Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Girvan.

Satellite TV is a service that provides its customers with a wide range of TV channels by transmitting signals from a communications satellite. Users around the world can pick it up using a satellite dish mounted on their property and connected to their TV. Satellite TV is particularly useful for viewers who live out of aerial and cable TV range in remote areas.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

What Is The Best Front Door For Security?

If you’re about to get a new front door for your home, one thing that most homeowners usually put into consideration is the type of door that can guarantee the highest level of security. Your front door is the first line of defence in ensuring the safety of your home. Going past your home’s threshold should deliver an unrivalled feeling of safety and shutting the door behind you should be enough to keep out any unwanted visitors or disturbances. Hence, the reason why the safety and security of your home should be a huge influencing factor to consider when getting a new type of door for your home or property.

In order to achieve this, the material through which your door is produced is the most crucial element that you must take into account when taking a decision. The door’s material is simply everything, it determines the security and safety, durability, appearance and even price.

In addition to avoiding potential front door headaches including warping, expansion and short lifespan, steel doors are simply the type of door that provides the most security and also the most durable. This type of door, when featuring the appropriate mechanisms, can’t be kicked in ( any unwanted visitor who still considers his leg useful wouldn’t even dare) and as result, keeping those you want out, out! They aren’t affected by temperature or the elements as they won’t crack or warp. Asides from this, they can also be designed to suit your taste with any paint or finish to your most preferred style. What’s more? Steel doors don’t require any form of reinforcement and are the most secure option in the market for your front door.

If your boiler is leaking, there are some checks that you can do yourself. However, you should never attempt to repair your boiler yourself – only a Gas Safe-registered engineer should conduct repairs.

There are 3 main reasons why your boiler might be leaking: there’s a pressure valve fault, a temperature valve leak or corrosion in the system. An engineer will be able to spot the problem quickly, but in the meantime there are a few things you can do:

Check the pipe fittings

If your boiler is leaking water around the pipe fittings, it could be an installation fault and you should get in touch with the engineer that fitted it. You can check the pipe fittings by drying the area then waiting to see if the water appears again. If it does, you may be able to do a ¼ turn of the pipe to stop it. However, you should still call the engineer that installed it to ask them to check the PTFE tape on the inside.

Inspect the seals

Over time, the rubber seals on a boiler can start to perish, so if you have an old boiler this could be the source of your leak. If you have a new boiler, it could be caused by your boiler running over pressure.

Heat exchanger corrosion

Unfortunately, if a boiler engineer discovers that the boiler is leaking water from the heat exchanger, this is the end of the road for your system. The heat exchanger is the most expensive part of your boiler, so it makes more financial sense to replace your boiler with a newer, more efficient model rather than try to replace it.

Being a commonly used building material in the 1950’s to about 1990’s, asbestos is very popular back in the days and used for almost every roofing project because of it fire resistant properties. They’re mostly mixed with cement and are known to last for over 4 decades.

Due to the harmful properties found in asbestos, the material was totally banned in the UK since the year 1999. It’s found that when disturbed, asbestos releases some fibres which when inhaled can result in some deadly health conditions such as lung cancer and asbestosis, which are all fatal. These diseases are mostly not detected until several years after the first exposure to the asbestos fibres, which makes them even more deadly. Hence, it’s crucial to know how to identify asbestos roof tiles so you can have them removed by a professional immediately. In this article, we’ll show you what you can look out for to identify asbestos roof tiles. Let’s take a look!

Asbestos roof tiles are typically square shaped and they also generally possess a combination of grey and black colour. Although asbestos can feature a number of colours based on the kind of material you mix with it. In truth, asbestos can be very tricky to identify, when disturbed not only are their fibres totally invisible to the naked eye but they’re also completely odourless. This implies that you may not even be aware that you’re exposed to such harmful material for a prolonged period of time. In order to accurately identify asbestos roof tiles, the only thing you can possibly do is to call in a UKAS accredited laboratory to have them tested. This way, you’ll have a peace of mind knowing the result will point you in the right direction.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

You don’t always need to replace your gutters with your roof. Often people think that it’s a requirement, or simply the best thing to do, but it’s not always necessary. The reason why people think it’s required is because to re-roof a home, the guttering often needs to be removed and put back on.

If the time has come to replace your roof, then the chances are that your guttering is pretty old too. When you start to get quotes for your roof replacement, ask the roofer to take a look at your guttering as well. If there are signs of peeling, rust, cracks or sagging, then it makes sense to replace your gutters with your roof. If you get them done at the same time, you’ll save money labour costs, which is the reason why most homeowners do it.

Another reason to replace your gutters with your roof is the risk of damage. Re-roofing is a significant project, so the guttering needs to come off most of the time – running the risk of brackets and pipes getting damaged in the process. So if your guttering is still looking good right now but you think it might need replacing in a couple of years, it might be worth just doing it at the same time as your roof to save you money and the stress if damage does occur.

However, if your guttering has only recently been replaced, then there’s no need to replace it again with your roof. But because it needs to come off, make sure you speak to the roofing company about keeping it safe and doing their best to avoid damage. It’s also worse ensuring that they have the correct insurance to cover you both in case your guttering does get damaged during your roof replacement.

How To Lay Block Paving

Do you wish to know how to install block paving? We’ve got you covered! Here, you’ll find a useful step by step guide that’ll provide you with all the necessary information to lay a wide range of block paving products available in the market today. You must, however, note that the installation of block paving can be a tricky affair and should not be attempted unless you have undergone a proper training or have a good experience in the field. If otherwise, we’d advise you to leave the task for a reliable block laying professional to guarantee the best results and also avoid making costly mistakes.

lDesign

• Draw up a design to perfectly suits your needs.

• Decide on the type of block as well as colour.

lExcavation

• Use a mini excavator or a JCB ( depending on the size of the job) to excavate the driveway.

• Identify and mark out the area to be excavated.

• Dug out the area until you reach a suitable level

• Ensure that the proposed finish level is 150mm underneath the damp proof course in any of the adjoining building’s brick.

lEdge Restraints

• Build a 100mm depth-thick concrete foundation with the help of a concrete mixer, 1 part cement and 6 parts ballast.

• Position the kerb unit on top of the level with a string line and spirit level.

• Use a trowel and rubber mallet to mortar the kerb unit to the foundation.

• Haunch the back of the kerb units in such a way that the concrete reach half way up the kerb’s rear.

lSubbase

• Put the crushed concrete in the edge restraints and ensure it’s at the desired level of 50mm.

• Use a vibrating plate to compact and level

lScreeding

• Apply a layer of sharp sand (to 50mm depth) and campact it using a vibrating plate.

• Apply second layer of sharp sand (to 20mm depth) on top of the first layer.

• Level the second layer to the correct falls.

lInstallation Of Paving

• Lay the block paving starting from the bottom of a slope.

• Ensure the blocks are placed at about 10mm to 15mm above the required finish level.

• Make sure the blocks used are between 3-5 packs as you proceed with your desired pattern. You may need to cut smaller block pieces to fill smaller gaps.

lFinishing Touches

• Clear out the area to ensure no debris is left on the blocks.

• Put kiln dried sand and brush across the whole of the area, ensuring the sands falls between the blocks’ joints.

• Compact the drive with the vibrating plate.

• Brush more kiln dried sand over the area and compact again

• Repeat the process until the joints are full of sand.