Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in Birchington.

Whether you think resin bound driveways are expensive or not will depend on your perception. While resin bound driveways are the most expensive up front, they should last much longer than other types of driveway. You should expect a resin bound driveway to last at least 25 years, if not longer, while a concrete or asphalt driveway may last between 15-20 years. A pattern imprinted driveway may last even less time due to the maintenance required to keep them looking pristine.

It’s also worth considering that resin bound driveways are good permeable surfaces, so will drain well and keep water from pooling around your property. This will keep your property maintenance costs down, since pooling water or flooding around your home could cause damp in your walls which is a very expensive problem to fix.

Resin bound driveways are by far the most attractive type of driveway to have. There are no loose stones to sweep up, no weeds to pull out from the gaps, and there’s no extensive power washing required to keep them looking good. If you want a driveway that gives your home true kerb appeal and you value your time, resin bound driveways don’t seem that expensive.

The other factor that can make resin bonded driveways less expensive is that sometimes you can lay them on top of the existing surface. For example, if you already have a concrete or asphalt driveway that is in good condition with no large cracks, a driveway contractor may be able to lay the resin and aggregate mix straight over the top, which will cost much less money than if you have to dig up the existing driveway and start from scratch.

A patio is an outdoor space which can be used for a variety of stuffs which includes fun time with family and friends, reading time or just relaxing as the fresh breeze blows. With all these benefits and more, it’s becomes more obvious that there’s a need to keep your patio in a tip top condition at all times. If otherwise, you may not be able to enjoy your patio to your satisfaction and probably, for as long as you would want. You simply have to provide it with a regular maintenance which involves inspecting and identifying the damages that needs to be repaired before it gets out of hand. Fortunately, the minor repairs can be done by yourself if you’re confident enough. However, for bigger damages it’s advisable to call in a professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the patio reparation process.

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing the problem piece gently and carefully. If there’s a piece you think can still be useful, store it in the re-use pile or you can start a new one. Once you’re done removing the pieces, the next thing to do would be to start removing anything that’s unwanted from the damaged area like debris, unwanted soil etc, and start sand fitting with some fresh sand. This should be levelled out to ensure there’s no bumps.

✓ With the sand down, you can start by putting the pieces back in together. This should be done gently to avoid any further damage. Do this until your patio

✓

There’s no doubt that weeds coming through your block paving can be unsightly and annoying. But, it’s relatively easy to get rid of weeds that are growing in the joints between your block paving. To start, pull out the larger weeds, and then you can use a pressure washer or firm bristled brush to remove the smaller weeds and debris from the joints in your block paving. It’s best to then refill the joints with additional sand to ensure your block paving remains level. Regularly brushing your block paving and treating with weed killer will help to prevent the weeds from reoccurring.

Gravel driveways are very popular in the UK for a reason. Not only do they provide a more natural look than other driveway surfacing options and happens to be quite affordable, but they’re also very easy to install and maintain. And more importantly, they have a great range of colour scheme to match and compliment your brickwork and plants to make for an alluring outdoor living space.

Are you also planning to install a gravel driveway? You’ve come to the right place! If you’re a competent DIYer with confidence, then this should be as easy as they come. If otherwise, then it’s advisable to hire a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll shed more light on the gravel driveway installation process. Let’s get started!

✓ Prepare the floor. To get a level and flat floor, you’ll have to clear the area of all weeds, paving slabs, block paving etc. Get a good foundation material to apply to the surface if you have an uneven surface or if you have potholes to fill.

✓ Stop the weeds. You’ll have to apply an anti-weed membrane so you won’t have stubborn weeds growing through your finished driveway.

✓ Spread the gravel. In the process of purchasing your gravel, ensure to select handy bags, bulk bags if tipped loose. If you go for the bags there may be a need of wheelbarrow to help move the gravel around, however with a tipped loose you can have the gravel chippings tipped directly on to the driveway.

✓ Make use of the hose. It’s possible that when your gravel arrives, it’ll be be dusty. Make use of an hose to run over the driveway to bring out the true colours of your driveway.

1. Prepare the sub-baseThe driveway company will excavate, or dig, the existing surface down to a depth of around 200mm. They will remove any debris from the area may place it in a skip or arrange for it to be removed in another way. When they dig down to the sub-base of your previous driveway, they will assess how much hardcore they need and arrange for that to be delivered to the site. They will then spread the hardcore across the sub-base to create a level surface to pour the concrete on. Most good contractors will apply a gel to any walls and doors to protect them from concrete splashes. They will also add any gulley tops, manhole covers or shuttering that’s required.
2. Installation and imprintingNext, the tradespeople will have the concrete either poured from a large mixer vehicle or barrow it in from a mixer and pour onto the surface. They level it with rakes, then add a colour surface hardener in a colour of your choice. This will give the driveway its permanent colour. They will then wait until the concrete has hardened to the correct consistency for imprinting the pattern, then will use special tools and stencils to make the pattern that you asked for. They will then spread a colour powder called a release agent over the surface, and leave to dry for 1 to 2 days depending on the weather conditions.
3. CleaningWhen the contractors return, they will add crack control cuts into the concrete. This is important because concrete expands and contracts in the heat, so there needs to be some give to stop any larger cracks from forming. Then everything is power washed clean, and a chemical wash is also used on the concrete to ensure it’s completely dust-free. The installers will ensure all your walls and doors are clean, which will hopefully be an easy job if they used wall gel.
4. SealingThe final step is to seal the driveway. There needs to have been at least two dry days before the tradespeople can do it, so you might find it’s best to have your pattern imprinted driveway installed in the summer. The contractors will blow any debris away from the surface and dry any damp areas where necessary. They will then add an anti-slip agent to the sealant and brush it on. It’s best to not walk or drive onto your new concrete driveway for about 4 days after sealing to allow everything to set. But after that, you’re ready to use your new driveway!

Gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving can all be permeable. However, some types of asphalt and concrete are impermeable. This is why it’s important to be precise about what material you want for your driveway. If you want a permeable driveway, you should also make sure that your sub-base is also permeable.

The most commonly used driveway surfacing materials are gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving - which can be block, slabbed or patten imprinted. Take a look at our product information pages to help you decide which one to use and which one will look best for your driveway.

How To Lay Block Paving

Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.

lDesign

• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.

• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.

lExcavation

• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.

• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.

• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level

• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.

lEdge Restraints

• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.

• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.

• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.

• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.

lSubbase

• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.

• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level

lScreeding

• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.

• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.

• Level the second layer to the correct falls.

lInstallation Of Paving

• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.

• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.

• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.

lFinishing Touches

• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.

• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.

• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.

• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again

• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.