Find a Handyman you can trust in Bootle.

There are a bunch of things a handyman can do around the house, so if you’re looking for a reason to hire one, you’d definitely find plenty. First and foremost, a handyman is basically a well versed, skilled and experienced professional who possesses the ability to carry out a plethora of tasks as well as repairs. While not all local authorities require handymen to have a license or carry an insurance policy, some handymen do have insurance. Generally, their rates vary based on their experience as well as specialities.

Handymen are able to handle a multitude of potential jobs in and around the house. These ranges from small tasks, installations, assembly, indoor or outdoor building or repair jobs. They are available to help out with a wide array of odd jobs around the home at a very reasonable price. So, what are some of the jobs a handyman can do in a home? Let’s take a look!

• Odd jobs. This encapsulates any small job you’d want done around the house. It could be a repair, installation or maintenance task.
• Gutter cleaning and repair. The idea of cleaning a gutter may seem hassle free, but there can be a couple of difficulties which includes the use of ladders and the risk of falling. When you hire a handyman to do this task, he does not only clean but also check for any damage or repair needs and much more.
• Painting. If you’re not able to handle some of your painting projects or perhaps you’re just not confident of how its going to turn out, it may be in your best interest to reach out to a skilled handyman.
• General carpentry and home repairs, these includes shelving, cabinets, bookcases, baseboards, framing, doors, countertops, moulding and more.

You should always wait until plaster is dry before painting. The time this will take varies depending on the room and property, but in general, it will take about a week. Your plasterer will tell you how long it is best to leave it before covering or painting their work.

Patios do not require lots of maintenance. They will only need occasional cleaning to make sure that the material keeps its original appearance. It's always best to clean your patio with a pressure washer and occasionally tap each slab or brick just to check the sand underneath hasn't washed away.

If you’re conservatory leaks every time it rains, has degraded roof or is apparently worn, then it’s high time some repair and maintenance work is carried out. However, several home and property owners tend to overlook this type of repair work because they believe it’s going to cost them a lot of money. In reality, this need not be the case when you work with any of the accredited tradespeople or companies in your local area as they’re always able to provide quotes that’ll suit your budget. If you’re wondering what the cost of repairing your conservatory is, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you an idea of a conservatory repair cost range. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that there’s no single and straightforward answer to this question as there are multiple factors that influences the repair cost of a conservatory. These factors include the type of damage(s) involved, the materials used, the experience of company hired, your location and many more.

Generally, for conservatory fixtures and fittings repair jobs, we have a lot of parts to consider. For replacement roof panels, the cost you should expect to incur is within the range of £30 to £50 per panel. For sealed glazing unit replacement, you’re likely to incur within the range of £17 to £19 per unit. For door re-hung, you should expect to incur about £19 to £22 per door leaf. For leak tracing and repairs, you’re likely to spend within the range of £18 to £22 per hour, while call out charges will possibly range from £30 to £50 per visit.

1. Mark out the area and dig the top layer of soil, trying to get the ground as flat as possible.
2. Build a timber frame to size.
3. Measure out 4 rows of 3 blocks to create good weight distribution and lay in place.
4. Underneath each block, dig around 50mm wider than the blocks and about 150mm deep. Fill the hole with pea gravel until it’s flat.
5. Place timber planks along the rows of blocks and see how level it is. Add or remove blocks where necessary. If it’s only a small difference, use shingle underneath the timber until it’s level.
6. Nail your timber shed base to the timber planks to create a sturdy base for your shed.

1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, it definitely does matter if the graffiti has been there a long time! When it comes to graffiti removal, one thing to have at the back of your mind is prompt removal is always the most effective. However, this doesn’t mean that a long existing graffiti can’t be removed. Graffiti that has been in existence a long time can be removed, but you shouldn’t expect this to be a walk in the park. If you don’t have the experience, tools and skills to pull this off, it’s strongly recommended that you call in a qualified professional for help so as to ensure the best result is achieved without any form of damage to your walls.  However, if you wish to give this a shot, then here are some tips that should put you in the right direction.

Here, we’ll advise you to get an effective graffiti cleaning solution such as Elephant Snot® to remove the long existing graffiti. To start the removal process, simply brush the product ( Elephant Snot® ) with the help of a wallpaper brush on the affected wall. Once completed, let the product sit for about 45 minutes to 1 hour to make for an easy removal. After this, you can then proceed to power washing it off at about 1400 to 1600 psi cold water. This should remove virtually all the paint leaving only a few behind. Identify the remaining stubborn graffiti and go for a second application. Repeat the process until the graffiti has been fully washed off. This should leave no damage to your wall whether brick or mortar.