Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Clevedon.

Whilst you may think conservatories are nearly all made from glass, this doesn’t have to be the case. If you live in a built-up area you could have a tiled rooftop to enable extra privacy, use obscure glass and even invest in blinds.Be aware that solid walls are possible but if the conservatory is manufactured with less than 50% of glass, you’ll need Buildings Regulations approval.

A bathroom is not only a pretty big investment, but also one that requires thorough planning and consideration before the work can be kick started. This is a task all homeowners will all have to go through at least once and even more so when things break or become worn too terribly to consider repair. As a result, when it comes to fitting a shower you can be sure to dig a bit deep into your pocket to start and get the project over the line. In general, the cost of your new bathroom tend to vary based on the shower installation company or plumber you choose to hire, your location, the materials required, the type of shower and other furnishings chosen and more. In this post, we aim to give you a good insight into the shower fitting pricing so as to help you help you make informed decisions moving forward.

Generally, a standard shower usually costs within the range of £100 to £120 for installation and this usually takes about 3 hours to complete. For an electric shower, you should expect to incur within the range of £100 to £150 on the plumber and a similar price range for the electrician as well. And for the shower enclosure, you can expect to pay within the range of £150 to £250 for the labour and it’ll take up to 4 hours to complete. You’ll also factor in the taps,tiling, underfloor heating, extractor fan, bath, basin and toilet.

Overall, for a complete renovation of your shower, you can expect to incur within the range of £3000 to £5000 with the average duration of the job being 10 days. Meanwhile for a standard installation (only for bathroom fixtures), this will often cost within the range of £2000 to £2500 with an average job length of around 5 days.

1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
   • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
   • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
   • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
   • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
   • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
2. Building a shed base from concrete
   • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
   • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
   • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
   • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
   • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
   • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m²
   • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
   • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
   • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
   • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
   • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.

If you’re looking to purchase and install an air conditioning system in your home or property, what immediately comes to mind is the type to invest in. When it comes to air conditioners, the available choices are numerous - from window units to central air conditioning, through-the-wall air conditioners, portable air conditioners, ductless split system, package terminal air conditioners, swamp coolers as well as geothermal cooling systems. In this post, we’re going to consider the various type of air conditioners in order to help you make the best decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

• Window air conditioners. These are the most popular type of air conditioners which are typically mounted in a window. They possess an exhaust system which pushes hot air out the back and sides while the refrigerant cooling is pointed indoors.
• Central air conditioning. This is the most effective form of air conditioning if you happen to own a large home and want all rooms cooled at once.
• Portable air conditioners. Just like window air conditioners, these are self-contained air conditioning systems. In other words, portable air conditioners have all their essential components in one appliance just like in window air conditioning units.
• Through-the-wall air conditioners. These self-contained units that operates by bringing in warm air which is then exhausted while they send cool air back into the room ( similar to window air conditioners).
• Ductless split system air conditioners. Just like the name suggests, these are two-part air conditioners that are able to cool various areas within a home.
• Package terminal air conditioners. These are the type of air conditioners that are mostly used for cooling in commercial spaces like hospitals, hotels and the likes.
• Evaporative or “swamp” coolers. Although these aren’t as common as refrigerant air conditioners but they are just as effective. While conventional air conditioners make use of a refrigerant known as Freon, swamp coolers only incorporates air and water to function.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.

How To Fix A Broken Boiler

To fix any problem when it comes to home appliances, the first step is always to identify the problem while also carrying out thorough checks - a broken boiler is not an exception. Putting enough time and effort in diagnosing a problem can go a lot way to save you both time and money. So here are some of the steps you can take to fix your broken boiler before you put a call out to a licensed engineer.

✓ Check to confirm if your pilot light is on. Whenever you’re facing some issues with your boiler, this should always be the first thing you do. The pilot light being on speak volumes, if the light is off then there’s absolutely no way the flame can start the appliance’s gas supply. You should try to put it back on, if off. To do this, you simply have to follow the detailed instructions on your boiler’s manual strictly. If after following these actions to the letter and the issue remains the same, then you’d probably need the services of an a qualified engineer. Never try to fix the issue on your own.

✓ Check the pressure. The solution to the headaches might sometimes be as simple as examining your appliance’s pressure gauge. Here, the good numbers are around 1.0 or1.5, if it happens to fall below this, then you should open the boiler’s instruction manual. You can also inspect your radiator valves for any leaks. You’d have to call in a specialist to solve the issue.

✓ Check the thermostat. Here, it’s important to note that a faulty thermostat doesn’t necessarily imply a broken boiler. It may just signify that you need to replace your thermostat. Simply check to ensure that your thermostat is turned on and temperature is at the appropriate degree.

More often than not, several homeowners fail to realize there’s so much value sitting right under their roof - the loft. When a loft is insulated, there are so many juicy benefits that can be derived. It can go a long way to save increase you energy savings and several more functions. Therefore, if you really wish to maximize the space under your home’s roof, you’d have to considering insulating it. So how much would it cost to have your loft insulated? Here, you’ll discover the cost of insulating your lofts so you that you can set a budget and start to plan.

The cost of insulating a loft is actually affordable for several individuals, however, this depends on a wide range of factors such as the size of the house as well as the type of insulation being installed. One significant factor is the insulating material that you choose to install. If done properly, you’d be able to prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the house which helps improve energy efficiency and ultimately, save you some money on heating bills.

If you’d prefer to make it a DIY project and you go for a blanket insulation it costs about £5 per m2. therefore, this will cost within the range of £100 to about £150 for a small home.

For a professional service, you’ll be provided with a quote for both the materials and labour. The amount will be based on the number of insulation required, the company hired, your location as well as the method selected. The price to purchase and install blanket insulation  would be between the range of £300 to £400 depending on the size of your home.