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The short answer to this is no! Smart thermostats can still be used without WiFi, however, they’ll be deprived of some certain capabilities and innovative features that comes mainly due to their ability to connect to the internet. As a result, the smart thermostat will only be functional for basic task such as heating and cooling control. In other words, making use of a WiFi connection will be in your best bet to enjoy the multiple juicy benefits that comes with a smart thermostats such as remote monitoring, ability to connect to other devices and display local weather conditions and much more. And what’s the use of purchasing a smart thermostat if you’d not be able to enjoy these remarkable features?

However, even when you have a WiFi, it’s expected for the connection to fail at times. When this happens, what will be the impact on your smart thermostat? Let’s have a closer look!

• As you would have expected, when your smart thermostat is disconnected from WiFi, features that are controlled with the mobile app would all be impacted. And this might be a big headache when you wish to access these features and control remotely when far away from home.

• When your smart thermostat connection to WiFi fails, all live updates and alerts would be affected. This implies that you’d stop seeing updates, reports and notifications on your mobile device. As a result, you’ll not be notified in case of an emergency like electricity cut-outs, water leaks, humidity and temperatures exceeding the set levels as well as thermostat’s low battery.

• The lack of a WiFi connection might have taken away all the juicy advantages of having a smart thermostat, but one function that remains unaffected is the basic one - the control of your home’s heating and cooling system. In other words, if your smart thermostat is offline, your home will still be heated and cooled to the thermostat’s set temperature.

As an environmentally conscious homeowner, it’s very likely you would have heard of a wood pellet boiler or maybe even considering fitting one in your home or property. So if you’ve heard about wood pellet boilers, you’d probably want to know about it especially how it works. In this article, we’re going to walk you through the wood pellet boilers operating process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Typically, wood pellet boilers possess 4 major components, these includes a burner ( which ignites or burns the pellets), a hopper ( which stores unused pellets), a conveyor ( which works to carry the pellets from the hopper to the burner where its ignited) and lastly, a controller ( which responds automatically to your thermostat and appliances’ demands).

✓ In the event whereby your thermostat demands heat or if you happen to switch on a hot water tap or appliance, pellets will be automatically fed into the burner which in turn ignites it and set the firing rate to match the needed heating load.

✓ In a situation whereby more pellets is needed by your boiler, the vacuum or augur system will act by pulling pellets from your bulk pellet storage bin and automatically refill itself.

✓ The wood pellet boiler will clean the burn pot and heat exchanger areas ( moving ash into the ash bin), during and after the burn cycles. The ash bin will be emptied once for every 2 to 3 ton of pellet that’s ignited.

Other facts about wood pellet boilers

✓ The wood pellet boiler can be directly linked to existing plumbing and heating system, regardless of whether or not there’s an existing heating oil boiler remaining.

✓ Wood pellets can be stored in bulk in a storage bin outside your home as the bins are generally weather resistant and also very durable.

1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.

It’s recommended to use a professional guttering company to repair or replace guttering, as well as to carry out cleaning. These companies have the required insurance and will comply with health and safety standards, particularly when working at height.

The bath waste is primarily responsible for the safe drainage of the bath once the plug is removed. Generally, it’s connected to the overflow which enables excess water to go away if the plug is in and the bath is overfilled. There are times whereby the bath waste can corrode and start to leak, so when this happens its important to replace the components so as to make sure that there’s no excessive water damage as well as other complications. This is a task any DIYer, regardless of the experience level can achieve, however if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we aim to take you through the bath waste fitting process to ensure you do it the right way. Let’s take a look!

• Remove the old bath waste. Do this by unscrewing the screw probably located at the centre of the waste cover. Then pull the outer cover away from the bath. Locate a larger washer underneath and lift it out, the clean the hole of any old sealant to make a smooth entry for the new waste.
• Disconnect the connector and pipe. Locate the plastic pipe that runs from the bottom of the bath to the overflow rose high up at the bath’s end. You’ll observe a connector at each end of the pipe, remove the pipe from the connectors and unscrew both connectors.
• Connect new fittings to new pipe. Take the new plastic waste and connect it to one end of the new plastic pipe and repeat the same process at the other end with the plastic overflow.
• Connect to the bath. Push or screw the waste up into the hole underneath the bath and connect into the trap pipe underneath. Push the new overflow into the bath’s back and on the front then screw I the rose or the cover of the new overflow.

Generally, extensions can be a very tricky undertaking - where it can be quite difficult to have a clear comprehension of the rules, regulations as well as costs. Therefore before you rush in to kick start your ground floor extension project, it’ll be wise to get a good grip on the cost. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a ground floor extension. Let’s take a look!

Just like several other home improvement projects, the cost of constructing a ground floor extension is based on a number of things which includes the size, materials used, your location, the quality of the tradesmen or company hired and lots more. For instance, if you happen to reside in London, the cost of your ground floor extension is going to be a lot higher than the other regions.

The single cost of a ground floor extension should fall within the range of £1,500 per square metre to about £2,000 per square metre. However, if you happen to live in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £1,900 per square metre to about £2,400 per square metre. These prices are for good quality ground floor extensions only. Basic or low quality extensions would naturally cost less while superior quality extension will cost more.

Now looking at the size of the ground floor extension, if you’re looking for a size of about 5m x 5m, you can expect to pay a price within the range of £32,000 to about £36,000. And as usual, in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £50,000 or even more. And that’s just for constructing the extension. If the other relevant costs like the 10 percent to 15 percent professional fees for the architect, planning application (if needed), building regulations and more, the price goes up.

How Much To Board A Loft?

If you stay in a building where the space meant for storing stuffs is not sufficient, boarding your loft may be just the perfect solution for you. In several homes, the space is already present, and all you have to do is to make it more usable by boarding it out. This is unarguably one of the easiest and quickest ways to create storage space in your home.

Boarding a loft comes with a number of special benefits which includes:

• Assisting to declutter our living spaces and makes for a more spacious home.

• Creating a usable space whereby all seasonal items can be stored.

• Assisting to reduce heating bills as it prevents the loss of heat. When your loft is well boarded and insulated, it’ll help trap heat and prevent it from escaping via the roof.

• Adding to your home’s value by making your attic a very useful space for storing items.

• Helping to create a quiet space which can used for relaxation or getaway purposes and of course, this will require a bit more structural work.

So now that you’ve learnt a few of the benefits associated with boarding a loft, how much will it cost to have one made? This depends on an array of factors which includes the size of the space needed, the type of materials and labour cost.

Overall, a standard semi detached building will feature a lot of space of about 40 sqm to 50 sqm in size. There’ll be a need to add to the height of the floor joists before installing the chipboard decking boards. This job size should cost within the range of £1,000 to £1,500. It’ll require just a two-person team that are fully equipped and well versed about the processes.

Plastering will fix small cracks in walls. Very small cracks may be fixed by simply reskimming plaster. More serious cracks will usually mean that you need to use new plasterboard or backing plaster. Larger jobs or deep cracks may need an experienced plasterer to come in.