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It may be shocking a whole lot of people would not be able to point out fascias and soffits on a building despite the fact that they’re an essential part of the roof. To give you an idea, they’re simply used to cover the roof beams’ ends that comes out of the wall from underneath of the roof. The board that runs vertically just below the roofline is the fascia board, which is also the long length of UPVC. Therefore if you look at the gutters located in the front of house, the board behind is called the fascia board. However, soffits runs horizontally from behind the gutters to the wall of a building, so if you walk close to a house and look up, you’ll identify the soffits. They’re done to cover the gaps between the wall house and the gutters. The main function of both soffit and fascia is to divert water away from your roof as well as walls.

Fascias and soffits were usually made of wood before UPVC came along. And as a result, they only require little maintenance, no more warping, painting or cracks unlike the wooden ones. However they also can’t last an eternity, so when the time comes and you need to replace your soffit and fascia, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’s going to cost.

Unfortunately, there’s no way to calculate an accurate cost for fascias and soffits as there are too many variables to put into consideration. These includes the type of fascia and soffit you choose as well as the size of your property. However the average cost to replace a three bed semi-detached house’s fascias and soffits is within the range of £1200 to £1500 or even more if you’re staying in London or in a larger detached building.

You should replace your soffits and fascias if you are having problems. Soffits and fascias can degrade and rot away over time, and this can cause leaks, faulty guttering, or even allow pests entry to the roof space. If any of these problems occur, you should speak to an experienced roofline company to discuss replacing your soffits and fascias.

In general uPVC is used for soffits and fascias as it is very strong and durable. It also requires very little maintenance. However, wood can be used and is still popular on listed properties as it retains the original material. Older and listed buildings may require more traditional materials to be used.

Having ventilation in the roof void is a requirement for building regulations approval. Fitting ventilated soffits is the typical way that this roof ventilation is achieved. If you do not have roof ventilation, you may find that your roof void has problems with condensation or overheating.

Every year, various parts of your roof may need to be changed at one point or the other. Due to the fact that this event can occur at any time in a year, there’s the need to be fully ready. When it comes that being ready, you simply can’t overlook the importance of soffit and fascia boards in protecting your roof space and helping it maintain its clean and unique visual appeal. As a result, when your soffit and fascia boards need to be changed, you best do so as quickly as possible.

This task can be completed by anyone with basic DIY knowledge and experience, but if you lack the confidence to pull off then it’ll be advisable to hire a professional who can guarantee the best results for help.

✓ Remove the old existing boards. In order to install the new soffit and fascia boards, you’d have to remove the existing ones first. If necessary, you can make use of a Stanley knife to make the process much easier.

✓ Fixing soffit boards. Several soffit boards are made using uPVC. The boards are to fixed to the underside of your timber rafter ends. Make sure to use timber to close any gaps between soffit boards and also make sure that your soffit boards’ back are resting against the wall’s top.

✓ Fixing fascia boards. Many fascia boards are also made from uPVC and are usually installed in a similar way to soffit boards. Use a minimum of two nails to make sure they’re secure enough to hold weight of any roof tiles and also to prevent any buckling.

✓ Guttering and felt. To start the guttering, you’d have to screw any brackets into the facia board. You can use a spirit levelto make sure the alignment is perfect to enable the floe of water directly through your guttering system. Once done, you should also check for any rotting roof felt at the edges closest to the gutterin. If there is a rot, make use of eaves felt trays and tuck under existing felt and overlap into the guttering

Soffits and fascias sit along the sides of your property, over the join between your walls and your roof. The fascia attaches to the end of your roof rafters, hiding and protecting them. The soffit fixes on the bottom of the fascia, bridging the gap between your fascia and wall. Your guttering attaches to the fascia, which also joins to the bargeboard on your gable end, if you have one.

As long as you can access them safely, it’s fairly easy to clean soffits and fascias. Using a sponge and warm water to scrub them is a good way to get off most types of dirt. You might want to add detergent or bleach to the water to make it more effective.

Once you’ve scrubbed your soffits and fascias, rinse them with clean water to make sure you’ve got all of the dirt and detergent off.

• A sturdy ladder
• Gloves and safety goggles
• A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement
• A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make
• Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off
• All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering
• An electric drill and/or screwdrivers

1. Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket.
2. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles.
3. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet.
4. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets.
5. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia.
6. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!