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One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.

If you’re considering getting a new tarmac driveway or outside area, it’s important to know how long it takes to dry. Try to use it too early and you might damage it and ruin its appearance.

It won’t be long before you can walk on your new surface, as long as you’re careful. However, it’s a good idea to avoid putting heavy objects or driving on it for 2-3 days. For a more accurate timescale, ask your tarmac paving and driveway pro.

• Where you live
• How big you want your driveway to be
• What colour or design you would like
• Whether any additional work will need to be completed to prepare the area for the driveway

How To Repair Sunken Concrete Driveway

If you have concrete driveway that’s cracked, uneven and mostly especially sunken, you’d know how distasteful it can be just viewing it on your property. A sunken concrete driveway is most likely caused by rainwater erosion removing the soil under it or a big root under it which as rotted over time. Another possible cause of the sunken concrete is an improperly prepared base which implies that the soil beneath wasn’t fully compact when the concrete was poured on it. Later on the soil beneath will eventually settle and shift below the concrete driveway which weakens the integrity of the entire driveway, making it more vulnerable to cracks, unevenness and sunken.

Two ways in which you can fix this problem includes either demolishing the whole driveway, re-compact the soil underneath and fill with new concrete or repair the entire driveway using an easy process called slabjacking. In this article, we’re going to look at the slabjacking repair process as it’s significantly less expensive than the demolishing approach and will also cause minimal disruption to your lifestyle.

Also referred to as mudjacking or concrete lifting, slabjacking is simply a process used to float your existing concrete back to its original position. If you are not a competent DIYer or lack confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend reach out to a professional for help. If otherwise, then you can practice the slabjacking process given below.

✓ Drill holes through the slab.

✓ Pump grout mixture through the holes. This mixture will spread out beneath he driveway and raise it up.

✓ Lastly, fill the holes and level the concrete driveway surface.in such a way to hide the signs of the repair made.

This is a process that works to efficiently get your driveway back in a top condition relatively quickly.

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.

Your contractor should have access to your driveway and a power source. If they have these things, you don’t need to be there while they’re working on your driveway. However, it’s worth being around if you can so you can clarify details and answer any questions.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.

1. Prepare the base If you want your resin bound driveway to last a long time, you need to ensure that you prepare the base properly. Remove any block paving, grass or soil and dig down until you hit solid ground. Lay a sub-base of asphalt for good permeability. If you’re laying over the top of your current driveway, make sure that all cracks are increased into a ‘v’ shape with a saw and ensure the surface is dry and weed-free.
2. Mix the resin You must follow the instructions on the materials you have to the letter if you want the curing process to work. Usually batches come in ‘Part A’ and ‘Part B’. Keep the resin container secure and on a protective surface to avoid splashing, then mix Part A for 10-20 seconds at a slow speed with a helical bladed mixer. Add Part B and mix thoroughly at a slow speed for about 2 minutes until it’s blended together.
3. Mix the dried aggregates and sand with the resin Place a quarter of the aggregates into a mixer, then add the pre-mixed resin and start a stopwatch. You should then add the rest of the aggregates before slowly adding the sand. When you’re happy with that mix, stop the stopwatch. That time is the time that you need to spend mixing any other resin and aggregates to avoid colour variation.
4. Lay the mix on the surface Transfer the mix to the work area then plan a laying route. When the mix is laid out, use a very clean trowel to spread the mix. Clean it regularly during the process to avoid dragging aggregates out of place. Once the aggregates stop moving in a fluid movement and become solid, stop trowelling. Then you can polish the surface to give it an attractive shine.