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It’s always a good idea to be sure of how you’re going to keep the annoying gravel spillage off your driveway way before its installation, however, if you’ve already done so, it’s better late than never. We all know how great a gravel driveway can look when the gravels manage to stay in place. When gravel is used on a driveway it provides a great transition from the normal hardness of a driveway to the organic softness of the lawn which doesn’t retain water or gush runoff during irrigation or rainfall. Unfortunately, the sad thing here is gravel don’t just like to stay put. Before long, if ignored, you’d realize your hard surfaces will almost be covered with gravel coming in from the side. So what’s the solution to this rather annoying situation?

Here, we’ll show you just how you can keep your gravel in place in your driveway. Let’s take a look!

The solution here is simple - simply make use of Pour On. With Pour On, you won’t have to think about of clearing out your gravel features to put an end to the issue of loose rocks spilling on your hard surfaces. With Pour On, you’ll be able to hold your gravel in place for several years to come. And even more importantly, it’s able to achieve this objective while also protecting the integrity the existing permeability of your driveway. What’s more? It also goes a long way to retain the natural look provided by your gravel driveway which makes it the perfect solution to the annoying gravel spillage issues.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.

Do you know why paving slaps is a popular choice for both driveways and patios? Well, it’s the versatility! With its durability, diverse colour range, different styles as well as a timeless appeal, paving slabs happen to be a common choice amongst home owners. However, you should know that redeeming these benefits is not as simple as shovelling mortar and pressing down the paving slabs, and neither is it a case whereby you can just copy the laying process of a porcelain paving or block paving. Laying of paving slabs is on a whole other level! As a result, we’d recommend employing a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results the first time, especially if you lack proper training or experience to complete the task. In this step by step guide, you’ll discover more about the paving slabs laying process.

• Prepare your paving foundation. This includes checking that your foundation is level, marking out the area to be paved with wooden pegs, removing all vegetation and top soil to a depth of about 200mm to 250mm and raking the area level to ensure and even depth.

• Mix a layer of mortar for each paver and apply the mixed mortar onto the sub base by using the trowel.

• Lay the slabs on top of the laying course at the lowest point of the area to be paved.

• Take note that you may need to cut some slabs depending on the paving area size, your chosen slabs and the pattern selected.

• Once done, brush the area clean and start jointing. The best way to do this is by applying kiln dried sand to the paved area and carefully brush into the joints with a brush.

• Push the sands into the joints using a plate compactor

• Check the paved area for any gaps and fill where necessary.

• Where in the country you live
• What colour you choose
• What pattern you choose
• Whether you choose a standard or a higher-quality concrete

Pitting, also referred to as spalling is the event whereby “pits” or small holes start showing on the surface of your concrete driveway which makes it appear both worn and uneven. Concrete driveway pitting is a common but highly frustrating problem for most homeowners. You’ll see some concrete driveways that’ll only start to pit after a couple of years, but this is not true for all concrete driveways as others will start to show signs only after a couple of months. So how do you tackle this issue? Well, it’s relatively simple to tackle, however if you’re not confident or lack the necessary skills, we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the concrete driveway pitting repair process.

✓ Prepare the pits by cleaning the area, clearing out all debris and more. The small pits can be cleaned with a stiff brush while a sturdy broom will do a good job for larger pits.

✓ Make use of a hose to spray the concrete pits and flush out all remaining bits of waste.

✓ If you’re tackling series of small pits, simply use a caulking gun filled with pre-mixed epoxy and specially formulated for concrete to fill the pits. Clear off the excess eproxy ensuring that its level with the concrete surface. Once done, simply leave for at least 24 hours before the application of a concrete sealant to prevent the wear and tear of the new concrete.

✓ Chisel out a little concrete and clean with a pressure washer. Once done, apply a concrete resurfacing compound mixture into the holes and use a trowel to level off.

✓ Ensure that the repaired concrete driveway is protected from rain and foot traffic for at least 6 hours (or 24 hours for vehicles).

Is there a hole in your asphalt driveway you feel you can repair yourself? If it’s something you know you can confidently do then this step by step guide is just for you. If otherwise, then we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results while also saving you some time and extra money that could result from possible errors. In this article, we’d go over the reparation process of an asphalt driveway with a hole in it.

✓ Get the necessary tools. You’re going to need a broom ( to clean the area), caulking gun ( to fill the hole), a hand tamp a plate compactor or a hammer ( to level the filled in hole) and a weeding glove (just in case there are weeds growing in the hole).

✓ Prepare the area. Do this by weeding the plants or weeds that might have grown inside the hole and identify your asphalt filler.

✓ Wet your soil, if necessary. It’s important to note that this is only necessary if your soil is dry to help the filler stick properly.

✓ Fill in deep holes. If the hole goes down about 3 to 4 inches or more, simply fill it with any material like rocks, clay etc.

✓ Apply the asphalt filler. Fill the hole with the asphalt filler to about half an inch higher than the surface of the driveway.

✓ Level the filler. For a large hole, make use of a plate compactor or a hand stamp, but a hammer will be sufficient for smaller holes.

✓ Cover the hole, if necessary. If your home isn’t level, covering your hole with a piece of plywood is advisable.

✓ Clean off the seal. After the asphalt looks done and in place, simply brush away the debris from the seal to finish off the project.

Gravel driveways, when properly installed, can be a very cost effective way of surfacing all driveways including both the big and the small ones. As a result, it has grown to become a common choice amongst homeowners in the UK. It does a great job at giving a property a more natural look than other driveway surfacing options which includes concrete, block paving or tarmac.

Are you planning to install a gravel on your driveway? If yes, then you’ll most likely be interested to know exactly how much it’s going to cost. Well, to get started you’ll have to decide whether you’ll be doing this yourself or perhaps you’d be hiring a specialist. The project could be much more effective if you decide to tackle it on your own as you’re only going to be worried about the paying for the materials without any labour costs. However, installing a driveway is in no way an easy task even for the competent and more experienced DIYers. So if you choose to carry out the project on your own, you should also get ready for a longer completion time than it would have been if you hired a tradesman which is usually around 48 hours. If you have all the tools and materials in place before commencement, then it’s possible to complete the project over the weekend. However, there are many risks involved such as the possibility of misjudging the amount of base layer and gravel required etc.

Here, we’ll look at the various material costs of gravel driveways, as labour costs largely varies from one tradesman to the other.

The material cost of a gravel driveway of about 20 square metre should range between £1100 to £1200, 40 square metre should cost between £1600 to £2000 and 80 square metre gravel driveway should cost between £2800 to £3200.

Creating a tarmac path or driveway is a tricky process. It’s a job best left to professionals who know what they’re doing, as there are plenty of opportunities for it go wrong. However, even if you’re planning to hire someone to do it for you, it’s worth knowing how it’s done.

Firstly, you’ll need to remove any existing path or driveway and excavate down to formation level – about 175mm below paving level. Then, a membrane is laid down to prevent weed growth.

Next, a sub-base goes down, usually made of crushed rock or concrete. This is compacted and the tarmac is laid over the top. This is put down in two layers, and is rolled to make it compact and smooth.

It’s important to use edging when laying tarmac, to ensure that it doesn’t run off where you want your path or driveway to be. Tarmac paving and driveways also needs suitable drainage.