Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Newmilns.

Soffits are constructed by homeowners on their properties for several purposes. Not only are they incorporated to hide away the unsightly features of a home, but they can also be used to add decorative architectural detail. Soffits construction, on the other hand, is a project that can be done by any DIY person with the knowledge and experience. However, if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results, the first time. In this guide, we’re are going to take you through the soffit construction process.

✓ Measure and mark. The first step is to take an accurate measurement of the size of your propose soffit and use a pencil to mark it out on both the wall and ceiling. The size of your soffits is mainly determined by your needs or preferences.

✓ Cut and Install Wall & Ceiling Plates. Proceed to cut the wall as well as ceiling plates once the dimensions have been marked. Make use of 2x4 lumber, you can cut to size with the help of a table saw or mitre. Once done, you can then attach it to the wall as well as ceiling studs with a framing nail gun.

✓ Build the box frame. Develop a box-frame from 2x4 lumber, using your measurements as guide.

✓ Fit the box frame. Hold the box frame in place with some slide clamps and then attach it to the ceiling and wall plates with drywall screws.

✓ Mark the studs. Make use of a pencil to mark out the studs location on your soffit box frame.

✓ Cut and hang the drywall. Cut the drywall with a utility knife uing your measurement as a guide. Once done, attach the drywall to the framework with the help of drywall screws.

✓ Add finishing touches. This includes installing the corner beads, finishing off with the common drywall work of taping, spackling and sanding. Once the spackle is dry, you can the complete it by painting the soffit.

The ridiculous, sprawling TV antennas are now a thing of the past - with the advancement in technology, today’s TV aerials combine both style and function at a price which is affordable. Now, we all want to get a decent signal in rooms without fixed aerials or watch TV on the go, without having to stress too much or pay an exorbitant price. If you’re looking to good TV aerials to purchase and install on your home or property, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’ve selected some of the very best TV aerials around to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

RGTech Monarch

With an impressive range of 50 miles, this paper-thin and multi-directional antenna is top of the range. It’s able to receive the full spectrum of TV as well as radio signals which implies a clear and noise free 4k and 1080p content. It features a filter which prevents any interference from mobile phone with the signal. What’s more? It also possesses a whooping 15ft, double-coated cable which implies that the antenna can help you get signal in all corners of your home or anywhere you choose to watch TV.

One For All SV9465 Loop

Considering the 15 miles and signal gain of 48Db, this antenna offers a great number of features at a reasonable price. It’s also HD-ready and is able to offer support to content resolutions of up to 4k. The TV aerial uses multiple boosting and stabilization features including Automatic Gain Control to maintain a good signal and avoid dips.

1byone Indoor Freeview Portable TV Aerial

This is an extremely thin TV aerial which can simply be stuck to a window to improve range as well as signal strength. It’s 4k ready and has a range of up to 25 miles which should be no problem as no wall is likely to obstruct the waves given the fact that it’s meant to be stuck to a window.

Laying artificial grass is a popular project – it’s a great way to create a smart, low-maintenance garden. There are plenty of professionals around who are experts at installing artificial grass, but it’s possible to DIY too if you’re feeling confident.

Lots of homeowners choose to replace their existing turf with artificial grass, so lay it on soil. To do this, start by clearing the area of any greenery or turf. Then remove any extra soil to a depth of about 40mm. You might want to leave the centre of your area slightly higher than the edges for a more natural look.

Next, you need to add a weed membrane and a sharp sand sub-base. It doesn’t really matter which one of these you do first, but you might find it easier to lay the weed membrane first and then use the sand to weigh it down, to a depth of about 35mm. Use a rake and plank to make the sand level, and compact it with a plank and heavy hammer. It doesn’t need to be completely flat – gentle slopes are fine. The weed membrane should overlap joints by 300mm.

After you’ve done this, you can lay your grass. Roll it out, trim it to size and fasten it in place. Make sure the ends of the grass rolls are staggered so they don’t end in a line. Lay the artificial grass with the pile (the strands) leaning towards the house so it looks nice and full when you’re looking out from the house. If you’ve decided to use edging boards, you can nail the grass into the tops of the boards. Or, if you haven’t, use ground pins to anchor it into the soil. Brush the grass and you’re done!

If you’re interested in getting a replacement door, you may want to know just how long it’ll take to fit your new patio door. However, there’s no specific answer to this question as there are different types of patio doors with all having unique installation processes as well as varying completion times. Generally, fitting patio doors will normally take within a range of 10 days to 21 days, except in situations whereby you have specific and non standard requirements. The time range provided represents the total duration starting from ordering the patio door till the installation is completed and this also varies from style to style.

If you want to get a professional double glazing surveyor, he will assess you property while also making sure the right and accurate measurements are taken and also plan out the installation. In order to avoid any unnecessary delays, this is a very crucial step as the surveyor will work to make sure any potential problems is identified early on. Once done, you can then wait a couple of days for the door to be manufactured and then fitted, depending on the door style and finish.

The time to completion varies depending on the complexity of the design. Patio doors may take about 14 days to 21 days with bifold patio doors being the most complicated and time consuming. This is due to the fact that they take longer time to manufacture and when you factor in the possible duration of the installation, you can expect a total duration between the range of 6 weeks to 8 weeks.

In addition, there are also some other factors that can affect the time it takes to install patio doors. These includes the need for a higher energy rating, upgraded security fittings, door hardware with custom finish and other special requirements that are beyond the standards.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

Like every other systems in your home, solar hot water systems will require periodic inspections as well as a regular maintenance in order to keep it running as efficiently as it should. Not only that, the various components will also require either repair or replacement from time to time. It’ll also be proactive to take the necessary precautions so as to prevent worrying issues like corrosion, scaling or freezing.

Is it a task you can handle on your own? Well, there are some inspections and maintenance activities you should be able to handle on your own, however, you’ll also require a qualified technician to carry out the more technical or complicated tasks. You should also take note that it may actually be more cost effective to have some systems replaced, shut off or removed completely than having it repaired. Here are some of the essential inspections that should be carried out on solar system components. They include:

✓ Collector soiling. Periodic cleaning of your collectors is important especially in dry and dusty climates.

✓ Plumbing, ductwork and wire connections. Check the pipe connections for fluid leaks. Examine duct connections and seals. Also make sure that all wire connections are tight.

✓ Roof penetrations. Flashing and sealant around the roof penetration should be checked to see that it’s in a good shape.

✓ Collector shading. Check for shading of the collectors on annual basis as this may greatly affect their performance.

✓ Support structures. Examine all bolts and nuts which connects the support structures to the collectors for tightness.

✓ Heat transfer fluids. Anti freeze solutions in liquid solar heating collectors will have to be replaced periodically. And this right here is a task that’s best handled by a licensed technician.

When the wiring on your property becomes dated, dangerous or non functional, then rewiring of your house becomes a necessity. If you’re thinking about rewiring your house, one of the first few things you’d have to put into consideration is the cost of completing the project in order to help you set a budget and start to plan. In this post, we seek to provide you with the most accurate cost possible for your project to help you get started as soon as possible.

In general, the average cost to rewire a house can vary from £2000 to about £10,000, which includes the prices for both material and labour. Factors that can have a great influence on the final price includes the type of your property, the quality of the existing wiring as well as the complexity of the installation needed. The most important determinants are probably the type of rewiring task you go for (whether for the whole house or some specific parts ) as well as the size of the house. The qualification of the electrician hired and the labour costs will also influence the final budget required to a great extent. Overall, the average cost of rewiring a house stands at £4000 and it will usually take up to 7 days for a complete rewire to be done. For older properties, you may need completely rewire the property in order to enhance the energy efficiency. However, this may not be required the your home was just recently built.

Being a messy and disruptive task which can also be very dangerous especially when handled by a inexperienced individual, we’d strongly recommend that house rewiring is carried out by a qualified and registered electrician who is well trained to perform this task to perfection.

Asbestos is basically a naturally occurring fibre which, until the 1990s, has been a commonly used material in construction and other industries. There are three major kinds of asbestos fibres in the UK and they include crocidolite or blue, amosite or brown as well as chrysotile or white.

Before it’s life threatening potentials were exposed, asbestos was commonly used across the globe in buildings and structures as a means of insulation, roofing, flooring and was also sprayed on ceiling as well as walls. Upon the discovery of its hazardous features however, it has been swiftly banned in the UK but it may still be discovered in buildings and structures that have been erected before the year 2000.

In the event whereby a building or structure possesses asbestos within them, it can pose only a little risk but only if they remain undisturbed. It’s only when they’re disturbed or damaged that the tiny asbestos fibres are usually discharged into the air and can be easily inhaled into the lungs. Breathing in of asbestos is a very harmful thing as the fibres can have a terrible impact on your lungs and their linings. What’s more? Asbestos-related health conditions’ symptoms normally takes several years to surface which means that an exposure to the deadly substance many years ago may only start to show symptoms today. Therefore, if you’ve worked in a building or construction industry especially within the time period of 1970s to 1990s, there is a real chance that you’ve been exposed to asbestos. This type of jobs include ship building, construction and insulation projects, but this doesn’t necessarily imply that asbestos exposure can not occur in other jobs as well.