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Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

If you are about to build a conservatory on your property, then chances are you’d want to know the types of repair that are common in a conservatory. We’ve been able to identify some type of issues which you’d most likely encounter if you happen to have a conservatory on your property.

First and foremost, most conservatories are built to be very tough and solid enough to withstand whatever is thrown at it by the weather, but over time they can still have their own share of problems just like any other erected structure. In other words, regardless of how well a conservatory is built or quality of the materials used, it’s still going to encounter some issues sooner or later. You can avoid some issue through regular upkeep and maintenance but there are some common issues you need to be aware of before investing in a new conservatory.

When it comes to conservatory repairs, wind and bad weather are the cause of most frequent issues to conservatory roofs as well as guttering which mostly results in repairs. This is because the roof is the most vulnerable part of any conservatory and that’s due to the fact that its the part that’s totally exposed to the elements. Here are some of the common issues you’re likely to come across with your conservatory roof that will need the attention of a professional.

The common problems includes leaking roof vents, slipped roof panels, warped and cracked gutters, broken end caps, misted or discoloured panels, leaks from poor flashing, blocked gutters, leaking gutters, snapped brackets, cracked panels and more.

Also commonly referred to as a consumer unit in recent times, a fuse box is responsible for controlling and allocating of the electricity in your home. They hold the power any time there’s an overload in one of the circuits which in turn, prevents fire as well as electrical damage. Fuse boxes are often incorporated in homes but consumer units are very rapidly replacing them. Therefore, when your fuse box breaks down, it’s always a smart decision to replace them with consumer units due to the fact that they’re safer and also comply with building regulations while also being a lot easier to use. If you’re extending your home, upgrading to a larger capacity model enables you to make use of more power with the power overloading. In this post, we’re going to cover the amount you’re expected to pay to replace or install a new fuse box or consumer unit as well as the factors that may affect the cost.

For a 10 way dual RCD consumer unit, the typical cost range will be between £250 to £600, meanwhile 15 way dual RCD consumer unit should cost within the range of £300 to £700. Overall, the smaller the house, the fewer the circuits that’ll be needed, hence the difference in the aforementioned prices.

There a number of factors that can affect the cost of replacing a fuse box. These factors includes the the size of the house in question ( the bigger the house , the more the circuits there are and the bigger the fuse box needed), the location ( for instance, places like London where there are higher demands are likely to be more expensive than other regions ).

Velux windows, or roof windows, are very easy to clean. Regular cleaning helps to keep them looking bright and shiny for years to come. So how should you clean Velux windows?

If you want to clean the air filter, you can remove it and wash it with your normal household cleaners. Velux windows have a cleaning position, so rotate and secure it into this position then remove the filter. You should be able to buy new filters from the manufacturer of your roof window.

To clean the outer pane, there’s no need to lean out of the window and risk falling out. Simply rotate the sash (the opening part) 180 degrees and secure it into position. Then you can clean the pane with a soft, lint-free cloth, sponge or squeegee and clean water. If you live in a hard water area, add some detergent to the water and wipe the window dry when you’re finished. You can also use normal non-abrasive household cleaners.

It’s recommended that you clean the flashing around your roof window at least once a year. You can use a brush to do this. This will allow rainwater to flow freely and stop any leaves from collecting.

If you’re in any doubt about using certain cleaners on your Velux windows, get in touch with the manufacturer who should be able to help. You can also do a patch test on an inconspicuous area if you’re unsure.

We all need a reliable place to keep our clothes or dresses, however in situations where a standard freestanding wardrobe just won’t cut it, there is the need to put into consideration a fitted wardrobe. For instance, if you have a bedroom with acloves and sloping ceilings, you’ll discover that the standard-size, freestanding wardrobe just won’t be suitable as they’ll appear strange and look very much out of place while also not being able to put the available space to efficient use. In this regard, a fitted wardrobe will do a much better job as it’s a lot more suitable for mostly all types of bedrooms. So if you’re thinking about having one fitted in your bedroom, you’d probably want to know the just how much it’ll cost. In this article, we’re going to provide you with a good insight on fitted wardrobes cost.

Generally, the prices of fitted wardrobes depend largely on a number of factors. These variables include both the quality as well as the type of included fittings. The types of fitted wardrobes with their estimated price range are given below:

✓ Bespoke fitted bedroom wardrobe. This type can range between £2500 to about £3000 depending on the design details. The extras include mouldings, columns and panels.

✓ Simple two section closet. This type can range between £2500 to about £3200 depending on the design.

✓ Large bedroom, three section, six doors. This type of fitted wardrobe features both interior and exterior finishes alongside drawers and hanging space. The cost normally ranges between £4400 to £4900.

✓ Contemporary, sliding door fitted wardrobe. This type usually features three sections alongside door mirrors to make the bedroom appear larger. The cost normally ranges between £2800 to £3600.

1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.

Air source heat pumps work by taking heat from the air and using it to heat your home. They absorb heat from the air into a fluid, which then goes to a compressor where it gets hotter. This heat is then used to warm up water or air, which is distributed around your home.

First and foremost, you should know that heat pump is simply a device whose primary function is the transmission of thermal energy from one spot to the other. A good example can be found in the refrigerators whereby the evaporation as well as cooling of a liquid is incorporated to lower the storage compartment’s temperature. In recent times, this whole technology is utilized to draw the potential thermal energy present in the air outside and transmit it directly to the home or property where it’s going to be compressed and the heat transferred with the help of a number of coils. This is exactly what an air source heat pump does as it absorbs heat from the air and convert it into a higher temperature using a compressor. How the air source heat pump works is really simple, it’s just like a refrigerator but in reverse. Let’s take a look!

• The air source heat pump extracts heat present in the outside air into a liquid refrigerant at a reduced temperature.
• The pump then compresses the liquid to increase its temperature with the help of electricity. Once done, it then compresses it back to liquid so as to free the heat stored.
• The heat released is then directed to the radiators or under floor heating, while the ones left would be stored in the hot water cylinder.
• The hot water that’s stored can be used for showers, baths as well as taps.

Overall, the air source heat pump is an efficient way to make your home warm. It makes use of electricity to function, but it should consume lower electrical energy than the heat it generates.