Building Maintenance
London - NW2
Enquiry from: Block R
Start Date: Immediate
Air conditioning, building maintenance, gas boiler replacement
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London - NW2
Enquiry from: Block R
Start Date: Immediate
Air conditioning, building maintenance, gas boiler replacement
Morden - SM4
Enquiry from: Tushar T
Start Date: Immediate
Repair loose composite cladding that has come away from the wall. Needs fixing back securely
London - SW16
Enquiry from: Katherine S
Start Date: Immediate
Need a set of stairs up to attic full install. would like the stairs to be the right size and height that would allow the attic to act as a second bedroom
West Wickham - BR4
Enquiry from: Amy W
Start Date: Immediate
Air conditioning, building maintenance
London - E5
Enquiry from: David G
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Like full basement works
Chertsey - KT16
Enquiry from: Nick B
Start Date: Immediate
Repairs to external low wall, will require laying of c 12 bricks in total
London - W5
Enquiry from: Daniel O
Start Date: Immediate
External rendering of the whole house
Staines-upon-Thames - TW19
Enquiry from: John I
Start Date: Immediate
Problem with damp mould in bedrooms coming from the loft after damage from squirrels/rats. I need it checking & repairing
London - SW12
Enquiry from: Anne T
Start Date: Immediate
Acoustic insulation around pipes running from upstairs bathroom in box in downstairs bedroom
Caterham, Whyteleafe - CR3
Enquiry from: Ryan E
Start Date: Immediate
Side gable needs repairing with some patching required
Surbiton - KT5
Enquiry from: Luke L
Start Date: Immediate
Addition of a staircase, and make the cellar dry (not damp) so it can be used for storage
London - NW11
Enquiry from: Becky B
Start Date: Immediate
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Edgware - HA8
Enquiry from: Donna H
Start Date: Immediate
I need someone who cam remove mould
London - NW11
Enquiry from: Becky B
Start Date: Immediate
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London - E5
Enquiry from: Anne D
Start Date: Immediate
Ms lives in the london area and would like a call to discuss options
Chislehurst - BR7
Enquiry from: Barry W
Start Date: Immediate
Some external render repairs then to discuss options for external insulation
London - W5
Enquiry from: Julie A
Start Date: Immediate
Front wall rendering/maybe new front wall
Southall - UB1
Enquiry from: Lisa A
Start Date: Immediate
I need a extension planing, design and build
London - E16
Enquiry from: Walter H
Start Date: Immediate
Removal of existing front door and frame and fitting and installing new door and frame. I just need the labour from you and a fensa certification for the installation. I will supply the door and frame
New Malden - KT3
Enquiry from: Murugathas S
Start Date: Immediate
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How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceFitted wardrobes are the best choice of wardrobe for most households and they’re a popular option for several homeowners for a good reason. Not only are they able to efficiently maximize your space and fit into any space no matter how awkward, but they can also be customized to fit your personal needs to feature custom lighting and many more. So if you’re planning to have one fitted but on a tight budget, you’d probably be wondering how you can install a fitted wardrobe in an alcove by yourself. This is a relatively easy task if you’re attentive to the details, however, if you’re not confident enough to pull this off, we’d advise that you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help.
To construct a fitted wardrobe in an alcove, simply follow these steps:
✓ Take a measurement of the available space including the length, breadth and width.
✓ Sketch out what you want the wardrobe to look like while also staying within the measurements. Here, you’ll have to be particular about everything like the drawers, shelves etc.
✓ Build the frames upon which every other construction would be made.
✓ Attach the frames to the wall and floor. Make use of a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill the holes if its a concrete floor.
✓ At this stage, you’ll have to start building your shelves in accordance to the number you’ll need.
✓ Based on the design in step 2 above, you’ll have to add the door at this stage. This is however optional as some homeowners prefer door-less wardrobes.
✓ The final step is to paint the the finished wardrobe to your taste with your choice of colour.
Is your driveway damaged or starting to show some signs of cracks and gaps? If yes, then you’d probably be thinking of repairing it before it gets even worse. Repairing a driveway is largely an unknown process but also a very tedious task as well. So if you’re looking to hire a professional for help, just how much is the repair going to cost? In this article, we’re going to look at the various factors that can determine the cost of a driveway repair.
In the UK, the average price of repairing a driveway is usually within the range of £1,400 to £1,800, where as the normal price of a driveway repair will range between £700 to £2,400. although some small repairs tasks can be as low as £250, while huge driveway repairs can skyrocket to about £4,200.
However, in general, the overall cost of repair a driveway can not be determined as each driveway is unique with their special repair needs. The factors that can influence the price of a driveway repair includes the material used, the perimeter of the driveway as well as the condition of the foundation. The only factor that’s not unique to any one driveway is the materials used, so let’s take a look at the differences in price using the based on the various types of materials available.
✓ Concrete. The average cost of repairing a concrete driveway is usually between £250 to £3,200. Have it in mind at most times the price of fixing an overly damaged driveway can be more than the cost of buying a new one.
✓ Asphalt. The average cost of repairing an asphalt driveway is usually between £750 to £2,800.
✓ Brick. The average cost of repairing a brick driveway is usually between £700 to £1,700.
✓ Cobblestone. The average cost of repairing a cobblestone driveway is usually between £500 to £1,600.
With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.
External Insulation Installation
lRender Test
• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.
• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.
• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.
lPipework Adjustment & Removal
• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting
• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.
lWindow Protection
• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.
lStarter Track Fitting
• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).
• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.
lInsulation Boards Fitting
• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.
• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.
• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards
lMechanical Fixing Inclusion
• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.
• This is to secure the insulation boards.
lBeading Fitting
• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.
lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition
• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.
lPrimer Application
• Paint on the primer
lFinal Render Application
• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.
lPipework Re-installation
• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.
In a nutshell, a mortgage loan is for the acquisition of an asset, so lenders won’t tend to give you anything else in a mortgage that is going to cover your home renovation costs. When you are applying for your mortgage, your provider will examine the price of your new household. For example, if you’re planning to buy a property for £200,000, but you need another £50,000 to help improve it, you’ll find that your lender might turn you down.
Essentially, with any mortgage loans that you take out on your possessions, the bank or creditor theoretically owns your home till you’ve entirely paid off your loan, which is why it is very unlikely that you will get extra funds from them. There are some mortgage providers who will be willing to add on some building costs, but it is entirely up to you whether to choose it or not.
With most mortgages, banks and other lenders will usually give you a maximum of 95% of what you purchased your property for. That means, that even if you contemplate the household has the probability to be valued at so much more, you’ll have to find an alternative way of paying for the developments you have in attention. So, if the accumulation of extra funds on to your mortgage loan is out of the question, you’ll need to find additional ways of paying for the home developments.
It is well and good if you have the cash saved up, or else, you can explore other payment options which your bank or lender may be able to help you with. There are several methods by which you can collect the cost to pay for the improvements, from personal loans to credit cards or even overdrafts, there are tons of ways to lending money. Keep in mind these are all forms of debt so keep an eye out for the interest rates when you are repaying.
If you’re considering rendering your house or property, then you’d most likely want to know whether or not applying for a planning permission will be needed. In several cases, planning permission will not be required for the maintenance, repair as well as replacement of the existing render on your building. These activities are covered by what’s called “Permitted Development Rights, which allows you to carry out some activities without having to apply for a planning permission but always subject to following some strict guidelines. For rendering, as long as the material (render) possesses an identical appearance to those existing on the house as well as same colour, then you will not require a planning permission. However, there are a number of projects that have been highlighted in which a planning permission would be required. These includes the following:
✓ Re-rendering in a colour that different from the original one used on the house or building.
✓ Rendering over brickwork which was not originally covered.
✓ Rendering over pebbledash
✓ Removing pebbledash and replacing it with render.
Another exception to the Permitted Development rights are for houses in conservation areas, national parks or areas of outstanding national beauty.
Although, you wouldn’t normally require to submit a planning application for approval before you apply render, but in truth it’s actually a bit of a grey area which isn’t totally clear and doesn’t allow for much freedom or creativity. And due to this fact, homeowners who wants an absolute peace of mind may opt to apply for planning permission just in case. It’s also worth noting that whether or not a planning permission is required, a huge rendering work will need to comply with building regulations which includes the need to insulate walls on the inside or outside as part of the work on several older properties .
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
Does A Single Storey Extension Add Value To Your House?
When you’re looking to construct a single storey extension or perhaps you’re just searching for means to increase the value of your property, this question always pops up. The short and simple answer to this question is a resounding yes, a single storey extension can go a long way to increase the value of your property. Just like any other home improvement, when done right, adding a little extra living space is one of the top things you can probably think of that’ll provide a cool increase in your property’s value. However, before you rush in you must also take note of some factors so you can be certain a single storey extension is the right option for you. These factors include the quality of the build, complexity of the build, cost of the build versus the value gain, ceiling price in the area, finance costs as well as the inconveniences and stress.
Generally, the average cost of a single storey extension can range from £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK. So it’s important to know the value they’ll add to your house before deciding to make such an investment.
The value added to your property will depend largely on the quality and size of your single storey extension. The value is usually calculated by estate agents using the number of bedrooms, bathrooms as well as the floor area. Inside London, it’ll typically be priced at £5,000 to £10,000 per square metre, while outside London should be within the range of £900 to £2,000 per square metre.
This is a type of loft conversion that extends your roof on the sloping side. It is a great option to go for especially where a hipped roof effectively makes the usable floor area a lot smaller which can be a tricky affair when it comes to putting in a new staircase. Here, the roof is extended from the current ridge in such a way that it effectively fills the gap between them. As a result, this turns the hip (in a hipped roof) into a gable to create space in your roof for a loft conversion - hence the name “hip to gable.
The new gable can be done in whatever way that suits both your taste as well as your property. You can make the new gable construction in woods and then tiled to match your existing roof while you can also go for other options such as brick block pebbledash or rendering. You are also free to fit in a new window into the loft conversion end so as to allow for natural light into the loft space.
A hip to gable loft conversion is mostly found on both semi detached and end terrace buildings, particularly those constructed in the 1930s. Overall, this type of loft conversion is particularly ideal for homes that features a hipped roof and with a sloping roof at the side of the property. Some detached properties can also possess a hipped roof on the side - and as such, a double hip to gable loft conversion can also be deal as it’ll create more loft space for usage. If your home fits into the bill, then you should be aware that once the project is completed, you’ll have plenty of usable space available to both you and your loved ones.
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