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Check your Price's door installation cost calculator and charges guide will allow you to estimate both typical labours only costs for door hanging & installations, renovations and repairs as well as the total estimate for comprehensive door installation projects.

• Door & Frame Installation Job and the average Cost in £'s

• uPVC door installation including glazing & architrave costs around £90 per door

• uPVC french & patio door sets including glazing & architrave costs around £120 per pair

• Softwood french & patio door sets including architrave costs around £180 per door

• Hardwood french & patio door sets including architrave would cost around £250 per pair

• Softwood internal door hanging only would be around £40 per door

• Hardwood internal door hanging only would set you back around £48 per door

• Softwood external door hanging only is around £60 per door

• Hardwood external door hanging would cost around £70 per door

• Locks, letterboxes & door furniture timber doors are around £15 per Item

• Glazing £15 per pane

• Brick cut-outs single doors is around £60 per cut-out

• French or patio door brick cut-outs will be around £90 per cut-out

• New lintels will cost around £150 per lintel

Door Repair Costs and Charges

Estimate door mending labour charges by totalling the unit costs of the mandatory jobs. The complete door repair cost includes the total labour charge plus the cost of all parts, fixtures and fittings. A call out charge may be added on jobs totalling less than £100.

Average Cost of Door Repair Job

Replacement glazing units for uPVC doors will be around £15 per unit

Replacement glazing units for timber doors is around £20 per unit

Replacement door glass pined & putty will cost£30 per pane

Replacement handles are around £10 each and general repair work will cost you £25 per hour

Building & FENSA certificate charges

FENSA certificates are obligatory for maximum door replacements and new build setting up prices differ from council to council.

Average Cost of Window Repair Job: One to two doors will cost around £85

Average Cost of Door Fixtures & Fittings Removal Job

Removing internal doors will cost around £10

Removing internal door liners will cost around £15

Removing external timber doors will cost about £10

Removing External timber door frame will be around £20

Removing external uPVC door & frame removal will be around £30 and Rubbish disposal will cost £150 per ton.

Are you a new homeowner? Or perhaps you’re simply looking to revitalize your home by adding some new flooring options. Wooden flooring is one of the most popular flooring options amongst home and property owners in the UK due to the multiple benefits it offers. It adds your home’s curb appeal making it stand out while also adding to resale value of your home - should you decide to sell in the near future. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, you have two options which includes carrying out the installation yourself or calling in a professional for help. While some homeowners would prefer to tackle this themselves, it’s highly advisable to get professional support for the project. In this article, we’re going to consider some of the benefits you stand to derive from getting your wooden flooring installed by a professional. Let’s take a look!  Efficient installation. Since professionals do this type of work almost on a daily basis, they’re generally able to complete a basic job within a day or two. With them, you’d be certain that you job would be completed to perfection within a certain timeframe.  Access to a range of wooden flooring options. Professionals are usually familiar with top notch wooden flooring options so they’re able to make recommendations on the most suitable wooden flooring type for your home and needs.  Flooring removal. Professionals typically remove old or existing flooring and clean up the area prior to the installation of the new wooden flooring. This way, you wouldn’t have to bother about hiring someone else to remove the existing flooring or to clean up the entire area before you can be able to install the new wooden flooring yourself.

The flight of steps in your multi-storey household doesn’t have to be purely efficient. With just a little thought given to banister design, the boring flight of stairs can turn into something you would like to show to people and be proud of. Replacement of your banister can even enhance the worth of your property, giving the entry an outstanding presence. But how much will new banisters and spindles cost you?

If you are considering starting with this project, having a help from a professional is always advised.

New banister cost

Banisters are also known as handrails. They are reinforced by balustrades or spindles – a row of pillars that improve the security of the stairway and donate in the direction of the overall look and feel. Banisters and spindles may appear dull due to use over time. A fresh coat of polish might help your staircase get a new facelift.

The cost of new banisters and spindles will fluctuate solely reliant on the material. The price for a new banister starts around £40 for softwood and can reach £120 for a metal one.

Spindle prices are also a contributing factor in determining the cost with prices in the range of £30 to £150 per meter based on the materials used.

How much does a new staircase banister cost?

Hiring a professional is very important when trying to properly install a new banister since they are familiar with the process and work as per safety compliance. Fitting your new banister can be easily taken care by a general builder as well as a carpenter.

Below is a table depicting the average costs of different types of bannisters and spindles:

White oak bannister is around £105 and spindles are around £13.50.

Pine bannister is around £35 and spindles are around £7.

Primed wood bannister costs around £31 and spindles costing around £18.

Metal bannister is around £110 with the spindles being around £6.

The cost of just the engineered wood flooringis from £18 to £73 per m2.

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m² 10 x 6 = 60m²
2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m²
3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m² / 0.358m² x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.