Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in Fleetwood.

Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.

Being a fantastic alternative to slabs or block paves, gravel drive way slowly becoming an extremely popular driveway surfacing option in the UK. Not only does gravel driveway value adding investment to a home, but also allows you to be very creative and can make a beautiful addition to your home.

It’s normal to think that having a new gravel laid is a herculean task but when the necessary tools and materials are within your reach then it’s a fair simple task for the competent DIYer. So if you’re about to lay your new gravel driveway option of your home and wondering how deep to dig the driveway, then you’ve come to the right place. There are times, however, that the best option would be to hire a reliable and trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results while also helping you save time and additional expenses which could result from costly mistakes. However, in this guide, we offer some handy tips on the appropriate depth of a gravel driveway in order to put you on the right path from the start. So let’s take a closer look!

Normally, it’s required to lay a a 10 mm aggregate on a depth which should be within the range of 30 mm to 40 mm. However in the case of driveway, this structure must be at least 50mm deep. As a result of this requirement, you’ll require to dig a minimum depth of about 50 mm to 60mm on your driveway. If you’re using a larger aggregate, it’s going to settle and bond together more easily than the smaller alternatives. Therefore, the depth of your driveway will mostly be determined by the size of the aggregate you opt for as well as how you intend to use the surface.

1. Prepare the sub-baseThe driveway company will excavate, or dig, the existing surface down to a depth of around 200mm. They will remove any debris from the area may place it in a skip or arrange for it to be removed in another way. When they dig down to the sub-base of your previous driveway, they will assess how much hardcore they need and arrange for that to be delivered to the site. They will then spread the hardcore across the sub-base to create a level surface to pour the concrete on. Most good contractors will apply a gel to any walls and doors to protect them from concrete splashes. They will also add any gulley tops, manhole covers or shuttering that’s required.
2. Installation and imprintingNext, the tradespeople will have the concrete either poured from a large mixer vehicle or barrow it in from a mixer and pour onto the surface. They level it with rakes, then add a colour surface hardener in a colour of your choice. This will give the driveway its permanent colour. They will then wait until the concrete has hardened to the correct consistency for imprinting the pattern, then will use special tools and stencils to make the pattern that you asked for. They will then spread a colour powder called a release agent over the surface, and leave to dry for 1 to 2 days depending on the weather conditions.
3. CleaningWhen the contractors return, they will add crack control cuts into the concrete. This is important because concrete expands and contracts in the heat, so there needs to be some give to stop any larger cracks from forming. Then everything is power washed clean, and a chemical wash is also used on the concrete to ensure it’s completely dust-free. The installers will ensure all your walls and doors are clean, which will hopefully be an easy job if they used wall gel.
4. SealingThe final step is to seal the driveway. There needs to have been at least two dry days before the tradespeople can do it, so you might find it’s best to have your pattern imprinted driveway installed in the summer. The contractors will blow any debris away from the surface and dry any damp areas where necessary. They will then add an anti-slip agent to the sealant and brush it on. It’s best to not walk or drive onto your new concrete driveway for about 4 days after sealing to allow everything to set. But after that, you’re ready to use your new driveway!

Gravel, asphalt, concrete and paving can all be permeable. However, some types of asphalt and concrete are impermeable. This is why it’s important to be precise about what material you want for your driveway. If you want a permeable driveway, you should also make sure that your sub-base is also permeable.

Your contractor should have access to your driveway and a power source. If they have these things, you don’t need to be there while they’re working on your driveway. However, it’s worth being around if you can so you can clarify details and answer any questions.

Have you decided to install block paving and wondering what the best sand to be applied to the joints is in order to achieve a perfect job? Well, you’re at the right place! This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to block paving and we seek to give you a reliable solution once and for all.

The best sand for block paving is a kiln-dried sand. It’s an extremely fine sand which has been dried in a kiln to get rid of all the water before it’s incorporated to achieve the best results. Therefore, the sand contains no moisture and is commonly used to fill the joints of block paving to keep the paving’s structure rigid and strong. It also goes a long way to prevent the ingress of water while stopping the paving from moving and becoming loose. The major reason why the paving sand must be dried is to allow it flow easily into the joints as well as the block paving’s gaps. As result of this smooth flowing to the bottom of the joints, there will be no sand sticking to the sides of the pavers.

Another major reason why kiln-dried sand is commonly applied to the block paving’s joints is to prevent water from penetrating the paved area. It also tightens the individual pavers together to prevent from moving and becoming loose. In the event whereby you happen to leave the joints of your block paving without kiln dried sand, it’s highly likely that they’ll sink as a result of water penetration and the blocks will become very loose. After washing block paving, it’s very important to also replace any sand washed off in the process once the paving is dried to prevent water ingress into the joints.

Removing oil from block paving can be tricky, and a professional clean and re-point is often the best option. However, for small stains, especially recent ones, it’s worth attempting to clean it yourself. To do this, you can purchase oil remover or driveway cleaning solutions – although be careful, as some may stain or mark certain kinds of paving stones. In general, stay away from acid based cleaners.

If your concrete driveway’s looking grubby, it’s best to try cleaning it with water and a brush, or a mild detergent. However, if this doesn’t work, it can be worth trying bleach.

Dilute your bleach down to 50% bleach and 50% water, and apply it to your driveway. Leave it for 10 minutes, then scrub it using gloves and a stiff brush. Finish by rinsing your driveway off with clean water.

It’s important to remember that bleach can stain certain surfaces and kill plants. So, if you’re concerned about materials and boarders around your driveway, it might be best to use a different type of detergent, like floor cleaner or degreaser.