Find a Carpenter you can trust in Juniper Green.

After making the decision to install a new wooden flooring in your home, the next obvious step is finding the right installer to get the job done. When a wooden floor is fitted and properly maintained by the right professional, it will not only outlive the owner but also survive several generations. As a result, finding the perfect installer for your task should be a top priority to get the best return on investment. Here are a few sources that will put you in the right direction to finding a reliable wood flooring installation company.

• Friends, Relatives & Neighbours

If you have a friend, relative or neighbour that has a wooden floor installed in their homes, you can go for a visit to check out the work done. If you’re pleased with the work done, you can proceed to ask about the work ethics of the installer and get the contact if satisfied.

• Store Contact Lists

You’ll discover a long list of wooden flooring contractors on many stores trading flooring materials. These installers may not be affiliated with the store owners, but many stores see it as their responsibility to point you in the right direction so that the flooring material acquired from them can be put to good use.

• Internet

With the rapid rise of online technology, there’s hardly a service you can’t find on the internet. Websites like HomeAdvisor have been helping people find their desired service providers with relative ease for so long. To get the right installer online, it’s advisable to check reviews as well as testimonials before moving forward. Nowadays, you’re most likely going to find so many positive online reviews as some businesses now go to the extent of dubiously writing good reviews for their companies. As a result, it’s recommended to pay closer attention to the negative reviews and check if it’s something you can cope with before hiring an installer for your wooden flooring.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Most of the people out there do not know the difference between a carpenter and a joiner. This is a very common question that is asked by many as to whether there is an actual difference between the two.

Both joiners and carpenters have many shared traits. The definition seems to change throughout the UK. The southern parts use the term carpenter whereas the north seems to prefer the term joiner. Both of these trades involve working with wood mainly in the construction industry. Both of them are, however, are two very unique and separate trades. Both of them come under the broad term of ‘carpentry’ however their skills and specialisms differ.

A joiner is defined as a trained craftsman who is responsible for making or joining wood in a workshop. On the other hand, a carpenter is a professional that works on site with the timber. In summary, a joined creates the wood back at the workshop while the carpenter fixes them on site. A joiner, therefore, works on things that are done in a workshop using machinery while a carpenter is responsible for its assembly on site.

As both joiners and carpenters had learnt the basics of both trade while they were practising as an apprentice, several similar overlaps are bound to occur.

It is good practice to ask the company or the individual what trade they specialise in. As an example, a joiner may be able to make a particular item whereas a carpenter may be better doing the actual fitting.

It is evident from the above sections that carpentry and joinery are completely different and therefore, should be categorised under two different trades, however, there is indeed a lot in common in their extremely high skilled work.

• Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
• Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
• Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth

• Step treads (the actual step themselves)
• Step risers
• Coach screws
• Deck screws
• Saw
• Drill

1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

The flight of steps in your multi-storey household doesn’t have to be purely efficient. With just a little thought given to banister design, the boring flight of stairs can turn into something you would like to show to people and be proud of. Replacement of your banister can even enhance the worth of your property, giving the entry an outstanding presence. But how much will new banisters and spindles cost you?

If you are considering starting with this project, having a help from a professional is always advised.

New banister cost

Banisters are also known as handrails. They are reinforced by balustrades or spindles – a row of pillars that improve the security of the stairway and donate in the direction of the overall look and feel. Banisters and spindles may appear dull due to use over time. A fresh coat of polish might help your staircase get a new facelift.

The cost of new banisters and spindles will fluctuate solely reliant on the material. The price for a new banister starts around £40 for softwood and can reach £120 for a metal one.

Spindle prices are also a contributing factor in determining the cost with prices in the range of £30 to £150 per meter based on the materials used.

How much does a new staircase banister cost?

Hiring a professional is very important when trying to properly install a new banister since they are familiar with the process and work as per safety compliance. Fitting your new banister can be easily taken care by a general builder as well as a carpenter.

Below is a table depicting the average costs of different types of bannisters and spindles:

White oak bannister is around £105 and spindles are around £13.50.

Pine bannister is around £35 and spindles are around £7.

Primed wood bannister costs around £31 and spindles costing around £18.

Metal bannister is around £110 with the spindles being around £6.