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Tree fellers tree surgery

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Welcome to tree fellers tree services . We are a team of experienced and qualified tree surgeons dedicated to providing hi...
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DH Electrical

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Hi I'm Danny from DH Electrical. I have been in the electrical industry for over 12 years covering industrial, commercial ...
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Phase 3 Electrical

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Phase 3 Electrical Installations Ltd is a family owned NICEIC Approved Contractor based in Thornton-Cleveleys, Lancashire....
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Atomus Electrical

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Qualified Electrician, Army veteran after 23 years service. Safety focused, will provide you with a service of the highest...
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Creative Cheshire Gardens

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Bespoke Garden Design in the heart of Cheshire Best fo affordable and stylish, reliable and modern garden design local ...

Recent Landscaper Enquiries

24 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH60

Enquiry from: Zoe S

Start Date: Immediate

Conifer hedge cuting back and shaping

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22 Apr

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Southport - PR9

Enquiry from: Paula M

Start Date: Immediate

front hedges at commercial property in banks are you the property owner: owner property type: commercial work required: hedges current state of garden: the garden is cleared do you have a: unsure gar...

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14 Apr

Garden | Decking

St. Helens - WA9

Enquiry from: Vivienne B

Start Date: Immediate

Measure supply and lay composite decking

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11 Apr

Garden | Decking

St. Helens - WA9

Enquiry from: Raymond B

Start Date: Immediate

I require a composite decking layed together with concrete balustrade

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09 Apr

Garden | Decking

Liverpool - L22

Enquiry from: Tarja O

Start Date: Immediate

Rebuild the decking little bit

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05 Apr

Garden | Decking

Liverpool - L12

Enquiry from: Vamshi C

Start Date: Immediate

build a wooden decking in the area of 10 by 5 are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what level of service do you require: supply and deck please call to appoi...

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25 Feb

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH63

Enquiry from: Bernard Q

Start Date: Immediate

Dig up flower beds remove weeds

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14 Nov

Garden | Landscaping

Wirral - CH63

Enquiry from: Lynne H

Start Date: Immediate

I want some paving taken up at the front of the house- about 1 metre x 6 m and a small square at the top - then soil put down and hedge/ similar and small tree planting. It’s not a very big job.

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07 Nov

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH48

Enquiry from: John G

Start Date: Immediate

General garden maintenance including flower beds and raised beds

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16 Sep

Garden | Landscaping

Liverpool - L12

Enquiry from: Mike P

Start Date: Immediate

want some grass taking up an a boarder taken away then prepare area put down indian sandstone to match exsisting

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15 Sep

Garden | Landscaping

Liverpool - L22

Enquiry from: Andrew E

Start Date: Immediate

Back yard concrete slabs broken up and flags put down

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14 Sep

Fencing | Wooden

Liverpool - L18

Enquiry from: John G

Start Date: Immediate

One of the panels in my front garden fence was blown over by the recent wind. Need repai/replacing

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03 Aug

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH49

Enquiry from: ROBERT G

Start Date: Immediate

mowing, weeding,small lawn + borders

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21 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Liverpool - L37

Enquiry from: Sarah C

Start Date: Immediate

A general garden clearance/tidy up. +/- price for potential paving of unused overgrown area of garden

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21 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Liverpool - L36

Enquiry from: Michael W

Start Date: Immediate

Lawn cutting and disposal, weeding, bush cutting and possible deck/patio cleaning.

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17 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH63

Enquiry from: Neil H

Start Date: Immediate

i need the gravel which covers the middle garden section in my small garden weeding. are you the property owner: owner property type: semi detached do you have a: small garden garden type: back garden...

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15 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wallasey - CH45

Enquiry from: Rimini A

Start Date: Immediate

I was just wondering if your able to help me with some garden maintenance In the area? Please see attached for the photos of the property to which you can see its rather overgrown. It will be for ...

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14 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH63

Enquiry from: Alicia H

Start Date: Immediate

Back garden mowed, 2 hedges trimmed. Front garden I do not want mowed, keeping flowers for the bees.

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12 Jul

Garden | Maintenance & Upkeep

Wirral - CH46

Enquiry from: Hilary H

Start Date: Immediate

Large sit on machine to cut big area of land.

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11 Jul

Garden | Decking

Liverpool - L36

Enquiry from: Michael W

Start Date: Immediate

grass cutting, weeding, bush trimming and general tidying of back garden. are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: semi detached do you have a: medium size garden garden type: back...

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How much do Landscaper services cost?

How much do Landscapers cost? Prices for Landscapers in 2025 can vary depending on the type of work that you want to have performed in your home.

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your outdoor area, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for an effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility (as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So, just how much do landscapers charge?

Just like most home improvement projects, the price of charged by landscapers is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the landscape, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscapers can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the landscaping services required. As a daily rate, professional landscapers tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a landscaper will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

The table reveals the sorts of work that Landscapers commonly do and also the typical cost range of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so prices do differ by task.

View our Landscaper cost guide View our Landscaper advice

The average price
of a Landscaper in Merseyside is:

£1,478

Landscaper job Landscaper cost in 2025
Wooden fencing in Merseyside £1,125-£1,725
Landscaping in Merseyside £2,250-£3,450
Garden maintenance and upkeep in Merseyside £188-£288
Wooden decking in Merseyside £1,125-£1,725
Artificial Grass in Merseyside £3,000-£4,600
Garden shed in Merseyside £450-£690
Garden lighting in Merseyside £320-£480
Driveway repair in Merseyside £1,520-£2,280
Lawn Care in Merseyside £130-£200

Related Landscaper searches in Merseyside

Landscaper FAQs

How much does fencing cost?

The most basic fencing starts at about £27 per panel. But if you want something that’s more decorative and better quality, expect to budget £30-£40 per panel.If you choose to get a professional to help you put up your fencing, they’ll probably be able to get your panels at a cheaper rate.

Will scarifying make the lawn better?

Everyone wants a good-looking lawn! If you’re wondering the best time to scarify your lawn, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider this in order to help you make the best-informed decision possible. Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is when your grass is actively growing. This is the best time to scarify a lawn as it enables it to recover faster once it has been scarified. What’s more? The conditions also have to be appropriate as extreme weather condition, be it too cold, too warm, too dry or too hot, will hinder the quick and proper recovery of your lawn. It’s also important to take note that scarifying of a lawn is going to leave the soil exposed which makes way for weed and other unwanted plants to grow.

 

During the year, there are two different times which tends to provide the most ideal conditions to scarify a lawn. The first of these periods is late March or April when the spring is in the air and your grass receives all the warmth and moisture it needs to thrive. It’s also advisable not to wait till too late in the spring as right after this period comes the heat and dryness of summer. Furthermore, the lawn shouldn’t be scarified too heavily during the spring as summer usually comes with weed seeds which means your grass won’t recover fast enough and weeds will quickly make way for themselves.

If you wish to scarify your lawn heavily, then the perfect time to do this would be in September or October – during autumn. During this period, the summer weed seeds would be gone and the grass will grow properly.

How to join artificial grass?
If you’re covering a larger area with artificial grass, you may need to join sections together. You can do this using self-adhesive joining tape, or joining tape and a separate adhesive. Steps to join artificial grass
  1. Unroll your two pieces of artificial grass, ensuring that the pile is running in the same direction. Fold over each piece by about 300m.
  2. To get the perfect seam, cut at least 3 tufts back, ensuring that you don’t trim any grass blades.
  3. Either remove the backing on your self-adhesive tape and unroll it down the centre of the join, or roll it out ensuring that the shiny side is down then fix at either end with adhesive.
  4. Fold over the grass onto the tape and bring each piece together, ensuring there’s a 2-3mm gap at the seam.
  5. Where the pile runs over the edge of the seam, fold over the artificial grass.
  6. Apply a small amount of adhesive under the edge of the first section of grass with a mastic gun, then add some to the front edge to stick the second piece.
  7. Bring the seam together, ensuring that you don’t get any grass blades stuck. Place a plank with some heavy objects on over the join to ensure that it dries securely.
It’s not that difficult to join artificial grass, but if you have any doubt leave it to the professionals. Get in touch with a few artificial grass companies who will be able to tell you how much it will cost to lay artificial turf for you.
How do I get rid of moss, mushrooms and weeds in my lawn?

Moss, mushrooms and weeds are all problems that many homeowners face on their lawns. Luckily, with a bit of maintenance, there are ways you can get rid of these unwanted organisms and prevent them from coming back. Getting rid of moss A simple way to remove moss from your lawn is by scarification. This basically means that you vigorously rake your lawn, but only do this in the autumn when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. However, you can also use specific weedkillers to control moss on your lawn, and most of these should be applied when the moss is actively growing. Apply in fine weather by hand or with a push-along spreader, making sure not to apply too much as you could kill off the grass too. Check the instructions, as some will require watering after 48 hours if it’s not rained. Then, get into a scarification routine to help prevent moss growth. Removing mushrooms from your lawn If you’ve got mushrooms in your lawn, it usually means that your lawn is damp and shaded, so it never dries out, and is organic waste-rich. There could be a drainage problem with your lawn that is encouraging mushroom growth, so it’s important to investigate why the mushrooms are growing to prevent them from returning once you’ve removed them. To get rid of mushrooms in your lawn, make sure you scarify your lawn and get rid of all the moss, thatch and dead grass that comes up. If you leave it, this is heaven for mushrooms to grow in. If your lawn is shaded, try to prune and thin surrounding trees to offer it more light. If you do all of these things, it will prevent mushrooms from growing in the future, and then it might be worth using a fungicide to get rid of the mushrooms that are there. But if you just do this step, it’s likely the mushrooms will just come back. How to get rid of weeds To get rid of weeds from your lawn, you can use selective weedkillers that will just kill the weeds and leave your grass alone. But if you’d rather not use weedkiller, you can get rid of weeds from your lawn manually. For large, deep-rooted weeds like dandelions or plantains, use a trowel to lever them out, ensuring that you get the whole plant including its roots. Then use compost to fill the hole it leaves behind, pushing it deeply into the hole. Sprinkle with fresh grass seed, cover with extra compost and water. Make sure you keep the area damp until the seed has germinated. To prevent moss, mushrooms or weeds from returning, the best things to do are:

  • Scarify your lawn in the autumn, and lightly in the spring if necessary
  • Seed your lawn in the autumn if you need to
  • Try to keep trees trimmed and pruned as much as possible to reduce shade
  • Use a pre-emergent weedkiller in the spring to catch them before they grow and handpick any that come through
  • Mow your lawn regularly in the spring and summer, being careful not to remove more than a third of grass at a time, then before winter give it one last mow and a fertilisation treatment

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
What do landscape gardeners charge?

What Do Landscape Gardeners Charge?

If you’ve decided to hire a landscaping professional for your gardening, you’ll probably be wondering how much it’s going to cost so you can start planning. A landscape garden serves a wide range of purposes from beautification of your surrounding and building to serving as a perfect spot for family and friends’ get-togethers and to brighten up one’s life. However, we must also note that the garden landscaping does not come cheap. In order to make it look great and send a clear message, there’s need for a effective and careful planning as well as consideration which perfectly combines both beauty and utility ( as not every landscaping idea works perfectly for every house). So just how much will landscape gardeners charge?

Just like most home improvement efforts, the cost of landscape gardening is influenced by a wide array of factors. These factors include the scope of the project, the size of the garden, the type of material and size of your patio, the cost of the plants and mulches, the professional daily or hourly rate as well as the unique treatment of the aesthetics of planting.

In general, landscape gardeners can charge as little as a price ranging from £15 to £20 and £45 per hour greatly influenced by the location as well as the gardening services required. As a daily rate, professional gardeners tend to charge about £140 to £200 per day. However, it should be noted that the major factors influencing the price that a gardener will charge is based on the area you live in as well as the size of your garden. For instance, if you live in an area with higher demands like London, you can expect to be charged a lot more than anywhere else.

how to repair a pothole in gravel driveways?

How To Repair A Pothole In Gravel Driveways

When the integrity of your gravel driveway is impaired not only does it have a negative impact on the curb appeal of your property, but also makes your driveway a danger zone. If your driveway needs to be repaired, you’d simply have to grab the bull by the horn and get it done - the sooner, the better to avoid the problem getting worse and to have your beautiful gravel driveway back as soon as possible.

The major cause of potholes in driveways is usually water, when it gets trapped beneath the surface of the driveway. Therefore, you may also want to enhance the drainage in the area as part of your repair. The repair process is quite simple for confident do-it-yourselfers, but if otherwise, then calling in a reliable professional will save you some time and extra money that can result from possible errors. So how do you repair gravel driveway potholes?

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing all forms of debris from the pothole. To achieve this, you can rake, shovel or brush the loose stones, soil and other debris from the pothole.

✓ Fill the pot hole. Make use of a coarse gravel to fill up the pothole to a depth of about 3 inches beneath the driveway’s level. Upon the filling, simply tamp down the coarse gravel using a commercial tamper or any available homemade option. Once done, the final 3 inches to the surface of the gravel driveway should then be filled up with gravel which perfectly matches the colour and texture of the remaining driveway.

✓ Compact the patch. To achieve this in an easy and fast way, simply run your car’s wheel up and down over the repaired spot gently a couple of times. This will be enough to compact the patch and seal the pothole.

How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.

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