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If you’re thinking of getting a new carpet, one of the most likely issues you’re going to face is how to identify the types of carpet as there are a plethora of options in the market today. Being able to identify types of carpet can go a long way to make sure you get the most suitable type for your home without having to pay a professional. In this post, we’re going to consider the types of carpets and how you can identify them with ease. Let’s take a look!

When it comes of carpet construction, there are two main types which are defined by how their fibres are attached to their backings. These includes:

1. Loop pile. These are carpets which the fibres are bent into the small loops. They’re known to be very durable and stain resistant, however they also have a low profile as well as a limited cushioning. The loop pile style encapsulates the following:
2. Level loop ( also referred to as Berber). This carpet type features short loops which stand up well in traffic areas.
3. Multi level loop. This implies that the tops of the loops are different in height so as to give the carpet a patterned texture.
4. Cut pile. These are carpet types that cut the yarn tips to ensure there isn’t any loops. They tend to be denser and softer when compared to loop pile. The types of cut pile includes plush, saxony, textured cut pile, frieze carpet and cable.

On the other hand, carpets are made from different synthetic and natural fibres with varying characteristics. These includes nylon (the most popular as its durable and, wear and stain resistant), olefin ( resistant to moisture, mildew and mold), acrylic (a cheaper alternative to wool) and wool (the premier carpeting option and the only natural fibre used in manufacturing carpets).

If you’re replacing your carpet with new carpet, you might be able to use your old underlay. This is dependant on how long the existing carpet has been down for and also the condition of the underlay. But if you’re getting wood, laminate or vinyl flooring it’s not suitable. It will put stress on the joints if you use underlay.

How To Lay Wood Flooring

Laying of wood flooring is actually a very simple task contrary to many beliefs. First and foremost, before commencement of the fitting process, you must determine the direction you would like the engineered wood flooring to lie in. To do this the right way, they should lie in the direction of the the longest wall. However, if your subfloor is wooden, then having the boards positioned across the joists underneath would be your best bet to get started.

Here are some simple steps to follow to properly lay your wood flooring:

• Start from a corner, working from left to right and place the initial rows of the boards with the groove’s end directly opposite the closest wall.

• Make use of expansion spacers. Place them in between the wall and the board alongside an expansion gap of about 8 to 10mm.

• Place the board’s final rows at about 100mm wide. To achieve this, it is crucial to be pro-active with the measurement and cut the boards (if you deem fit) to adjust the first row.

• With the help of the click system, the boards will click together.

• Fit in the next board. Ensure to attach the tongues together (30 degrees from the floor) and once done, you can proceed to lower and lock it in place. Do this till you get to the end of the row.

• Cut the last board of the row to size if its too long.

• If the part cut off is up to 300mm, simply use it to start the next row. If not, cut a new board in half to use.

• Put the rows side by side in such a way to ensure the joints are staggered at each and every row. Keep a consistent gap between the wall and the planks via the continuous use of the spacers.

• Lay a plank over the last row to determine the width of the previous board. Position a new plank in a way that its tongue is directly against the wall. Once done, proceed to mark a line of plank underneath to get the required width. Then, fit the plank into the space with the help of a pull bar and hammer.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

One the several of the several benefits that comes with having a wooden floor installed is the fact that damaged surfaces can be repaired without the need to replace the floor in the whole room. This is not applicable to many other types of flooring whereby even the littlest damages are not reparable. Depending on the severity and depth of the wooden flooring damage, there are a number of techniques you can incorporate to repair the affected area. For examples, minor damages will not require as much effort as corner curling or cupping. In certain cases where the job requires no expertise, the repair process can be done by any individual with no prior experience in similar works. However, in other cases, when the wooden flooring has suffered a major damage, it’s advisable to call for a professional help.

First of all, it’s quite important to always watch out and prevent any sort of damages as this is way better than spending time trying to have the damaged surface repaired. One of the ways to prevent damages is by always lifting furniture rather than just dragging it across the floor when you need to move it. However, accidents are always meant to happen. In the case of damaged wooden flooring, here are some repair solutions.

When there are small scratches on your flooring, simply add a new coating of sealer to your floor (if the floor has already been oiled, just add another layer of oil). For lacquered floors, make use of a lacquer repair pen to help get rid of the scratches. In addition, there are some DIY shops offering wax filler sticks which can be used to hide or remove both light and medium scratches on wooden flooring.

Are you looking to renovate your home or property by laying a brand new carpet? Or perhaps your current carpet has started giving indications that it’s well past its glorious days and needs to be replaced. Regardless of the reason why you wish to recarpet your home, you’d probably find yourself asking the same question almost every home and property owner in a similar situation asks - how much does it cost to recarpet a house? Well, you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take a good look at house recarpeting costs.

Generally, carpet fitting costs can be within the range of £5 per square meter to about £30 per square meter. However, when it comes carpet costs itself, a short and accurate answer can’t be provided. This is due to the fact that carpet costs can vary largely based on a number of factors which includes the weaves, the texture, the material incorporated ( such as wool, cotton, polyester, polypropylene and more), the pile depth, the colour as well as the brand. What’s more? You’re probably going to want varying carpet types for different areas of your home. For instance, you should use a more robust material for your stairs than what you’d probably get for your living area.

Overall, if you want a low budget carpet, you should be able to get one anywhere within the range of £5 per square meter to £10 per square meter.  On the other hand, if you have a mid range budget, you can expect to find carpets anywhere within the range of £15 per square meter to £20 per square meter. And finally, if you’re looking for luxurious carpets, the price starts at £30 per square meter.

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.