Find a Conservatory Installer you can trust in Margate.

How To Put A Tiled Roof On A Conservatory

The roof is a vital part of any structure as it protects it from the elements such as snow, rain and lots more. When you have a conservatory built, the roof is just as important as that of the rest of the house. After all, both you and your loved ones will spend a lot of time there over several years, so you can as well give it a proper protection from the elements. So if you’re thinking about installing a tiled roof on your conservatory by yourself, you’ve come to the right place! However, it must be said that this is no easy task and should not be attempted as a DIY task if you do not have a proper training or the confidence needed to pull it off.

✓ Due to the fact that there are a wide range of tiled roofs to choose from, you have to think about the type of tiled roof you need before you proceed. The basic ones include composite panels, slate, synthetic tiles as well as concrete tiles.

✓ Examine the framework. It’s important to make sure that the framework possesses the right structure before adding theroof

✓ Remove the old roof panels. There’s the need to remove the poorly insulated glazed conservatory roof before installing the new tiled roof for a great efficiency.

✓ Change the existing roof frame. Apparently, there’s also a need to detach the older roof frame in order to install the new tiled roof. You have to change the old frame to one that’s suitable for the new tiles to be attached to.

✓ Add the tiles. To add the tiles. Simply lay them out across the roof and clipped on. This shouldn’t take that much time since a conservation isn’t a usually a big structure.

Modern conservatories are well insulated and have double glazing. This means that you can use them in winter, as well as in the warmer seasons. Different roof options such as a glass roof or a titled roof will allow a conservatory to become simply another room in the home.

What Is The Best Material For A Conservatory Roof?

In the past, conservatories normally have just a single roof material option - polycarbonate. However, there are a number of problems that was faced by some of the older models such as overheating, leaking roof, cold spots as well as poor sound insulation. With the great improvement in conservatory roof technology, better models have been developed which have completely eradicated these issues.

In recent times, we now have a wider varieties of materials that are incorporated to make conservatory roofs which are able to perform much better for a longer period of time. While tiled roof are incredibly useful to minimize heat loss, glass roof make use of clever reflective coating to keep the space at a comfortable temperature and modern polycarbonate roofs are now more energy efficient than it has ever been. So picking the best material for your conservatory roof is now a matter of preference.

✓ Glass conservatory roofs. This type of conservatory roof material is the perfect choice if you want a sleek, architectural finish for your conservatory. Not only are they available indifferent shapes and sizes, but you can also choose a large atrium style roof. They are made using solid aluminium frames that works to support the glass units which are thermally efficient and designed to retain natural heat while reflecting the sun’s glare.

✓ Tiled conservatory roof. Tiles roof are able to fit both the shape and size of your conservatory which provides you with a sloping or vaulted ceiling. They come in varying tiled finishes to match any style home like Marley clay, slate grey, pale shingles amongst others. Tiled roof are also called “warm roofs due to their particularly high levels of thermal insulation. They can also be installed quite easily and as quickly as any other conservatory roof options.

A good way to get rid of your conservatory is to sell it. Depending on its condition you may not make much money from it, but it’s an easy and financially viable way to get your old conservatory dismantled and out of the way. If you are replacing it, the installer can easily remove this for you completely.

• The rules only apply to houses – flats and maisonettes are not included
• Only 50% of the area of land around the original house can be covered by extensions, including conservatories, and other buildings
• You mustn’t build the conservatory higher than the highest part of the original roof
• Where the wooden conservatory comes within 2 metres of the boundary, the height at the eaves can’t exceed 3 metres
• A rear wooden conservatory can’t extend beyond the rear wall of the original house by more than 4 metres if it’s a detached house, or more than 3 metres for any other type of house
• For side extensions, for example a lean-to wooden conservatory, it can’t exceed 4 metres in height and can only be up to half the width of the original house

When people talk about finishes on a wooden conservatory, there are a few different things that they may be referring to. Some may be referring to the colour and type of wood used to build the conservatory, but they may also be talking about the type of treatment used to protect the wood from the weather. We’ll cover both bases for what finish is best on a wooden conservatory here.

When you’re thinking about the best wood type and finish for the conservatory, it’s best to go with a hardwood. There are both hardwoods and softwoods, and hardwoods are the most durable. Oak is the most expensive choice but is also the most durable, so lots of people decide to go for this option. Other good choices that are slightly cheaper are Brazilian cedar and idigbo. Softwoods like European redwood or Siberian larch are cheaper still, but they won’t last as long, so it may work out more cost-effective to spend more on a hardwood.

Wood is a natural material, so it’s important to look after your wooden conservatory to prevent it from rotting or getting attacked by bugs and pests. Your conservatory will be exposed to all weathers, so you’ll need to use a good finish to ensure that it stays in tip-top condition for years to come. Your installer should be able to tell you what’s best, but some of the best finishes for a wooden conservatory include breathable varnishes and decking oil. However, if you do use an oil, it’s best to use a preservative treatment too; oil will only repel water. Joints are particularly susceptible to water penetration, so make sure you use a good wood treatment and focus on areas where water would pool during rain. Then you can apply a decking oil afterwards.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, just like other new extensions, you must have a foundation done for your lean to conservatory. In order to transfer the building’s weight to the floor safely, there’s a need to construct a foundation. Without it, the structural integrity of the extension would be heavily compromised. What’s more? While there’s no minimum depth requirement for a lean to conservatory, there are multiple factors that can affect the depth as well as type of the foundation. Let’s take a look!

• The nearby trees. What trees do is to absorb water from the soil which can affect the foundation significantly. When water is absorbed from the soil, the soil shrinks which affects the foundation’s strength. The size as well as type of the tree will determine the extent of the water absorption from the ground.
• The soil’s suitability. The weight that each soil can withstand varies and even more so, when environmental factors have more effect on certain types of soils than others. For instance, chalk is able to drain water away relatively easily which means that nearby trees will only have a little effect on its quality. Clay, on the other hand, shrinks when drying and also retains a lot of water. This means that nearby trees will have huge impact on clay soil which will compromise the structural integrity of the lean to conservatory. Therefore, since changes to clay mostly occur to about 0.75m depth, foundations on the soil should be constructed deeper to compensate.
• Undisturbed ground. Before the foundations are laid, there’s a need to identify grounds that hasn’t been built on and this usually takes a depth of about 1m (this figure may vary especially in regions where drains have been laid).