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Chances are at some point you’d probably given a though about how steps would fit in perfectly in your garden, except of course, your yard and garden is flat. Adding steps and gardens makes it a lot easier to get around your yard while also enhancing its curb appeal. In order to avoid the cost of hiring a professional to get the task done, you might be tempted to make it a DIY task. However, if you lack the required skill and confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you call in a professional so as to avoid costly errors. In this post, we’re going to take you through the garden steps building process. Let’s take a look!

1. Measure the vertical height of the slope by marking it with two parallel lines. Once done, proceed by connecting a string line to the slope’s top and hold it in a horizontal way, take a measurement of the flight’s length and breadth. Divide the measurement by 200mm to get the number of steps that’ll be required. Then proceed to divide the number by the height to identify the depth of each step.
2. Working downwards from the flight’s top, dig the step shapes and also dig a shallow trench and install a concrete foundation.
3. Enable the foundation to harden by leaving it for about 48 hours, then install two courses of bricks on the concrete strip and use gravel to backfill.
4. With the help of a trowel, apply mortar to the top of the brickwork. Place the first slab on the mortar bed and press down. Then, make use of a spirit level to make sure that the steps are level.
5. On the back edge of the first tread, you should proceed to build the second rise, backfill and install the slab to form the second tread – just like the previous step. Repeat this process until you’ve gotten to the top of the flight.

Wet rot simply refers to the decay of timber caused by high moisture levels. This natural decay occurs when the moisture content in timber is about 30 percent to 50 percent. This is opposing to dry rot which only occurs as a result of a lower moisture content of about 20 percent. Naturally, a fungus is attracted to very damp wood, which it feeds off and in turn, destroying it. There are a number of fungus types, however the most common type is Coniophora puteana (also referred to as cellar fungus). In general, wet rot is usually confined to a localised damp area and does not spread which makes it a lot less destructive when compared to dry rot. However, if left untreated or totally ignored, wet rot can be just as destructive as dry rot and can greatly reduce the structural strength of the timber thereby causing a major structural damage in the process. So, what causes wet rot? Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that wet rot would be non-existent without a damp area to grow and thrive as wet spores are attracted to wet timber with a high level of moisture content. This moisture can be as a result of a number of issues which includes defective plumbing, leaking gutters, leaking roof, broken pipes, leaking washing machine or a leaking shower tray or bath. When the moisture a timber is exposed to is excessive, this offer the perfect environment for the growth of wet rot as it enables fungal spores to germinate and grow. They use the wet timber as a food source and eat it away, leading to a weakened wood and a compromised structural integrity.

The main distinction between a Building Survey and HomeBuyer Report is that the survey is a great deal extra thorough, and offers you a highly comprehensive testimonial on the condition of your home.

Both major types of property survey from RICS are the Building Survey as well as the HomeBuyer Report. Although it is down to you, as the owner or buyer, to pick which survey is the right one for your requirements, there are some guidelines in place to aid you determine.

A HomeBuyer Report is generally far better for properties that:

• were built within the last 100 years
• are of even more conventional style
• are constructed from typical building materials
• are in a practical problem, as far as you can inform

A Building Survey is generally much better for residential or commercial properties that:

• are much older and developed greater than 100 years ago
• have gone through significant expansion or change
• are a lot bigger as well as supply considerable holiday accommodation
• you plan to change in the future
• are of non-traditional fabrication.

If you’re considering a house move, garden work or building project, one of the most common questions that comes to mind is, how much it would cost to hire a skip?

It is widely known that a skip represents one of the best and most affordable ways to get rid of your unwanted rubbish or waste. However, the determination of the cost of a skip hire depends on a number of factors such as your location, the size of the required skip, the skip hire duration as well as the requirement or otherwise of a skip hire permit.

The most significant determinant of a skip hire cost is the size required. The most common skip sizes are 4 and 8 cubic yard and as expected, the larger skips come at more expensive prices than the smaller ones. This is due to the fact that it can contain a larger amount of unwanted waste or rubbish. Generally, the skip hire price includes the delivery, collection and disposal of the waste. The more the waste, the larger the size of skip to be hired, which means a lot more expenses to be made.

Another factor that determines the cost of a skip hire is the duration. The standard duration of a skip hire is 2 weeks (14 days), however, this period can be extended for just a small amount so far a due notice is provided. Location is also another great determinant and that works considering the number of other skip hire companies in the area.

Overall, a small sized skip costs within the range of £90 to £130 per week, whereas a large sized skip of up to 12 yards for the same amount of time jumps up considerably to a range of £250 to £440. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

Most cookers have a depth of 60cm. This matches the standard depth of kitchen cabinets. However, you can get cookers and work surfaces that are shallower or deeper.Range cookers usually look best if they match the surfaces next to them. If you want your electric range cooker to do this, make sure you measure your work surfaces before you go looking for a cooker.

• Don’t buy cheap solar panels – while it might seem tempting, make sure you choose MCS-certified solar panels. Any reputable installer will recommend high quality solar panels, which is another reason to have them professionally installed rather than doing it yourself.
• Ensure that your installer uses non-combustible mounting systems and frames.
• Check your system regularly for signs of pests gnawing through cables.
• Keep your solar panel system regularly maintained with proper testing and servicing carried out as recommended by your installer.
• If something doesn’t look right to you, get in touch with your installer and ask – they should be more than happy to help.

1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m² 10 x 6 = 60m²
2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m²
3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m² / 0.358m² x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.