Garage Conversion
Shipley - BD18
Enquiry from: Elizabeth B
Start Date: Immediate
Basic garage refurb to utility room. New doors and trim, ridge tiles, floor, storage etc. Already has power, water and drainage
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Shipley - BD18
Enquiry from: Elizabeth B
Start Date: Immediate
Basic garage refurb to utility room. New doors and trim, ridge tiles, floor, storage etc. Already has power, water and drainage
Bradford - BD15
Enquiry from: Farhat A
Start Date: Immediate
Can some come and give us a quote for a side room the walls are made of stone but not proper one want to make is like a useable room
Leeds - LS7
Enquiry from: Celia F
Start Date: Less than one month
Following jet spray cleaning to the drive there are a couple of places where the resin surface has broken down and need repair. whilst this is not a big job it needs repairing and it's not something i
Huddersfield - HD4
Enquiry from: Dania I
Start Date: Immediate
Fix the grout between tiles on driveway
Dewsbury - WF13
Enquiry from: Irfan M
Start Date: Immediate
Single storey side extension. Two rooms and small guest toilet room and sink . Budget £25000
Keighley - BD22
Enquiry from: Raffaele F
Start Date: Immediate
Need someone to supply and fit ECO DRAIN size approx 1.50mt across x5mt down
Leeds - LS12
Enquiry from: Asghar S
Start Date: Immediate
New kitchens & bathrooms, Fire safety compliance (FD30 doors, alarms, compartmentation) Plumbing, electrics, plastering, joinery All works to building control standards
Leeds - LS20
Enquiry from: Sharon W
Start Date: Immediate
We currently use our integral garage as a utility but although plumbing and electrics in the garage it needs work to make it a better set up. we dont want to change the outside look so leave the garag
Dewsbury - WF13
Enquiry from: Daanyaal A
Start Date: Immediate
3x4m exentension to dining room
Huddersfield - HD2
Enquiry from: WASEEM U
Start Date: Immediate
I need a front porch installation with a base foundation
Bradford - BD3
Enquiry from: Shazad A
Start Date: Immediate
Looking for roof insulation quotes - any time now
Huddersfield - HD3
Enquiry from: Palvinder S
Start Date: Immediate
Hi my dry stone wall has been hit by a car. I need an experienced trade person to rebuild the wall. This is an insurance job so best quote and time line will win the work which is significant
Bradford - BD8
Enquiry from: Sabeela B
Start Date: Immediate
Submit your free quote for rated tradespeople
Bradford - BD12
Enquiry from: Gavin C
Start Date: Immediate
Thank you
Huddersfield - HD4
Enquiry from: Asim H
Start Date: Immediate
Loft conversion with a bathroom
Bradford - BD7
Enquiry from: Mohammed N
Start Date: Immediate
Need hall way and three rooms wall paneling need advice and recommendations
Holmfirth - HD9
Enquiry from: Peter N
Start Date: Immediate
(address removed) refurbishment for equity release
Keighley - BD22
Enquiry from: Richard W
Start Date: Immediate
Single storey extension to existing room, approx 13sqm
Heckmondwike - WF16
Enquiry from: Nayir S
Start Date: Immediate
The waste pipe in my house is within the cavity. i need it moving to the outside of the wall. there is a toilet in the loft conversion with a toilet also. need it done asap
Wakefield - WF4
Enquiry from: Thomas W
Start Date: Immediate
My garage has several cracks in to due to what I think is root damage. The damage is from a tree owned by the council. I am looking for a quote to send to the councils insurance company for the price
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2026 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceIt can be very hurtful when you’re looking to get a house and then identifies one that’s almost perfect, but that one thing that’s lacking is significant enough to prevent you from making an offer. For instance, you may like neighbourhood, the lot’s size, the number of bedroom and lots more. However, the only thing that’s holding you from making an offer is the outdated kitchen. This is the point where you wonder whether a mortgage can include the cost of renovation. In this article, we’re going to give you a good insight into this and more. Let’s have a look!
One of the major things your lender will put into consideration when you apply for a mortgage is the price of the property in question. For instance, so you’ve found your “almost perfect home for let’s say £400,000 and the cost of your intended renovation work runs up to about £150,000. In this event, you’re definitely going to find lenders who wouldn’t be too keen to let go of their cash. And that’s mainly due to the fact that lenders are only able to afford you, at best, 95 percent of the purchasing price. In other words, if you really want the house, you’ll have to finance it yourself no matter how much potential you think the house possesses.
This, however, does not mean that you can’t find some mortgage lenders who’ll allow for building costs. They exist, but this will mostly take place when the work is complete and the property is revalued. You may also be lucky enough to get a purchase plus improvements mortgage which allows you to renovate now and pay off the renovations over time at a better interest rate than other loan types.
How To Lay Loft Boards
Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?
Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.
• Get The Right Tools & Equipment
The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.
• Work Out The Area
Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.
• Start Laying
Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.
• Make It Permanent
Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.
Do I Need Planning Permission For A Loft Room?
The answer to this question is maybe. Generally, loft rooms are covered under “Permitted Development which means you won’t need to apply for a planning permission to build a loft room. This is like an advance planning permission provided by local authorities to allow some particular building works to be done such as loft conversions, rear extensions and more. When you’re covered by a “Permitted Development, you’re given the free range to oversee your home’s development without much interference from the regulations or the council. However, for permitted development to apply, there are some specific criteria that must be met. Therefore, if your loft room does not meet the following requirements given below, then you must complete a planning application before proceeding.
• In a terraced house, the converted loft space must not be more than 40 cubic metres.
• In a detached building or semi detached house, the converted loft space must not be more than 50 cubic metres.
• The existing roof slope at the front of the house must cover the extension made.
• The extension should not increase the height of the roof in any way.
• Verandas, balconies and any other structures of this nature must not be included in the extension’s plan.
• The side facing window openings should be at a minimum of 1.7 metres above the ground. The windows must be obscured as well.
• The roof extension should be set back as far as practically possible. It should be at a minimum of 20cm from the current eaves.
• The roof extension should not overhang the house’s roof or it’s wall.
• The materials to be incorporated must be the same or at least similar to what you already have on the house’s exterior.
When your driveway is suffering from depression, it becomes unsafe for driving (a danger zone) and ugly - no homeowner wants that! Unfortunately, most driveways won’t hold flat for long as they tend to develop cracks and potholes pretty quickly. Here, we are going to take you through how to fill asphalt driveways’ depression so as to ensure the sinkholes in your driveway poses no threat to you or your loved ones, while also beautifying your property. The approach to be used depends on the intensity of the depression. If its only a few cracks and holes, this can easily be repaired with some equipment. But if otherwise is the case, then calling a reliable professional will be your best bet. In this article, we’ll show you how to repair dips in your asphalt driveway relatively quickly.
✓ Pick a date with warm and sunny weather. This is because if you work in a cold weather, chances are the materials will freeze and hence, unusable. So find a day when the temperature will over 50 degrees Fahrenheit and below 80 degrees Celsius and when there would be no rain. We’ll advise a day between May to October.
✓ Prepare the area. Remove all loose stones, soil, dirt as well as vegetation from the holes. Once done, you can then proceed to washing the area with a pressure washer or sweep with a broom.
✓ Apply a thin mixture of asphalt to the area. Use a flat stirring stick to coat the low driveway area with a thin mixture of asphalt.
✓ Tamp the asphalt repair mix. Purchase the right kind of asphalt to repair the driveway. Fine aggregate asphalt mixture is more suited to filling small holes, whereas the coarse aggregate is more suited to filling larger holes. Apply layers ( about 2 inches each time) of the asphalt repair mix to the sunken area and use a shovel to give it a smooth finish. Once done, simply make the area smooth and protect it with a piece of plywood. Do not walk or drive on the area for a couple of days.
Due to the fact that we live in a country (the UK) with so much history as well as architectural beauty, there’s a need to have what’s commonly called “Conservation Area. A Conservation Area is basically an area which is designated by the local authority and is established in order to protect and enhance areas of historical and architectural interest which includes both rural and urban areas. Therefore, when it comes to refurbishment project in a conservation area, there’s usually a lot of things that needs to be put into consideration as well as hurdles to scale in order to make alterations to your property without any interruptions from the law.
In general, all properties in a conservation area have strict regulations governing the outlook of the houses, as this plays a major role in the appearance of the area as a whole. As a result, if you wish to bring down a building, fence, wall or even railing and the likes, you’ll need to obtain prior consent before you proceed. An easy way to go about any refurbishment plan is to to ensure the usage of exactly the same materials that exists in the current house. When you abide by the rules, you’ll be in a more favourable position to acquire the needed prior consent.
The short and simple answer to the question is yes, you can refurbish a house in a conservation area but subject to the approval of the local authority through a planning permission. And when it comes to submitting a planning application for approval, some are aspects will usually be subjected to more intense examinations than the others. Hence, the need to make sure that your refurbishment plans are all friendly in a similar way to the neighbouring buildings and environment.
Are you considering a dormer loft conversion for your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much it costs. Unfortunately, due to the several variables and influencing factors, a precise answer can not be provided for all dormer loft conversions. In this article we’ll give you a vague idea of the general cost so you can set a more realistic budget and start planning.
There are three main types of loft conversion which includes the Velux, Dormer, and Mansard. Out of the three types, the dormer happens to be the most common type and possesses a small flat roofed extension with a window. The dormer loft conversion will usually cost within the range of £25,000 to £30,000.
The price for a smaller dormer loft conversion, mid range dormer loft conversion and large scale dormer loft conversion will be at £2,000 to £7,000, £10,000 to £30,000 and £40,000 to £60,000 respectively. However, you should take note that the prices given are all based on varying influencing factors such as the type of installation that is selected, the type of the rood, en suite conversion as well as other customization. Changes in price can be as a result of the materials required and the extra time per labour that’s needed to complete this home improvement project by the tradesmen employed.
Furthermore, a dormer loft conversion average cost will also depend on the type of dormer you opt for. Here is a list of the most common applications:
✓ Blind dormer loft conversion - £3,200 to £4,400
✓ Recessed dormer - £1,300 to £1,850
✓ Barrel roof dormer - £3,000 to £4,600
✓ Gable dormer - £5,500 to £7,500
✓ Hipped roof dormer - £5,600 to £6,660
✓ Pedimented dormer - £12,700 to £23,100
✓ Flat roof dormer loft conversion - £13,800 to £21,600
How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall
Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!
lAttach Furring Strips
• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.
• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer
• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.
• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.
• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.
lApply Plasterboard
• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.
• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.
• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.
• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.
• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.
• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.
• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.
Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.
Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.
If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!
For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.
In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.
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