Cleaning | Driveway / Decking
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Kirby M
Start Date: Immediate
Hi, I'm looking for a quote for render cleaning, gutter and roof cleaning please.
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Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Kirby M
Start Date: Immediate
Hi, I'm looking for a quote for render cleaning, gutter and roof cleaning please.
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Jim S
Start Date: Immediate
patio paving all, materials on site are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached do you require: other what work do you need to have done: patio roughly how big is the dr...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Barry V
Start Date: Immediate
replace 2 patios with porcelain tiles and replace part of the walk way with tiles. i would like a free quote after inspection are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Tim O
Start Date: Immediate
Black tarmac drive approx 8m x 4.5m with gravel boarder running the length of 2 sides of about 1 m deep
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Lorraine W
Start Date: Immediate
remove turf and replace with slabs and gravel. create terraces on existing slopes are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached garden type: back garden roughly the si...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: David A
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Work description: Small Patio garden requiring maintenance April to October - bi weekly (2 x per ...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Allen L
Start Date: Immediate
double drive way ashphelted are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached do you require: asphalt/tarmac roughly how big is the driveway area: 3 cars plus what level o...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Glynis M
Start Date: Immediate
Needs leveling where the drive meets the pavement as the drive has sunk on one side slightly Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Do you require: Asphalt/Tarmac Ro...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Glynis M
Start Date: Immediate
Needs leveling where the drive meets the pavement as the drive has sunk on one side slightly Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Do you require: Asphalt/Tarmac Ro...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Joan P
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Work description: Prune shrubs front garden, sort out patio back garden and 3 small beds...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Eddie M
Start Date: Immediate
path gate to side gate about 30m pathway
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Chris H
Start Date: Immediate
tarmac drive an parking area approx. 30yards x 10 yards Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached Do you require: Asphalt/Tarmac What work do you need to have done...
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Barry B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Customer visited the mydrivewayprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Detached, Property owner: Owner, Work description: Partial resurface area approx 16metres by 3 metres
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Albert E
Start Date: Less than one month
The house originally was the farmhouse with a yard around it and the tarmac is wearing thin and needs to be redone.
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Sarah E
Start Date: Immediate
Turning grass into patio area, approximately 42 paving slabs. Property Type: Semi detached What work is required: Patio What level of service do you require: Supply and lay Time scale: 1-3 months
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Mrs J
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Replace existing slab-and-gravel drive with block paving.
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Walter M
Start Date: Immediate
Drive to be tarmaced. Very long drive. Just under 1/4 mile.
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Mrs J
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
New drive to replace existing concrete slabs with gravel infill. Slopes downwards towards garage from road.
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Terry D
Start Date: Immediate
45 feet x 12 feet brazilian slate patio
Launceston - PL15
Enquiry from: Terry D
Start Date: Immediate
To build a slate 45foot x12 foot patio
Are you planning to install a driveway on your home or property? If yes, then you’ll most likely be interested to know exactly how much it’s going to cost. Well, to get started you’ll have to decide whether you’ll be doing this yourself or perhaps you’d be hiring a specialist. The project could be much more effective if you decide to tackle it on your own as you’re only going to be worried about the paying for the materials without any labour costs. However, installing a driveway is not the simplest of tasks even for the competent and more experienced DIYers. Therefore, if you choose to carry out the project on your own, you should also get ready for a longer completion time than it would have been if you hired a professional which is usually around 48 hours. If you have all the tools and materials in place before commencement, then it’s possible to complete the project over the weekend. However, there are many risks involved such as the possibility of misjudging the proper quantity of concrete mixture (for a concrete driveway) and more. So, how much does driveway installer charge?
Well, just like other home improvement projects, the amount charged by driveway installers depend on a number of factors like the type of driveway (concrete, asphalt, tarmac etc), size of the area, the experience of the professional, the property’s location and lots more. However, in general, the average cost of a driveway ranges between £35 to £85 per square metre. For labour costs, you can expect to pay between £200 to £450 per day based on the work’s complexity.
The table shows the sorts of task that Driveway Installers typically do as well as the regular cost series of these projects. Some jobs take longer to finish than others so costs do be very different by project.
View our Driveway Installer cost guide View our Driveway Installer adviceDriveway Installer job | Driveway Installer cost in 2025 |
---|---|
Tarmac paving and driveways in Launceston | £1,125-£1,725 |
Block paving in Launceston | £3,000-£4,600 |
Slab Paving and Driveway in Launceston | £1,875-£2,875 |
Driveway cleaning in Launceston | £225-£345 |
Gravel paving and driveways in Launceston | £3,000-£4,600 |
Pattern imprinted driveways in Launceston | £3,750-£5,750 |
Resin bound driveway in Launceston | £2,625-£4,025 |
Driveway repair in Launceston | £1,520-£2,280 |
Indian Stone Paving in Launceston | £2,000-£3,800 |
Pave Driveway in Launceston | £1,800-£3,100 |
There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.
How To Repair Sunken Concrete Driveway
If you have concrete driveway that’s cracked, uneven and mostly especially sunken, you’d know how distasteful it can be just viewing it on your property. A sunken concrete driveway is most likely caused by rainwater erosion removing the soil under it or a big root under it which as rotted over time. Another possible cause of the sunken concrete is an improperly prepared base which implies that the soil beneath wasn’t fully compact when the concrete was poured on it. Later on the soil beneath will eventually settle and shift below the concrete driveway which weakens the integrity of the entire driveway, making it more vulnerable to cracks, unevenness and sunken.
Two ways in which you can fix this problem includes either demolishing the whole driveway, re-compact the soil underneath and fill with new concrete or repair the entire driveway using an easy process called slabjacking. In this article, we’re going to look at the slabjacking repair process as it’s significantly less expensive than the demolishing approach and will also cause minimal disruption to your lifestyle.
Also referred to as mudjacking or concrete lifting, slabjacking is simply a process used to float your existing concrete back to its original position. If you are not a competent DIYer or lack confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend reach out to a professional for help. If otherwise, then you can practice the slabjacking process given below.
✓ Drill holes through the slab.
✓ Pump grout mixture through the holes. This mixture will spread out beneath he driveway and raise it up.
✓ Lastly, fill the holes and level the concrete driveway surface.in such a way to hide the signs of the repair made.
This is a process that works to efficiently get your driveway back in a top condition relatively quickly.
If you’re considering getting a new tarmac driveway or outside area, it’s important to know how long it takes to dry. Try to use it too early and you might damage it and ruin its appearance.
It won’t be long before you can walk on your new surface, as long as you’re careful. However, it’s a good idea to avoid putting heavy objects or driving on it for 2-3 days. For a more accurate timescale, ask your tarmac paving and driveway pro.
Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.
✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.
✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.
✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.
✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.
✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).
How To Lay Block Paving
Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.
lDesign
• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.
• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.
lExcavation
• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.
• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.
• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level
• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.
lEdge Restraints
• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.
• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.
• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.
• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.
lSubbase
• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.
• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level
lScreeding
• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.
• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.
• Level the second layer to the correct falls.
lInstallation Of Paving
• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.
• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.
• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.
lFinishing Touches
• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.
• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.
• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.
• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again
• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.
Clearing snow from a gravel driveway can be tricky – you need to remove the snow without taking the gravel with it.
If the snow’s quite light and dry, try using a leaf blower. You might find that this is enough to get the snow out the way. If it isn’t, start by using a shovel. Use this to clear the top layer of snow off your driveway, leaving about an inch behind. Then, use a rake to remove most of the remaining snow. This won’t take away 100% of the snow or leave all of your gravel in place, but it’s still pretty effective. You can then lay salt to melt away the rest of the snow and stop it turning into ice.
Gravel is the cheapest driveway surfacing material. Asphalt costs a little more than gravel, and concrete is significantly more expensive. The cost of paving depends on the material you use. Obtain as many quotes as possible as materials and costs differ from company to company.
Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.
The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.
Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.
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