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Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Being the primary material used in wooden flooring installation, the floorboards are the main supply costs. With that in mind, you should also know that there are a large variety of wooden flooring types to select from, each with their unique pros and cons which should all be considered before making a purchase decision. If you’re looking to get the supply cost of wooden flooring in the UK, then you’ve come to the right place! Here is a basic price guide of various and some of the most popular types of floorboards.

If you wish to go for an engineered wood flooring, this looks better when compared to laminate and is more affordable than solid wood. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Laminate flooring, on the other hand, is also quite cheap, easy to install and quite hardwearing, however it tends to warp over time as a result of exposure to moisture and it also happens to be the least attractive of all the other flooring types. You can expect to pay within the range of £10 to about £50 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Solid wood flooring is a great option with a better look and feel to it. However, it also tends to warp over time and more difficult to install as against laminate. You can expect to pay within the range of £20 to about £100 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

Parquet flooring is long lasting and very attractive, but quite expensive to have fitted.  You can expect to pay within the range of £25 to about £200 per square metre for this wood flooring type.

If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

Do you have a busy household or a thriving business? When you have a carpeted stairs faced with a high traffic on a regular basis, you know its going to take quite a beating over time. As a result, the carpet tends to start looking tired and worn out almost immediately especially if it isn’t designed to withstand such an heavy usage. Hence, the importance of taking an extra little time when deciding on which new stair carpet or stair runners to purchase and install so as to identify those with sturdier properties which are designed to last and also durable. This way, regardless of the amount of traffic it faces on a regular basis, it’ll always stay looking smart and healthy with good maintenance efforts. In this post, we’re going to consider the best carpet for stairs with a high foot traffic. Let’s take a look!

When looking for a good carpet for a heavy traffic stairs, you need to be able to identify hard-wearing stair carpet runners most of which will be clearly labelled as such. These carpets are designed to handle a high level of footfalls primarily because of the way they’re manufactured and materials incorporated. These materials include sisal (one of the best materials to look out for when you’re shopping for a hard-wearing stair carpet) and polypropylene which is an extremely popular material used in hard-wearing carpets due to its incredible features.

Apart from the materials incorporated, a lot of the strength and resilience also comes from the way in which the fibres are constructed and woven. The most reliable types of carpet weaves to look out for when choosing a high traffic stair carpet runner includes flatweave, wilton weave as well as needlepunch.

One the several of the several benefits that comes with having a wooden floor installed is the fact that damaged surfaces can be repaired without the need to replace the floor in the whole room. This is not applicable to many other types of flooring whereby even the littlest damages are not reparable. Depending on the severity and depth of the wooden flooring damage, there are a number of techniques you can incorporate to repair the affected area. For examples, minor damages will not require as much effort as corner curling or cupping. In certain cases where the job requires no expertise, the repair process can be done by any individual with no prior experience in similar works. However, in other cases, when the wooden flooring has suffered a major damage, it’s advisable to call for a professional help.

First of all, it’s quite important to always watch out and prevent any sort of damages as this is way better than spending time trying to have the damaged surface repaired. One of the ways to prevent damages is by always lifting furniture rather than just dragging it across the floor when you need to move it. However, accidents are always meant to happen. In the case of damaged wooden flooring, here are some repair solutions.

When there are small scratches on your flooring, simply add a new coating of sealer to your floor (if the floor has already been oiled, just add another layer of oil). For lacquered floors, make use of a lacquer repair pen to help get rid of the scratches. In addition, there are some DIY shops offering wax filler sticks which can be used to hide or remove both light and medium scratches on wooden flooring.

If you’re thinking of getting a new carpet, one of the most likely issues you’re going to face is how to identify the types of carpet as there are a plethora of options in the market today. Being able to identify types of carpet can go a long way to make sure you get the most suitable type for your home without having to pay a professional. In this post, we’re going to consider the types of carpets and how you can identify them with ease. Let’s take a look!

When it comes of carpet construction, there are two main types which are defined by how their fibres are attached to their backings. These includes:

1. Loop pile. These are carpets which the fibres are bent into the small loops. They’re known to be very durable and stain resistant, however they also have a low profile as well as a limited cushioning. The loop pile style encapsulates the following:
2. Level loop ( also referred to as Berber). This carpet type features short loops which stand up well in traffic areas.
3. Multi level loop. This implies that the tops of the loops are different in height so as to give the carpet a patterned texture.
4. Cut pile. These are carpet types that cut the yarn tips to ensure there isn’t any loops. They tend to be denser and softer when compared to loop pile. The types of cut pile includes plush, saxony, textured cut pile, frieze carpet and cable.

On the other hand, carpets are made from different synthetic and natural fibres with varying characteristics. These includes nylon (the most popular as its durable and, wear and stain resistant), olefin ( resistant to moisture, mildew and mold), acrylic (a cheaper alternative to wool) and wool (the premier carpeting option and the only natural fibre used in manufacturing carpets).

In order to get a good idea for how much is needed, there’s a need to measure a room for carpet. This is an essential step that should be completed before you shop for brand new carpets to install. Taking the measurement for a basic square or an oblong area is actually relatively easy as long as you put the doorways and entry stairs into consideration. If you’re looking for the best way to measure for carpet, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to take you through room measurement for carpet procedures.

To get started, you’re going to need a measuring tape or a laser distance measurer, a paper and writing instrument or note taking app, a calculator or calculator app as well as a graph paper and a pencil if you wish to draw your layout.

1. Draw a simple diagram of your home. This doesn’t have to be perfect, but you’d have to ensure the measurements taken are accurate. All that’s needed is a basic drawing featuring all the rooms shown. What’s more? If the room happens to be square or rectangular, you can calculate the area simply by multiplying the width by the length.
2. Chimneys and recesses. If the room in question features chimneys breasts and recesses, take a measurement of the entire space and ignore them, the flooring or carpet will simply be cut around them.
3. Calculating the final figure. Take a measurement of each area and put it down in the relevant space on the diagram. Then, simply break the room down to smaller rectangular shapes, determine their area and add them together to obtain the total area of your room. You can make an allowance of up to 5 percent of the total for possible waste.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.