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How Much Is A New Flat Roof

What is a home without a roof to keep out the elements? Being the first line of defence against intense sun, rain, wind and more, implies they require enough care and attention to keep them in a top condition. Therefore, whether you need a new flat roof or just to replace some tiles, you’d be interested in knowing how much it would cost you to get a new roof before you start making the necessary plans. Here, we’ll give you an idea on the cost of a new flat roof and how you can estimate yours based on your unique requirements.

The size of your roof as well as the material to be used are the two main determinants of any flat roof project’s cost. For instance, a four bedroom detached home’s slate roof will be more expensive than a felted flat roof for a small or standard garage. Generally, in the UK, the average cost for replacing a flat roof will range between £5000 to £6000. However, if you’re on a tight budget and looking for the cheapest possible option, you’ll get a felt flat roof only on a garage at about £1000 to £1500. Meanwhile if you want to replace the entire slate tiles of a large family home, the cost can jump up to a range of £11000 to £13000.

Other factors that plays a key role in the determination of a new flat roof’s cost includes the location, labour as well as materials. For instance, a new flat roof price is likely to be higher in London and the south east than the other regions of the country. Also, labour may cost you around £150 to £250 per worker on a daily basis.

In general, no – you don’t need planning permission for a Velux window. The Planning Portal says that you don’t need to apply for planning permission to install a roof window if the following conditions are met:

• A roof window must not protrude more than 150 millimetres above the existing roof plane
No roof window or any other alteration can be higher than the highest part of the roof or stand out above the roof ridge
• Side-facing windows must have obscure glazing to protect privacy of neighbours and, if they open, they must be 1.7 metres above the floor of the room in which they are installed

You don’t need to apply for planning permission for a roof window because they are covered under permitted development rights. However, if you’re a leaseholder or you live in a building where your local authority has made an Article 4 Direction, you will have to apply. Usually, an Article 4 Direction is made when you live in a conservation area where any external home improvements could affect the character and look of the area. Luckily, there are special Velux windows that are designed to be more likely to be accepted by your local planning authority. They’re called conservation windows and, although there’s still no guarantee that they will be accepted, they are designed to look more traditional. Even if you don’t need planning permission for your roof window, you still need to follow any relevant building regulations for your local authority. The most important parts for Velux windows are section J and section L of building regulations, which refer to energy efficiency, thermal insulation and fire protection.

Clean of your conservatory gutter is probably not one of the most enjoyable chores you’d like to take on around the house. Not only is it messy and tedious, but it’s also time consuming and smelly. It’s a job every home and property owner would rather avoid, but unfortunately everyone has to do it. It’s a necessity due to the fact that neglect gutters holds and harbours mould, moss as well as plant debris. It would have been better if this is only disgusting, but the actual truth is that should be the least of your worries as this gradual build up of organic material in your conservatory gutters can minimize their drainage abilities, leading to leakages and spills that can damage your conservatory.

Cleaning of your conservatory gutter is a task that can be done regardless of your level of experience. However, it’s advisable to call in a professional for help especially if you lack the confidence required to pull it off.

• Use a ladder for a closer look. Cleaning your gutters from the ground by poking it with a hooked tool might seem the best way out, but in truth you risk damaging the gutters or brackets and marking the conservatory panes when you don’t see what you’re doing.
• Invest in specialist tools. For expert DIYers, taking off your downpipes from the wall to clean might be a pretty easy task. However, for most people it can be extremely frustrating. As a result, there’s the need to get hold of some flexible gutter brushes. With a bendable stem and stiff bristles, these are able to hook and dislodge dirt and leaves inside your downpipes with relative ease.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.

A pitched roof is a type of roof that is defined to have a sloping surface that has an angle that is greater than 20 degrees. Pitched roofs offer a more classical appearance. They remain the most communal and effective answer in wet and cold weathers to guarantee all-out protection.

Eaves

In the roof, the lower part of the inclined roof which is prominent outside the external face of the wall. The chief purpose of eaves is to pour the rainwater from the roof straight on the exterior wall. It also provides protection from sunlight. Eaves are sometimes decorated to an architectural beauty.

Gable

The Three-sided higher part of the wall at the end of a ridge roof.

Flashing

A band of impermeable material, typically metal, used to eliminate water from the intersection between a roof covering and another part of the structure. Flashings are provided to stop moisture from inflowing the wall and roof through joints in copings, parapet wall, and other infiltrations through the roof plane.

Hip

The Hip is defined as the exterior angle, which is generally greater than 180 degrees, which is formed at the inclined ridge of the roof slopes.

Ridge

The ridge is defined as the horizontal intersection made by the rising roof surfaces that are inclined in opposite directions.

Purlins

Purlins are the horizontal members which are laid on the principal rafters which help to support the common rafter of a roof. This is usually done when the span is large. Purlins are made from wood or steel. The top surfaces of the purlins intend to be unvarying and plane.

Fascia

This is the wooden board that is fixed to the feet of the common rafter at eaves. The Fascia helps the lowest ends of the roof covering material to rest on it.

Rafter

One of the major structural components of a pitched roof is a rafter. The rafter generally begins for the support of the roof to the ridge or hip. The purlin is supported by equally spaced rafters used side by side.

Chimney liners are a very important component of the chimney, but the fact is most home and property owners either continue to overlook them or aren’t even aware of their existence. This is, however, quite understandable given the fact that they usually last a long period of time – more than 50 years. To ensure that they last that long, the question that arises is, do chimney liners need to be swept and cleaned? The short and simple answer to this question is yes, chimney liners definitely needs to be cleaned on a frequent basis. A chimney liner happens to be an essential part of your chimney. When it’s not cleaned, it tends to accumulate dust, soot and dirt which can give rise to a number of problems you’d rather want to avoid. Chimney liner are able to provide adequate protection to your flue but even at that the water, creosote and other contaminant build up can make the liner to deteriorate, and making it unsafe for usage. In other words, contrary to several belief, chimney liners do need the same amount of cleaning as chimneys without liners. Failure to sweep your chimney liners can give rise to the following problems:

• Creosote buildup. If your main source of fire is wood, then you’ll definitely have creosote present in your chimney. This is highly combustible and its buildup may lead to fire outbreak.
• Carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is said to be on the rise by NCBI and its primarily generated from heating systems which are terribly ventilated as a result of uncleaned or dirty chimneys.

How To Replace A Broken Roof Tile?

If you have a broken roof tile on your property, the next logical step to take is having it replaced as soon as you can. However, this is not the simplest of tasks so you might need some guidance if you wish to do it yourself. If you lack the confidence needed to pull this off as it involves working at height, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of a reliable roofing contractor or company who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through the processes involved in the replacement of broken tiles. Let’s have a look!

✓ Match your roof tiles perfectly. The most frequently used roof tiles are concrete and terracotta. They may look all similar but they can actually vary in shapes, length as well as thickness. To replace a broken tile, you must first make sure that it’s the same type of tile so it doesn’t interfere with the flow of your roof which can lead to further damage.

✓ Climb on to the roof. Make use of a strong and stable ladder to do this. If you’re not comfortable with heights, simply call in a professional. Falling of the roof would be more expensive.

✓ Remove the broken tile. Lift up the overlapping tile next to the broken tile in such a way to enable an easy removal of the broken one. If you’re not able to life them, then they probably have nails securing them in place. Remove these nails to proceed.

✓ Replace the broken tile with the new one. To do this, simply lift up the bottom tiles from the above row and then slide the new tile back in place. If the tiles have been nailed, make sure you also drive a nail through the hole in the new tile into the timber roof batten.

Blisters are most common on membrane roofing systems. Lots of contractors will tell you that if there are no signs of further damage, there might not be any need to repair flat roof blisters. They form when pockets of air or water get trapped between layers of the roof’s membrane or between the membrane and the frame. When the sun is out and it heats the pockets expand and stretch the membrane. If you do want to repair your flat roof blisters, there are a few ways to go about it.

If you have a membrane flat roof, cut away the membrane until you reach a place where the membrane is still stuck tightly to the roof. Reapply as many new membrane layers as you cut away over the blistered area. You might even need to do more. To make sure your patch remains watertight, you’ll need to leave at least 6 inches around the edges of the blister.

If you’ve got a felt roof, you can cut an X shape through the blister. Peel back the triangles that you’ve made and let the timber frame dry for a while (so don’t do this when rain is forecast!). Then, coat the area with lots of bitumen adhesive and leave it to dry until it feels tacky. Then press down the triangles of felt firmly into the adhesive.

After that, you’ll need to add more bitumen adhesive to the cuts you made. If you’ve got any spare roofing felt, cut a square that’s about 100mm bigger than the cuts then lay this over the adhesive. If you’ve not got any felt, it’s cheaper to use a self-adhesive flashing strip. Once you’ve laid the strip or patch over, seal the edges with more bitumen adhesive.