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Are Electric Radiators Expensive To Run?

Just like many home additions, the running costs of electric radiators varies largely on a number of factors. Great number of electric radiators typically comes with an in built thermostat which is designed to turn itself off automatically when not in use in order to save energy.

However the energy provider’s set electricity charge tariff will also have a great influence on an electric radiator’s running cost. Let’s take a look at the running costs of an electric radiator!

A 600 Watt electric radiator ( on a standard electricity tariff) will usually have a running cost ranging between 4 to 6 pence each hour. However you should also take note that this scenario might change in situations whereby the electric radiator is not calling for heat the full 60 minutes of each hour. And this is more likely to be the situation as the thermostat is programmed in such a way that enables it to turn itself off immediately there’s an achievement of your required room temperature level - usually within 10 minutes from the time it was switched on. As a result of this, the running cost per hour of electric radiators will be greatly reduced to just about 1 to 2 pence.

It’s also important to note that enhancing the insulation of your home can go a long way to add to the heat retention value of each room. Consequently, the duration at which the electric radiator calls more heating will be significantly reduced, which in turn, implies a lower electricity bill.

Another key factor that can play a huge role in saving on your heating bills is the programming as well as usage of your electric radiators. Every radiator comes with an independent digital thermostat with a number of 24/7 programming options to help achieve maximum efficiency. When the radiator is properly set according to your lifestyle, you can save as much as 50 percent on your heating bills.

Your LPG storage tank should have a gauge that shows you how much fuel it has in it. Most LPG suppliers suggest that you arrange a fuel delivery when the level in your tank gets down to about 20%. Make regular checks, particularly in the winter when you will use more, so you know when levels are low.

If your boiler is leaking, there are some checks that you can do yourself. However, you should never attempt to repair your boiler yourself – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer should conduct repairs.

There are 3 main reasons why your boiler might be leaking: there’s a pressure valve fault, a temperature valve leak or corrosion in the system. An engineer will be able to spot the problem quickly, but in the meantime there are a few things you can do:

Check the pipe fittings

If your boiler is leaking water around the pipe fittings, it could be an installation fault and you should get in touch with the engineer that fitted it. You can check the pipe fittings by drying the area then waiting to see if the water appears again. If it does, you may be able to do a ¼ turn of the pipe to stop it. However, you should still call the engineer that installed it to ask them to check the PTFE tape on the inside.

Inspect the seals

Over time, the rubber seals on a boiler can start to perish, so if you have an old boiler this could be the source of your leak. If you have a new boiler, it could be caused by your boiler running over pressure.

Heat exchanger corrosion

Unfortunately, if a boiler engineer discovers that the boiler is leaking water from the heat exchanger, this is the end of the road for your system. The heat exchanger is the most expensive part of your boiler, so it makes more financial sense to replace your boiler with a newer, more efficient model rather than try to replace it.

Re-pressurising your boiler means that you allow more water to enter system via the filling loop. It can be easy to re-pressurise your boiler yourself. Always check your manual, but there are some simple steps you can take to restore pressure to your boiler:

1. Switch off your boiler and let it cool completely
2. Make sure both ends of your filling loop are attached
3. Open both valves to allow cold water into the system – you’ll hear it start to move
4. Look out for your pressure gauge to show 1.5 bar
5. Close both valves
6. Switch your boiler back on
7. Undo both ends of your filling loop and remove it. Remember some water might come out, so be ready to catch some spillage!

In the UK, more than 50 percent of the money paid for utility bills is aimed at heating and hot water costs as stated by the Energy Saving Trust. This also means that when you settle for an old or ageing boiler, you’ll have to unnecessarily incur high utility bill in order to heat your home and have hot water on demand. In this kind of situation, the most effective and practical solution is to fit a new gas boiler in your home. This will provide you several benefits such as improved efficiency and reliability as well as reduced operating costs.

However, the only drawback here is the fact that removing your old gas boiler and replacing it with a new gas boiler isn’t a 5 minute task. And as you would have expected, like many other home improvement project there’s always an element of disruption that you’ll have to put into consideration when fitting a new gas boiler system. Good news is, with a qualified and experienced heating companies, these disruptions can be kept at a minimum. So now let’s take a look at how long it’ll take to replace a gas boiler depending on the type.

✓ An existing combi boiler upgrade - Installation times may vary, but typically the removal of an existing combi boiler and installation of a new one will usually be completed in a day - about four to six hours.

✓ Converting a regular to a combi boiler - Due to the fact that these type of project is usually labour intensive, it’ll take longer to complete - about 2 days.

✓ First time installation of new boiler to a home. This will usually take about 3 or more days because new pipes and other tasks need to the installation will be carried out.

If you’re thinking about getting a new gas boiler for your home or property, then you might also be wondering how much it’ll cost you so you can set a budget and start planning. As simple as this question sounds, it’s actually very tricky to provide a simple and short answer as the costs of installing a new gas boiler alone varies greatly based on the parts needed, the amount of work required, your location, their availability as well as the company you hire for the project.

When it comes to purchasing a new gas boiler the price you’re expected to pay also depends on multiple influencing factors such as the type, brand as well as your most preferred gas boiler model. However, one thing you should have in mind is the fact that your gas boiler is right at the heart of your home or property and can be a complicated piece of machinery. As a result, you wouldn’t expect gas boilers to come cheap. Generally, it’s going to cost within the range of £500 to about £2,500 to get a new gas boiler. Therefore, it’s always advisable to obtain all necessary details and facts before you decide to purchase a replacement gas boiler.

This price range may seem too high as it’s usually a turn off for most homeowners. However, it’s worth noting that gas boiler replacement costs and gas boiler installation costs are, more often than not, compensated by the saving you’ll make off your utility bills - all thanks to the new and more energy efficient boiler you just installed in your home. And even more importantly, when it has been estimated that roughly half of the amount spent on energy on an annual basis depends on your boiler.

What Size Of Oil Boiler Do I Need?

When it comes to oil boilers, there are three main types - the combi, system and conventional. Within these types, you’d discover there happens to be a wide range of sizes to choose from. First and foremost, we must note that the size has to do with the amount of energy they offer to your heating and hot water system rather than the physical dimensions.

The rule of thumb is, the larger your house (which implies the more hot taps, radiators and showers), the more powerful (bigger) the oil boiler you’d require. For instance, a four-bedroom apartment with three showers occupied by a family of four will definitely need a more powerful boiler than a a bungalow featuring a single occupant.

It is, however, important to also note that it’s not all about going for the biggest oil boiler. If you decide to choose an oil boiler with a much bigger capacity that needed, not only will you be wasting money on the initial purchase as well as installation, but also lose money operating it. And in a converse scenario, if you go for the cheaper and lower-powered oil boiler in an attempt to save up some money, you’re most likely to end up with tepid radiators while also frequently running out of hot water. Hence, the importance of determining the appropriate size of boiler for your particular household before purchase.

To determine the appropriate size, determining the number of bathrooms, radiators as well as the total number of people living in the property would be a step in the right direction.

Numbers of Radiators Combi System Boiler Regular

Up to 10 24 to 27kW 9 to 18kW 9 to 18kW

10 to 15 28 to 34kW 18 to 26kW 18 to 26kW

15 to 20 35 to 42kW 27 to 40kW 27 to 40kW

Installing your Nest thermostat may not be as easy as screwing a light bulb, but we can also assure you that it isn’t very difficult either. However, if you lack the needed training or experience to pull it off, we’d recommend you hire the services of a professional in order to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you some quick and easy steps to follow and ensure you make no errors during the installation process.

Once installed removing the Nest Thermostat can be done. To get started, you’ll need just a Philips head screwdriver which Nest has thoughtfully provided with the device.

• Turn off the Nest Thermostat by switching the circuit breaker to the off position.

• Label or mark your old thermostat’s wires. However, if you notice your thermostat is tagged 120v or 240v, or possesses thick wires, do not connect the wires to the Nest as you have a high voltage system.

• Uninstall the old thermostat by locating detaching the wires coming out from the wall into the thermostat. Once done, simply unscrew the device from the wall

• Mark the spot of your thermostat. Do this by threading wires through the Nest base plate’s centre incorporate the tiny bubble level. Once done, you can then use a pencil to mark te two screw holes.

• Attach the trim plate. If you wish to cover the screw holes, simply install the trim plate in the Nest box’s bottom to the base plate.

• Using the screws and screwdriver, attach the Nest base to the wall.

• Connect the wires to the Nest by putting the labelled wires in the Nest’s corresponding ports.

• Put the Nest display by lining up the connector on the display’s back.

• Turn on the power by switching the circuit breaker to the on position

• Connect your Nest thermostat to the WiFi network.

• Follow the on-screen guide and set the temperature.

• Use your smartphone or tablet to download the Nest thermostat’s mobile app to monitor and control your device remotely.