Garden | Sheds
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Charles B
Start Date: Immediate
Flat shed roof, 3.5m x 2.5m needs refelting. Please quote price and lead time. Thank you.
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Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Charles B
Start Date: Immediate
Flat shed roof, 3.5m x 2.5m needs refelting. Please quote price and lead time. Thank you.
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Claire W
Start Date: Immediate
our garden is on a slope and we would part of it levelling to allow us to put a shed there. it would be a medium size shed. are you the property owner: owner property type: terrace do you have a: medi...
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Chris I
Start Date: Immediate
customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: terrace, work description: landscaping are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terr...
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Gabriela C
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Terrace, Work description: Foundation for a new shed
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Suman I
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Suman I
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Other Forms: None Please call to appoint
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Ofer M
Start Date: Less than one month
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Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Alan C
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Jobbing and day rate carpenter/ decorator required to repair and redecorate a clock tower located above two floors or offices in the middle of a pitched roof. Scaffolding required Time scale: 1-3 m...
Chesham - HP5
Enquiry from: Candice C
Start Date: Immediate
Home owner Waterproofing of existing shed and fitting new door Time scale immediate Contact to Appoint *
High Wycombe - HP13
Enquiry from: Patrick L
Start Date: Immediate
we rent out this property and intend in the long term to replace the entire decking however we want to repair a small badly damaged area before the end of october - i have pictures if required. are yo...
High Wycombe - HP13
Enquiry from: Patrick L
Start Date: Immediate
we rent out this property and intend in the long term to replace the entire decking however we want to repair a small badly damaged area before the end of october - i have pictures if required. are yo...
Maidenhead - SL6
Enquiry from: Simon J
Start Date: Immediate
Installation of this shed from Project Timber. No base required. Hobbyist “Tall” H100 Apex Shed – Windowless – Pressure Treated Tongue and Groove
High Wycombe - HP14
Enquiry from: Mark F
Start Date: Immediate
my small shed is located between two brick garages. it needs its roof and floor replacing due to water damage. it’s approx 8 feet by 4 feet. the walls and door are sound. are you the property owner...
Marlow - SL7
Enquiry from: Fox S
Start Date: Immediate
main wall length is 150inches (12.5foot) which starts to slightly slant just above halfway high. as well, attached a small wall next to it, which is mainly a door frame measuring at a length of 45inch...
Aylesbury - HP17
Enquiry from: Srilatha A
Start Date: Immediate
Need decking for glass room
Aylesbury - HP17
Enquiry from: Srilatha A
Start Date: Immediate
Need decking for glass room
Maidenhead - SL6
Enquiry from: Steve G
Start Date: Immediate
Dismantle of shed and possibly new base depending if required
Princes Risborough - HP27
Enquiry from: Peter F
Start Date: Immediate
kitchen fitter to repair/adjust (20 years old) magic corner that has recently gone a bit wonky so door doesnt close properly
Marlow - SL7
Enquiry from: David D
Start Date: Immediate
Replace old sleeper plant frames and price for new decking area
Marlow - SL7
Enquiry from: David D
Start Date: Immediate
Replace old sleeper plant frames and price for new decking area
Do you have a need for a carpenter in or around your house? If yes, then one of the first things you’d probably want to know is the exact amount it would cost to get the project over the line. Now, carpenters are skilled craftsmen that are able to make things with wood and fabricate all sorts of wood constructions. The price charged by carpenters are determined by a wide range of factors which makes it nearly impossible to provide a short and accurate estimate without having a look at your unique requirements. In this post, we’re going to give you an in-depth insight into general carpentry charges while also considering some of the influencing factors. Let’s take a look!
Some of the most common factors that determines the price charged by a carpenter includes the project type, the size as well as scope of the project, the location of project, ease of access, experience and qualification of the carpenter and lots more. For instance, if the job is a minor one such as building a shed, it’ll cost a lot less than something more complex which requires a bit more experience like constructing a staircase. In general, building a shed will have a labour cost within the range of £150 to about £250, while a staircase construction will require a labour cost in between £1,000 to £1,500. For general carpentry, you can expect to pay within the range of £20 to £30 hourly rate depending on a number of factors which are stated above. It’s also important to state that while some carpenters charge per hour, others by the day and several of their projects will be charged at fixed prices.
The table reveals the kinds of work that Carpenters normally do and also the regular cost range of these jobs. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so costs do differ by task.
View our Carpenter cost guide View our Carpenter advice| Carpenter job | Carpenter cost in 2026 |
|---|---|
| Kitchen Fitting in Chesham | £1,475-£3,665 |
| Carpenters and joiners in Chesham | £375-£575 |
| Plasterboard dry lining in Chesham | £638-£978 |
| Wood flooring in Chesham | £750-£1,150 |
| Wooden decking in Chesham | £663-£3,363 |
| Garden shed in Chesham | £300-£545 |
| Wooden window repair in Chesham | £320-£480 |
How To Lay Wood Flooring
Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.
Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:
• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.
• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.
• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.
• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.
• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.
• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.
• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.
• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.
• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.
Click here to learn more about wood flooring.
The number of hours you would have to invest and the number of holidays you will have will be mentioned on the contract before you undertake a project. It is very common that of you to be asked of work longer than your shift. It is completely your choice if you want to work more hours, but your employer has no right to force it on you.
There are certain guidelines that establishes the maximum number of hours an individual should labour each week. In general, the maximum number of hours for someone not yet 18 years old, is 40 hours in a week, or eight hours a day. For workers who are aged 18 or above, the number of hours increases to 48 hours a week.
You can contact the environmental health department of your local council or the National Health and Safety Executive (0845 345 00 55) for more information and advice about working hours. According to the law, all workers have the right to a holiday of at least 5.6 weeks (or a total of 28 days of paid leave, if you happen to work five days in a week).
Your holidays may be extended than the minimum right, but it is dependent on your employer. The critical things you should keep in mind about holiday rights are:
• holiday entitlement starts as soon as you begin work;
• your employer has a complete say in when you can take your holiday;
• for holidays you get normal pay;
• after completing the job, you will be compensated for any unused holidays.
In order to meet the requirements for the right to once a year leave you need to be categorized as a worker. You will have no statutory right to paid annual leave if you’re self-employed.
You, as a worker will not have a statutory right to paid leave on bank and public holidays. If you are given a paid leave on a bank or public holiday, this can count towards your 4.8 weeks minimum leave privilege. However, you may be provided with a paid leave on bank and public holidays in addition to your annual leave entitlement, if your employer chooses so.
Great Britain has a total of eight permanent bank and public holidays, whereas, Northern Ireland has ten.
There is no automatic right to an enhanced pay rate that you can exercise if you work on a bank or public holiday. Your remuneration depends on your contract of employment.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
What Is Plasterboard?
The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.
The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.
The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:
• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.
• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.
• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.
• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.
If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.
How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall
Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!
lAttach Furring Strips
• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.
• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer
• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.
• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.
• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.
lApply Plasterboard
• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.
• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.
• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.
• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.
• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.
• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.
• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.
Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.
The cost of wood flooring varies by the type of wood and by the finish required. As a guide though oak solid wood flooring cost about £35 - £45 per m2. The average wooden cost by material are approximately £40 per m2 for pine, £45 per m2 for cherry, £60 per m2 for maple and £75 per m2 for walnut. This price does exclude the laying of the flooring and the underlay required.
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