Find a Driveway Installer you can trust in Skipton.

Gravel driveways, when properly installed, can be a very cost effective way of surfacing all driveways including both the big and the small ones. As a result, it has grown to become a common choice amongst homeowners in the UK. It does a great job at giving a property a more natural look than other driveway surfacing options which includes concrete, block paving or tarmac.

Are you planning to install a gravel on your driveway? If yes, then you’ll most likely be interested to know exactly how much it’s going to cost. Well, to get started you’ll have to decide whether you’ll be doing this yourself or perhaps you’d be hiring a specialist. The project could be much more effective if you decide to tackle it on your own as you’re only going to be worried about the paying for the materials without any labour costs. However, installing a driveway is in no way an easy task even for the competent and more experienced DIYers. So if you choose to carry out the project on your own, you should also get ready for a longer completion time than it would have been if you hired a tradesman which is usually around 48 hours. If you have all the tools and materials in place before commencement, then it’s possible to complete the project over the weekend. However, there are many risks involved such as the possibility of misjudging the amount of base layer and gravel required etc.

Here, we’ll look at the various material costs of gravel driveways, as labour costs largely varies from one tradesman to the other.

The material cost of a gravel driveway of about 20 square metre should range between £1100 to £1200, 40 square metre should cost between £1600 to £2000 and 80 square metre gravel driveway should cost between £2800 to £3200.

Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.

No, pattern imprinted concrete shouldn’t be slippery. Most good driveway installers will add a special anti-slip agent to the sealant before they brush it onto your driveway, so it will stop it from being slippery.

It’s important to ask a driveway company how they will seal your driveway when you get a quote from them. If an untrustworthy company seals your driveway badly, it can cause a thick and extremely slippery surface, so it’s vital that you ask any contractor what their procedure is before you engage them.

It’s also important to remember that pattern imprinted concrete isn’t a ‘non-slip’ surface – it’s just not slippery. You could still slip over on a concrete driveway, just like you could on tarmac or a block paved driveway. Also, once you’ve walked and driven over your driveway for a few months, its skid and slip resistance will increase as it weathers and builds up tiny specs of dirt on it. Pattern imprinted concrete is often used in high footfall areas in places like shops, fast food restaurants and theme parks, so if there was a significant slip risk these businesses wouldn’t use it.

You might think that you could ask your contractor not to seal the driveway to make it less slippery, but it could actually do the opposite. By sealing pattern imprinted concrete, it means that moss and algae is much less likely to grow, which can be extremely slippery to walk on if it’s left to its own devices. If moss does form on your driveway, the sealed surface is much easier to clean as you can simply pressure wash it away; this is not as easy to do on a non-sealed surface.

There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.

Cleaning block paving is a fairly straightforward task, although you’ll want to be careful to not use any chemicals that may cause damage to the surface. Use a simple household soap, mixed with water, and brush this across the paving with a stiff brush. Then, simply rinse off with clean water. Alternatively, use a pressure washer – but be careful not to use it on a powerful setting, as this may damage the joints and can cause slabs to come loose. Using the pressure washer on a medium setting and at a 45 degree angle is recommended.

The best way to clean resin bound driveways is to sweep it regularly with a stiff broom. This will remove any debris and prevent moss from growing. It's a good idea to jet wash it after sweeping, because this will get rid of any smaller parts that a broom might not collect.

When you jet wash or power wash your resin bound driveway, make sure the pressure isn’t too high. It’s recommended to keep the pressure less than 150bar, as anything too strong could damage the surface. Make sure the water is cool, but not cold – both hot and cold water can damage the resin. Make sure the jet wash nozzle is at least 20cm from the surface. Any closer and this could damage your driveway. Use a sweeping back and forth motion to clean.

If you treat the area before you have your resin bound driveway installed, you shouldn’t get any weed growth. But if you get any moss or algae appear, you can apply a moss and algae killer that should remove and prevent any regrowth. If you have ingrained algae, you can remove it with a strong bleach solution; make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. This should also help restore the driveway’s original colour. Make sure you rinse your driveway thoroughly with clean water after using bleach on it to prevent any harm to wildlife or plants.

If you get chewing gum on your resin bound driveway and you can’t get it off with a pressure washer, try using a freezing spray on it first. Then use a wall scraper to gently remove it – never dig under the chewing gum as this could damage the resin on your driveway.

Are you having weed problems on your carefully picked out block pavings? After spending huge bucks to install the block pavings, the last thing any homeowner would want to discover is weed taking over the prized asset. Fortunately, this is a problem that can be effectively handled in a few simple steps provided in this article.

Basically, sealing of block paving is all about prevention of weed growth in the area by total weed removal, putting of sand between the block paving joints and sealing with a good quality sealant. This is a task that’s best left for a reliable professional to guarantee the best results especially if you lack proper training and experience. This guide will give a good insight into the process.

Here are the equipment you’ll need to get started: pressure washer, weed killer, bin bag, broom, small brush, protective gear, sealing roller, spueegee, jointing sand and sealer and DIY sprayer.

lRemove The Weed

• Put on a protective clothing and gloves

• Get a weed disposal bag to clean while you go.

• Apply the selected weed killer on both areas where weeds are present and the absent ones to prevent any growing.

lPressure Washing

• Angle your pressure washer between the gaps. This is done to remove all weeds and debris that are still lying around as well as removing all possible chemical residues to create a thorough clean between the paving slab.

• Leave the washed area to dry.

l Sand The Joints

• Check the weather forecast to ensure there’s about 24 to 48 hours of dryness as its important for both sand and sealant to do a perfect job.

• Put sand between the gaps and push it down with your small brush until its levelled.

lSeal The Gaps

• The sealing process should be done immediately and sanding.

• Clean up the patio

• Perform a test using a small area

• Apply the sealant

• Apply the second of sealant

• Leave to dry for about 2 to 3 hours.

Oil stains on your concrete driveway can look obvious and unsightly. However, there are several different ways to remove them.

If you’ve only just spilled the oil, you can use a mixture of absorbent material, like sawdust, and solvent, like acetone or lacquer. Combine these, place them on the stain, cover and leave for about 24 hours. Then sweep up the mixture and rinse the area with water.

If you’ve got a small, older stain, you can use a detergent like baking soda, vinegar, washing up liquid or laundry detergent. Cover the stain with the detergent and leave for about 30 minutes. Then, add hot water and scrub the area and rinse. You might need to repeat this if necessary.

If it’s a larger, more stubborn stain, you might need to use a special degreaser. You can use this similarly to a detergent but make sure you follow the instruction on the bottle carefully.