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How Much Does A Boiler Repair Cost?

An annual service for your boiler might not seem important and may be easy to postpone to another day, but when it happens to breakdown due to lack of adequate attention, this can be quite painful and also costly.

Before you start thinking about the cost of repairing your boiler, the first thing you’ll need to confirm is whether or not your boiler is still covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. You’d be amazed some warranties can last for as long as 12 years, if yours is still on then you can save yourself a huge amount of of money on your boiler repair. As a result, it’s always crucial to keep the details of your warranty somewhere safe, so you can read them from time to time. You never can tell when the rainy day will come!

Most boiler warranties will require your to get your boiler serviced on an annual basis by a licensed and qualified technician. The cost of an annual boiler service is affected by the time of the year you wish to get it done. When boilers are less useful during the summer months, an annual service is usually relatively cheap when compared to the cold months. Around this period, a boiler service will normally cost within the range of £100 to £150, however for a more accurate quote it’s advisable to contact a couple of professionals and compare their quotes.

The cost of getting a boiler repaired will be affected by a couple of factors including your boiler’s make, the age of the boiler as well as your location and how urgent you need it done. If you have a dead boiler, the cost will typically range from £96 to £348 and a boiler displaying a fault code will cost within the range of £90 to £275. Generally, repairing a boiler will cost within the range of £90 to £400 based on the several factors stated above.

A terrible day would be walking into your home to discover your boiler is broken - nobody prays for that and even more so, when you’re fully aware a broken boiler can be one of the most expensive things to repair. However, when this occurs, a boiler plan is ready to help cover the repair cost - and that’s only if you’ve gotten one. Generally, cover plans feature only a monthly price which is quite affordable when compared to paying a huge lump sum at once. Furthermore, depending on your cover level, you may not be required to incur call out charges or any other expensive services rendered. And in the event whereby your boiler can’t be repaired, there’ll be plans in place to get a replacement unit. As a result, getting a boiler cover is a great way to give yourself a peace of mind and see to it that you’re not left in the cold when the worse happens.

So the answer to whether or not you should get a boiler cover is totally a positive one. The purchase of a new heating system can be quite costly, but it would even be costlier when you have to repair it ceaselessly throughout it’s service years. With several modern combi units being a complicated heating system to repair, getting a cover plan with unlimited call outs, zero excess as well as cover parts and labour would be a truly wise decision.

In addition, an annual service of your heating system is required by manufacturers in order to make the warranty valid. Therefore, just a basic service plan is very crucial if you do not buy the idea of having to fork out at least £70 for each service.

The Oil Firing Technical Association or OFTEC operate a competent persons scheme to certify installers. It’s always recommended to use an installer with this certification as it proves they have the training and expertise to properly install your boiler and give you realistic advice on the efficiency of your system. Also, OFTEC registered installers offer Workmanship Warranties to protect you if there are any problems after installation.

How Much Does It Cost To Move A Gas Meter?

When your gas meter is not in the right location while completing your renovation works or extending your property, it can be a worrying experience.

As a homeowner, you’re not allowed by the law to move your gas meter by yourself - it’s a very dangerous task that’s too risky to undertake just by watching a Youtube video or reading a blog post. Moving of a gas meter can and should only be carried out by a qualified and licensed gas supplier. And this, ultimately, gives rise to the question - how much does it cost to move a gas meter? Before we provide an answer for that, let’s look at what moving of a gas meter entails.

First and foremost, moving of a gas meter typically involves switching off the gas source to your home or property. The pipeline about 2 metres away from your property would be cut into for safety reasons and diverted into another position. Furthermore, you can as well apply that your meter should be re-fitted and re-linked to the inner copper pipeline, but that’s if the inner copper pipeline happens to be within two metres of the new location of your gas meter.

The time involved in the completion of a gas meter re-location project depends largely on the complexity of the job as each project is unique. Typically, the standard timescale from preparation to the final stage of moving a gas meter will take between 4 to 8 weeks. Finally, how much will it cost to relocate your gas meter?

As there are no government funds to subsidize gas meter relocation costs, this can be a very expensive work to carry out. Generally, the price to move a gas meter of about 5m will start within the range of £640 to £670.

Biomass boilers do require some maintenance. Many manufacturers recommend servicing twice a year, although this is often included in the installation cost. Many systems have automatic fuel loading that removes the need to manually load fuel. You will need to remove the ash from the boiler, but this is as easy as emptying a vacuum cleaner.

Re-pressurising your boiler means that you allow more water to enter system via the filling loop. It can be easy to re-pressurise your boiler yourself. Always check your manual, but there are some simple steps you can take to restore pressure to your boiler:

1. Switch off your boiler and let it cool completely
2. Make sure both ends of your filling loop are attached
3. Open both valves to allow cold water into the system – you’ll hear it start to move
4. Look out for your pressure gauge to show 1.5 bar
5. Close both valves
6. Switch your boiler back on
7. Undo both ends of your filling loop and remove it. Remember some water might come out, so be ready to catch some spillage!

The short answer to this is no! Smart thermostats can still be used without WiFi, however, they’ll be deprived of some certain capabilities and innovative features that comes mainly due to their ability to connect to the internet. As a result, the smart thermostat will only be functional for basic task such as heating and cooling control. In other words, making use of a WiFi connection will be in your best bet to enjoy the multiple juicy benefits that comes with a smart thermostats such as remote monitoring, ability to connect to other devices and display local weather conditions and much more. And what’s the use of purchasing a smart thermostat if you’d not be able to enjoy these remarkable features?

However, even when you have a WiFi, it’s expected for the connection to fail at times. When this happens, what will be the impact on your smart thermostat? Let’s have a closer look!

• As you would have expected, when your smart thermostat is disconnected from WiFi, features that are controlled with the mobile app would all be impacted. And this might be a big headache when you wish to access these features and control remotely when far away from home.

• When your smart thermostat connection to WiFi fails, all live updates and alerts would be affected. This implies that you’d stop seeing updates, reports and notifications on your mobile device. As a result, you’ll not be notified in case of an emergency like electricity cut-outs, water leaks, humidity and temperatures exceeding the set levels as well as thermostat’s low battery.

• The lack of a WiFi connection might have taken away all the juicy advantages of having a smart thermostat, but one function that remains unaffected is the basic one - the control of your home’s heating and cooling system. In other words, if your smart thermostat is offline, your home will still be heated and cooled to the thermostat’s set temperature.

How To Install A Gas Cooktop In An Island

Are you thinking about installing a gas cooktop in your kitchen island? If yes, then you must know that there are clearance requirements that must be met (before you proceed) between the cut out and the countertop’s edge. Basically, there are incremental requirements for island installation due to the fact that it does not make an assumption that the product is going to be fitted against a rear wall that acts to protect the back of the unit. As a result, while doing an island install we must put the safety of the product into consideration much more that we do a standard install. What’s more? This island clearance requirement develops from a third-party agency and is a standard with all brands. So how do you install a gas cooktop in an island having the aforementioned requirements in mind?

• Use a foil tape to line the inside edges of the cut out. The function of this is to prevent heat damage as well as countertop’s discolouration. Put the cooktop top on a secured surface.

• Identify the pipe coming out of the cooktop’s side or bottom and brush onto the threads of the manifold entrance.

• Pass the pressure regulator onto the entrance of the manifold and make use of a wrench to tighten it.

• Brush the pipe joint compound onto one of the flare union adaptor’s threads and pass it into the regulator’s open end. Make it slightly tight with a full turn of the wrench.

• Connect the flare union adaptor’s open end with the flexible appliance connector hose, upon brushing on pipe joint compound.

• Put foam tape on the cooktop underside’s edges, if your cooktop comes with a glass burner plate.

• Turn the cooktop to set it into the cutout.

• Apply pipe-joint compound onto the flare union adaptor left and secure it firmly into the gas shutout valve.

• Connect the flexible hose connector’s free end with the flare union adaptor.