Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Turriff.

How To Apply For A Septic Tank Permit

There are some binding rules that must be followed if you’re the operator of a septic tank system or small sewage treatment plant. This binding rules include the following:

✓ The sewage must be domestic in nature. For instance the scum, sludge and waster water should come from the shower, toilet, kitchen, laundry room etc. If you’re not sure if your septic tank is domestic in nature in nature you can contact the Environment Agency.

✓ The sewage must not lead to pollution

There are also some binding rules whether you release to the ground such as your backyard garden or to a surface water like a stream or river.

In the event whereby you do not meet the general binding rules, you’ll need to apply for a septic tank permit. Here, the form you’ll have to fill will depend on where you discharge your sewage and how much sewage you discharge.

If you discharge your sewage to the ground there are different forms depending on whether you’re in a groundwater protection zone (SPZ1). Outside an SPZ1, there are different forms if you discharge between 2 and 15 cubic metres in a day and if its over 15 cubic metres per day. While inside an SPZ1, if you discharge less than 2 cubic metres per day you’ll fill different forms for systems in use before 1st January, 2015 and systems installed on or after that date.

If you want to discharge between 5 and 20 cubic metres sewage per day to a surface water, you can apply for a standard rules permit. If you can’t get a standard rules permit, you’ll need a permit to discharge up to 20 cubic metres per day and over 20 cubic metres per day.

Home renovations are an incredible way not only to beautify and add value to your home, but also to breathe fresh life as well as energy into your living space. If you’re currently wondering what room to renovate within your home, you may want to consider the bathroom. Not only is this a room that’s subjected to everyday use, but also has to deal with water attacks on a regular basis.

It’s a place where you groom, relax, cleanse and shower, meaning a lot of time is usually spent in this relatively small room. So if you’re planning to renovate your bathroom, one of the most frequently asked questions is, “how much it’ll cost to fit a new bathroom?. Of course like many other home improvement efforts, the cost of fitting a bathroom is largely dependent on the materials to be used as well as the size of the bathroom, whereas the cost of installation may be a lot less than you would’ve guessed. In this simple guide, you’ll get all what you need to understand the average cost of fitting a bathroom and to develop a good estimate for your project as well.

Generally, professional bathroom fitter will charge varying amounts based on the material that’s to be fitted. For instance, small projects that only involves installing a new basin can cost within a range of £70 to £120, whereas larger projects which involves tiling a big bathroom cam cost within the range of £800 to £1,200. Overall, the average cost of fitting a new bathroom will range between £4,200 to £4,800. you can, however, save some money by shopping smart as well as comparing the prices.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, loft insulation does cause condensation. Over the years, problems with condensation in loft spaces have become increasingly common. While this may not be harmful in anyway, when the condensation becomes excessive it can lead to more serious issues taking root in your loft like wet rot, dry rot as well as black spot mould. Generally, the best thing to do if you’re concerned about the condensation in your loft space and that it may rapidly become a bigger problem is to get in touch with a damp specialist as soon as possible.

Even though insulating your loft space comes with a wide array of benefits like making the top floor rooms warmer, it’s however comes at the cost of making your loft or room space cooler. Condensation in lofts take place primarily due to the humid air making its way through insulation or other gaps into the loft space and touching a cooler surface which in turn results in beads of moisture on the timbers, lintels as well as the underside of the roof. This is why its always a great idea make use of thermal insulation with a vapour barrier that’s installed on the warmer side of the insulating material.

Condensation in loft is caused by excess moisture in the air and lack of adequate air ventilation. Here are some top reasons that gives rise to this in the loft:

• Extra insulation has been installed in the loft leading to a restriction on the natural air circulation in the property.
• When the storage boxes or other items that has been stockpiled in the loft blocks the roof vents.
• The release of steam and moist air into the loft space by hot water tanks.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

Wooden flooring is very popular flooring option amongst home and property owners in the UK and understandably so. It adds to your space’s curb appeal, it’s quite easy to maintain, it adds to the value resale value of your property if you later wish to sell and lots more. If you’re looking to have wooden flooring installed in your home, you have two options which includes doing it yourself or calling in a professional – the latter being more advisable. However, by following some simple but essential steps, you can also install your wooden flooring successfully by yourself. These includes determining the site is in the best condition before installation, removal of all floor coverings and underlay for a more stable and durable installation and incorporation of the right expansion gap of about 10mm to 12mm which would be maintained around the floor’s perimeter.

Wooden floor fitting can be done on two types of sub-floor - Concrete and Plywood. To install onto concrete, you can follow the guide below:

• Incorporate flexible wood on concrete adhesives.
• With the help of a 3mm toothed trowel, spread above 2 board widths of adhesive along the starting wall sub-floor, beginning at a corner of your room.
• Position the first row of flooring into the area that is glued using the tongue facing opposite the wall.
• Put 10mm spacers against the wall to see to the consistency in expansion gaps.
• Make sure the joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from the first row when fitting the second row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

To install onto plywood, you can follow this guide:

• Make use of a porta-nailer.
• Position 10mm spacers against the wall - parallel with the installation direction.
• Fit the first row using the tongue facing opposite the wall and with the help of the porta-nailer or flooring nailer.
• Lay the second row and make sure the short end joints are at a minimum of 150mm apart from that of the first row.
• Utilize pre-cut smaller boards if you’re to start a new row with staggered joints.
• Continue with this nailing method and make sure the 10mm expansion gaps are consistent around the floor’s perimeter.

Paving can be used for driveways and is capable of bearing the weight of cars and other vehicles. Ensure that you choose the appropriate type of paving, as some are designed for paths or decorative use. Correct installation is vital as improperly installed paving may move or break under the weight of a car.

If you’re not an expert floor installer who would take wall tile installation as merely being a vertical floor, you are advised to be very cautious when tackling the project. The installation of wall tiles follow some set of rules which you’d better not break if you really wish to protect your investment. And worst of all, a wall tile done wrong is a lifetime penalty of having to look at it. So how can you get it right? Well, probably by reaching out to a wall tile installation professional for a good quality solution that’ll save you time, money and effort. However, we’ve put together this guide to help give you an insight of how it works and also to help you avoid some unnecessary expenses. Let’s have a look!

1. Hang a batten board
2. Start your rows of tiles or bottom-most course with a batten board which works to prevent spillage of tiles.
3. Position the batten board at 3/4 of the tiles’ height. Ensure not to start at the floor.
4. Form A Pyramid Shape With The Tiles
5. If you’ve reached the bottom row of tile, then arrange the tile in a pyramid shape. To achieve this, you’d have to install the tiles one through four as instructed. Each following row will be draped over the pyramid.
6. Examine The Floor For Level & Walls For Plumb
7. If your floor level or plumb is off by a maximum of a half-inch over the course of 8 feet, add extra baseboards and trim to cover up the problem.
8. The Least Size Of Tiles To Be Used Is Half-Wide
9. Ensure that no “silvers (tiles that are lower than half the width of the tile in question) are incorporated in the project.

If you’re thinking about the better option between tiling your walls either before or after fitting a kitchen, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’ll give a good insight on the best practices to help you plan and also avoid making costly mistakes.

The short and simple answer to this question is - it depends. It depends on structure of your home or property, your kitchen as well as the surface in question, the materials selected and also your unique preferences. This answer is mainly provided because there’s no tile industry standard explaining when a kitchen or cabinet should be fitted. Therefore, there’s a need to check the suitability of any structure and substrate needs by a professional before you determine the type of tile installation as well as when to install the tile.

If you decide to install the wall tiles before fitting the kitchen, here are some benefits you stand to derive:

✓ There will be no finish cuts or sealant application required for the perimeter joints at the finished sides of the cabinets making the installer’s job a lot easier

✓ This also implies extra square footage for the installer, but less detail as well as trim work.

✓ Water leaks from the kitchen won’t be able to cause much damage.

✓ It allows for more flexibility when remodelling in the future.

However, installing the wall tiles after fitting the kitchen also comes with some advantages. Let’s have a look!

✓ This means less in square footage, but more time in both detail as well as trim work.

✓ The risk of damage to the wall tiles by other trades is significantly minimized.

✓ It’ll be easier to change the wall tiles later on without having to remove the kitchen.