done laying the bricks, you can remove the protective tents once you’re certain the rain has stopped. Exposure to sun and air will speed up the curing process, which is quite important to protect the integrity of your structure.
The periods at which noisy work is permitted do vary across the nation because the Control of Pollution Act 1974 provided Local Authorities with the authority to regulate noise from construction sites and similar areas. At the same time as these do differ across unalike councils, the average hours throughout which noisy work is tolerable is usually between 8 am and 6 pm from Monday to Friday. This is usually based on the impression of ‘noisy work’ being carried out, so labours could start earlier to prepare things for the day but then not start carrying out their work until 8 am.
On Saturday’s builders are usually allowed to work between 8 am and 1 pm, but this can differ to some extent with different councils. It does mean that workers can start at the identical time as the rest of the week, but they are generally required to finish a lot prior. On Sundays and Bank Holidays there is not as much of detailed direction on hours, but most councils say that there should be no noisy work taking place. Although these are decent strategies, it is worth examining your Local Authority website as they can change slightly. Noisy work is commonly described as ‘noise audible at the site boundary’ and it may be the case that workers are there outside these hours but are setting up before carrying out noisy work.
Local Authorities also recognise that now and then it is unescapable to work separately to these hours, such as work on railway tracks that must be done when trains are not running. Though, local councils do have the authority to serve an announcement on individuals carrying out building or demolition works and tell them how the work should be carried out to evade a possible lawful noise irritation.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
If you’re about to carry out a loft conversion project, you’d probably be wondering how long it’ll take to complete the task. Well, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions when it comes to loft conversion projects, however, providing a set timeframe for completion of such projects is impossible as all loft conversions vary. There are different factors that can determine the duration of your project. These factors include, the materials to be used, the type of the proposed loft conversion, the kind of staircase you’ll like to have installed, the number of windows included, the number of rooms to be added as well as a number of other influencing factors. As a result of these variables, the milestones and timings provided are only to be taken as guidelines. If you’d really like to have a set date, you can get in touch with a professional for help.
Generally, it’ll take up to 8 weeks to complete a loft conversion project.
✓ The first week activities will include putting up scaffolding, receiving the first materials for the build and creating an opening in the roof to gain access to the loft space.
✓ In the second week, the structure of the roof will be ammended and more support added.
✓ Third week, the floor joists will be fitted, building of the loft conversion will start, completion of the external roof works and commencement of plumbing and electric works.
✓ Fourth week, complete the building, construct the loft floor, fit the roof windows, insulation, ventilation and internal stud walls.
✓ Fifth week, apply plaster and plasterboard to the room walls, create a staircase opening and fit the new staircase.
✓ Sixth week, plaster the staircase area, complete plumbing and electrical works, hang the doors, fit skirting, handrails and bannisters and start decoration.
✓ Seventh week, complete the decoration and clean and wipe out all wastes.
✓ Eight week, complete all the remaining tasks.
How To Convert Your Loft Into A Room
The loft is the space on top of a home that’s most often ignored by home owners due to having to consider the space’s configuration, the lighting as well as energy efficiency. However, when successfully converted into a room, it can serve several purposes which would even add more value to your property. So how can you convert your loft into a room? Let’s have a look.
• Take Into Account The Size Of Your Loft
The size of your loft is a major determinant of the type of room it can be converted into. A small-sized loft there’s a chance it can still be converted into an extra bathroom or home office while bigger lofts can be converted into an additional bedroom. The minimum head height is 2.3m, if your loft is lower than this, you’d have to get a planning permission to detach some parts of the room for extension.
• Include A Skylight
When a loft is poorly designed, the room become dark, shady and airless. Adding a skylight to your loft will let in fresh air, deliver better ventilation and more light.
• Insulate Your Loft
Loft insulation will not only prevent heat from escaping through the roof, but also lead to an improved energy efficiency which ultimately helps you save up on your heating bills.
• Use Modern Colourization
When you use bright, neutral and modern colours to paint your loft, you’re adding that elegant look to the space. As a result, the loft looks a lot more attractive and comfortable by the time you’re done with the conversion.
The conversion of your loft into a room can be a very tedious task if you wish to do it by yourself. We’d recommend you employ a seasoned professional for help in order to ensure the best results and also to avoid making costly mistakes.
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