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Whether you think resin bound driveways are expensive or not will depend on your perception. While resin bound driveways are the most expensive up front, they should last much longer than other types of driveway. You should expect a resin bound driveway to last at least 25 years, if not longer, while a concrete or asphalt driveway may last between 15-20 years. A pattern imprinted driveway may last even less time due to the maintenance required to keep them looking pristine.

It’s also worth considering that resin bound driveways are good permeable surfaces, so will drain well and keep water from pooling around your property. This will keep your property maintenance costs down, since pooling water or flooding around your home could cause damp in your walls which is a very expensive problem to fix.

Resin bound driveways are by far the most attractive type of driveway to have. There are no loose stones to sweep up, no weeds to pull out from the gaps, and there’s no extensive power washing required to keep them looking good. If you want a driveway that gives your home true kerb appeal and you value your time, resin bound driveways don’t seem that expensive.

The other factor that can make resin bonded driveways less expensive is that sometimes you can lay them on top of the existing surface. For example, if you already have a concrete or asphalt driveway that is in good condition with no large cracks, a driveway contractor may be able to lay the resin and aggregate mix straight over the top, which will cost much less money than if you have to dig up the existing driveway and start from scratch.

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.

Some paving projects require you to cut paving slabs to make them fit into a smaller space. To do this, firstly you need to measure the slab and draw a line in pencil or chalk where you want to cut.

There are then several different ways you can cut the slab – you or your professional can choose the one you or they are most happy with. A hammer and chisel can work well, or a handheld saw. You can also use an angle grinder fitted with a stone-cutting disc.

The best way to clean resin bound driveways is to sweep it regularly with a stiff broom. This will remove any debris and prevent moss from growing. It's a good idea to jet wash it after sweeping, because this will get rid of any smaller parts that a broom might not collect.

When you jet wash or power wash your resin bound driveway, make sure the pressure isn’t too high. It’s recommended to keep the pressure less than 150bar, as anything too strong could damage the surface. Make sure the water is cool, but not cold – both hot and cold water can damage the resin. Make sure the jet wash nozzle is at least 20cm from the surface. Any closer and this could damage your driveway. Use a sweeping back and forth motion to clean.

If you treat the area before you have your resin bound driveway installed, you shouldn’t get any weed growth. But if you get any moss or algae appear, you can apply a moss and algae killer that should remove and prevent any regrowth. If you have ingrained algae, you can remove it with a strong bleach solution; make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. This should also help restore the driveway’s original colour. Make sure you rinse your driveway thoroughly with clean water after using bleach on it to prevent any harm to wildlife or plants.

If you get chewing gum on your resin bound driveway and you can’t get it off with a pressure washer, try using a freezing spray on it first. Then use a wall scraper to gently remove it – never dig under the chewing gum as this could damage the resin on your driveway.

Being a fantastic alternative to slabs or block paves, gravel drive way slowly becoming an extremely popular driveway surfacing option in the UK. Not only does gravel driveway value adding investment to a home, but also allows you to be very creative and can make a beautiful addition to your home.

It’s normal to think that having a new gravel laid is a herculean task but when the necessary tools and materials are within your reach then it’s a fair simple task for the competent DIYer. So if you’re about to lay your new gravel driveway option of your home and wondering how deep to dig the driveway, then you’ve come to the right place. There are times, however, that the best option would be to hire a reliable and trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results while also helping you save time and additional expenses which could result from costly mistakes. However, in this guide, we offer some handy tips on the appropriate depth of a gravel driveway in order to put you on the right path from the start. So let’s take a closer look!

Normally, it’s required to lay a a 10 mm aggregate on a depth which should be within the range of 30 mm to 40 mm. However in the case of driveway, this structure must be at least 50mm deep. As a result of this requirement, you’ll require to dig a minimum depth of about 50 mm to 60mm on your driveway. If you’re using a larger aggregate, it’s going to settle and bond together more easily than the smaller alternatives. Therefore, the depth of your driveway will mostly be determined by the size of the aggregate you opt for as well as how you intend to use the surface.

If your concrete driveway’s looking grubby, it’s best to try cleaning it with water and a brush, or a mild detergent. However, if this doesn’t work, it can be worth trying bleach.

Dilute your bleach down to 50% bleach and 50% water, and apply it to your driveway. Leave it for 10 minutes, then scrub it using gloves and a stiff brush. Finish by rinsing your driveway off with clean water.

It’s important to remember that bleach can stain certain surfaces and kill plants. So, if you’re concerned about materials and boarders around your driveway, it might be best to use a different type of detergent, like floor cleaner or degreaser.

To inexperienced people laying of paving slab isn’t much more than digging a little, purchasing little amount of mortar and pressing down the paving slabs. But how good would it have been if only it were that easy in real life? The truth is, in reality, laying paving slabs does not only require you to prepare your sub-base painstakingly and mix your mortar using the appropriate materials, but you’d also have to work with accurate and precise paver placements to guarantee the patio’s longevity. As a result, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you hire the services of a seasoned professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and extra cash that may result from possible costly errors. In this guide, you’d gain more insight into the paving slabs laying process.

To get started, you’ll need sharp sand, cement, shovel, wheelbarrow, pointing trowel, rubber mallet, spirit level, jointing compound, hard-bristled brush and tarpaulin.

• Mix a layer of mortar for each paver.

• Apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.

• Slot the first flag in place and ensure not to stain the paver’s surface with the mixed mortar.

• Using a rubber mallet, carefully tap the paver to the mortar bed. Once done, ensure the surface is even with a spirit level.

• Take a measurement of the gap between the pavers

• Repeat the above steps until all pavers have been perfectly laid

• Leave the pavers to dry for about 1 to 2 days. You can protect it using a tarpaulin if concerned about rain.

• Use the jointing compound to fill up the paver gaps to bind together the pavers. Ensure to wipe off any excess compound using the hard bristled brush.

1. Prepare the sub-baseThe driveway company will excavate, or dig, the existing surface down to a depth of around 200mm. They will remove any debris from the area may place it in a skip or arrange for it to be removed in another way. When they dig down to the sub-base of your previous driveway, they will assess how much hardcore they need and arrange for that to be delivered to the site. They will then spread the hardcore across the sub-base to create a level surface to pour the concrete on. Most good contractors will apply a gel to any walls and doors to protect them from concrete splashes. They will also add any gulley tops, manhole covers or shuttering that’s required.
2. Installation and imprintingNext, the tradespeople will have the concrete either poured from a large mixer vehicle or barrow it in from a mixer and pour onto the surface. They level it with rakes, then add a colour surface hardener in a colour of your choice. This will give the driveway its permanent colour. They will then wait until the concrete has hardened to the correct consistency for imprinting the pattern, then will use special tools and stencils to make the pattern that you asked for. They will then spread a colour powder called a release agent over the surface, and leave to dry for 1 to 2 days depending on the weather conditions.
3. CleaningWhen the contractors return, they will add crack control cuts into the concrete. This is important because concrete expands and contracts in the heat, so there needs to be some give to stop any larger cracks from forming. Then everything is power washed clean, and a chemical wash is also used on the concrete to ensure it’s completely dust-free. The installers will ensure all your walls and doors are clean, which will hopefully be an easy job if they used wall gel.
4. SealingThe final step is to seal the driveway. There needs to have been at least two dry days before the tradespeople can do it, so you might find it’s best to have your pattern imprinted driveway installed in the summer. The contractors will blow any debris away from the surface and dry any damp areas where necessary. They will then add an anti-slip agent to the sealant and brush it on. It’s best to not walk or drive onto your new concrete driveway for about 4 days after sealing to allow everything to set. But after that, you’re ready to use your new driveway!