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Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.

No, pattern imprinted concrete shouldn’t be slippery. Most good driveway installers will add a special anti-slip agent to the sealant before they brush it onto your driveway, so it will stop it from being slippery.

It’s important to ask a driveway company how they will seal your driveway when you get a quote from them. If an untrustworthy company seals your driveway badly, it can cause a thick and extremely slippery surface, so it’s vital that you ask any contractor what their procedure is before you engage them.

It’s also important to remember that pattern imprinted concrete isn’t a ‘non-slip’ surface – it’s just not slippery. You could still slip over on a concrete driveway, just like you could on tarmac or a block paved driveway. Also, once you’ve walked and driven over your driveway for a few months, its skid and slip resistance will increase as it weathers and builds up tiny specs of dirt on it. Pattern imprinted concrete is often used in high footfall areas in places like shops, fast food restaurants and theme parks, so if there was a significant slip risk these businesses wouldn’t use it.

You might think that you could ask your contractor not to seal the driveway to make it less slippery, but it could actually do the opposite. By sealing pattern imprinted concrete, it means that moss and algae is much less likely to grow, which can be extremely slippery to walk on if it’s left to its own devices. If moss does form on your driveway, the sealed surface is much easier to clean as you can simply pressure wash it away; this is not as easy to do on a non-sealed surface.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.

Do you know why paving slaps is a popular choice for both driveways and patios? Well, it’s the versatility! With its durability, diverse colour range, different styles as well as a timeless appeal, paving slabs happen to be a common choice amongst home owners. However, you should know that redeeming these benefits is not as simple as shovelling mortar and pressing down the paving slabs, and neither is it a case whereby you can just copy the laying process of a porcelain paving or block paving. Laying of paving slabs is on a whole other level! As a result, we’d recommend employing a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results the first time, especially if you lack proper training or experience to complete the task. In this step by step guide, you’ll discover more about the paving slabs laying process.

• Prepare your paving foundation. This includes checking that your foundation is level, marking out the area to be paved with wooden pegs, removing all vegetation and top soil to a depth of about 200mm to 250mm and raking the area level to ensure and even depth.

• Mix a layer of mortar for each paver and apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.

• Lay the slabs on top of the laying course at the lowest point of the area to be paved.

• Take note that you may need to cut some slabs depending on the paving area size, your chosen slabs and the pattern selected.

• Once done, brush the area clean and start jointing. The best way to do this is by applying kiln dried sand to the paved area and carefully brush into the joints with a brush.

• Push the sands into the joints using a plate compactor

• Check the paved area for any gaps and fill where necessary.

Resin bound driveways are known to last a long time without the need for repairs, but sometimes accidents happen. You also need to make sure you regularly maintain your driveway by sweeping and power washing it to prevent damage. But if it does get damaged, how do you repair your resin bound driveway?

If you notice a crack in your resin bound driveway, it’s important to repair it as soon as possible. If you leave it to erode, you could end up with a difficult repair that will cost much more money.

To repair a crack, you’ll need to carefully chisel it open slightly so you can apply a primer then fill in the crack with a matching-coloured resin and aggregate mix. While there are variations in colour and size with all stone mixes, usually it’s easy to find a batch that matches almost perfectly. And once the crack has been repaired for a while, it will blend in seamlessly with the rest of your driveway.

To prevent cracking in your resin bound driveway, it’s best to tackle the issue at initial installation. Speak to your installer about whether it’s possible to add fibreglass mesh to the base. You should also ask your installer to add expansion trims as these will significantly reduce the risks of cracks.

So the best way to repair resin bound driveways is to prise open the crack and fill it in. It might seem simple, but getting the right colour match is something that should be left to the professionals, so get a few quotes to ensure you get the best finish.

It’s up to you what size gravel you use for your driveway, but there are some guidelines that are worth following. If you go too small, your gravel will get displaced easily. But, if you go too big, you driveway might be quite tricky to walk on. Generally, it’s a good idea to go for a gravel size somewhere between 10-20mm.

Tarmac is a material made up of broken stone and tar, used for surfacing roads, driveways and other outdoor areas. It’s actually a registered product trademark, but many people use ‘tarmac’ interchangeably with ‘asphalt’. Asphalt is similar to tarmac, but is now more commonly used, and is made from bitumen instead of tar.

Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.

✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.

✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.

✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.

✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.

✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).