Find an Electrician you can trust in Knaresborough.

There’s a need to ensure that all the paperwork are in place,before putting your house up for sale on the property market. An very good example of such essential document is the Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC) which is used as a proof to attest to the fact that the electrical installation works carried out on the property in question was actually done and also whether or not it satisfies the building regulations. It’ll be a contravention of the law to put your house up for sale or actually sell it without producing this important document. Therefore, if you’re looking to sell your house you may wish to know the electrical documentations you need to complete the task. In this post, we aim to provide you an in depth insight into the electrical certificates needed to sell your house while also helping you make informed decisions along the process. Let’s take a look!

You’ll need to obtain two certificates in the event whereby the electrical work done was performed by a registered and qualified electrician. The two documents include:

• The Building Regulations Compliance Certificate - This is provided to confirm that the electrical works done complies with the Building regulations.
• The Electrical Installation Certificate (EIC), alternatively you can have a Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate which is provided to confirm that the electrical works done satisfies the BS 7671.

In addition, the local building control body must be provided with a copy of these documents. In such an event whereby the electrical work was completed after 2013 and either it was done by yourself or by an individual who isn’t a registered professional, then there’s a need to make sure that work is inspected by a registered third party certifier within 5 days of completion. If the work is found to be satisfactory, you’ll be issued a copy of an Electrical Installation Condition Report.

There are a few factors that will determine whether it’s worth getting a solar battery. They involve how much electricity you use, how often you’re at home and whether you receive any export payments.

To work out whether it’s worth getting a solar battery, you need to work out how much of the electricity you generate you’re using already. If you’re able to run all your appliances during the day while your solar panels generate electricity, then it sounds like you’re already using your electricity well. It might not be worth you getting a solar battery in this case.

However, if you’re not at home for a lot of the day, then you’ll be missing out on the electricity your panels are generating while the sun’s shining. If you install a solar battery system, you can store the electricity that your panels generate in the battery and use it when you get home. This will help you cut your electricity bills even further.

You’ll also need to consider whether you’re getting paid to export your electricity. If you’re on the Feed-in Tariff scheme (FITs) or receive payments from the Smart Export Guarantee (SEG), you’ll get paid for every unit of electricity you export to the National Grid. Before you decide whether it’s worth getting a solar battery, you’ll need to weigh up whether you’d be better off carrying on exporting your unused electricity rather than storing it to use yourself. If you’re unsure, visit the Energy Saving Trust’s website or speak to an MCS-registered installer who will be able to help you work out which is more cost-effective.

You should report any suspected faults to your landlord as soon as you know about them. It is their responsibility to investigate, and hire an electrician to do any work if needed. Know your obligations as a tenant and keep in touch with your landlord on a regular basis.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

So, you’ve finally decided to go for solar? If yes, then you’d also probably find yourself trying to figure out exactly what solar battery size is needed to power your home or property. This is one of the most common questions when it comes to the solar system world and understandably so. In this article, we aim to give you an idea of the solar size you’d need to power your home or property before making a purchase decision. Let’s take a look!

The first thing to do if you find yourself asking this question is to identify the reason why you want to purchase the solar battery in the first place. For some individuals, they simply want to save some excess energy being fed back into the grid, while others just want protection from possible blackouts. There are also some environment-conscious home or property owners who makes this decision in order to create a carbon-neutral home. Another crucial factor to consider is your budget. A full solar storage system can be quite costly, although this is cheaper than a decade ago. Generally, the size of solar battery you’ll require depends on the following:

• How much energy you’re able to generate: The size of your solar array as well as its efficiency will influence the amount of power it’ll be able to supply to your home.
• Your daily energy usage needs: Daily energy usage can vary greatly between households depending on a number of factors. These factors include the number of occupants, geographical location, type of building, general household energy usage and more. Some may find that their solar system cover for most of their energy usage, while others find themselves still relying heavily on the grid.

If you’re thinking about adding new power sockets to your room, then you’ve come to the right place! This task can be a very tricky one especially if you don’t know how to go about it. If you don’t have the skills or experience necessary to pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of qualified and licensed electrician who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the numerous steps you’d have to take to make sure your new power sockets is added successfully. Let’s take a look!

• All the power to the working area at the primary electrical panel should be turned off.
• Identify the cut area for individual electrical box.
• Pilot saw blade by drilling corner holes
• Drill into framing for wiring, if required
• Connect electrical wires to the electrical panel from the outlet box holes, pulling four feet through the wall.
• Attach white wires to silver screws as well as black wires to brass screws and also the ground wire.
• Incorporate electrical tape to tape around the box
• Connect the box to the wall and cover with the outlet plate
• Carry out the process for individual outlet needed
• De-energize the entire electrical panel by shutting off the house’s main breaker
• Fit an arc volt breaker by connecting white and black wire to the breaker
• Connect white wire from the new breaker directly onto the neutral bar of the electrical panel
• Finally, you can turn the main breaker back on.

Unlike in houses constructed in the 1960s, where you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type, majority of houses built in the 1970s would not need to be rewired. Most often than not, what they’ll need is just a consumer unit as well as an earthing upgrade. If you happen to have a consumer unit change, the electrical professional you hire would have to inspect the most parts of the property regardless. With that answered, you may also wish to know just how often a house would need to be rewired.

First and foremost, in order to make sure that your wiring is safe there’s a need to ensure that a periodic inspection is carried out by a fully licensed and qualified electrician every 10 years. Meanwhile for rental properties with tenants, the landlord is required to carry out a periodic inspection at least every 5 years. This will make sure that the electrical works in the property are safe, up to date and suitable for continued usage.

In order to determine whether your house needs to be rewired, there are some signs or indicators you’d have to watch out for. If you notice one or even a combination of the following , then you should get in touch with a registered electrician:

• Discoloured outlets and switches
• Persistent burning smell
• Outlets problems
• Flickering lights
• Tripping circuit breaker or blown fuses
• If you happen to possess aluminium wiring
• If you have continually experienced electrical shocks

It must, however, be said that rewiring a house is a messy and quite disruptive work. It’s also considered to be quite dangerous and recommended to be carried out only by a professional is well trained and experienced when it comes to tackling electrical works.

How Much To Install Solar Panels And Battery?

Are you thinking about installing solar panels and battery in your home and wondering how much the installation is going to cost? Well, you’re not alone. This is one of the most commonly asked questions in the solar world, but unfortunately a precise answer can not be provided. This is mainly due to the fact that solar panel systems come in varying sizes which is the main influencing factor that determines how much electricity that can be generated. In other words, the larger the system, the more the electricity that’ll be produced to your home’s benefit.

Generally, for a solar system size of 1kW, the average cost of the solar panel ranges between £1800 to £1850, 2kW is between £3600 to £3700, solar panel size of 3kW ranges between £5500 to £5600 and finally, 4kW is between £6000 to £6050. For example, with the aforementioned prices in mind, the cost of solar panels for a standard 3 bedroom house will range between £5520 to £6040 as the high electricity demands will need the installation of 3 to 4kW solar system size.

Meanwhile the installation cost of solar batteries is also dependent on a number of influencing factors like the size as well as the make of the battery. Generally, you can expect to spend within the range of £500 to £2000 to install your batteries depending on aforementioned factors. In the event whereby you’ll be retrofitting, you might also need to include an additional cost of £1000 for an inverter. However, it’s important to note that there are only quite a few hybrid systems which are able to combine a battery storage with an inverter.