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If you’re thinking about installing a solar system in your home or property, this is probably one of the things you’d like to know before making a purchase decision. Well, you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight into this to help you make the best informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, it must be stated that providing a short and accurate answer to this question is nearly impossible as the amount of time a solar panel will last after dark is influenced by a number of factors. These factors include the size of your solar system, the battery size as well as your power usage. As you would have imagined, batteries are charged when there is excess energy that’s being produced by your solar system but it’s not being incorporated to power your home or property. More often than not, this occurs during the sunlight’s peak periods from about 10am to 2pm.

The time it’ll take for your battery to charge is influenced by the size of your solar system in Kilowatts, the size of your battery as well as the rate in which your system is being used. Your battery can be charged in a day or two, of course unless it’s an over-sized battery for your system.

When the sun sets and your solar panels can no longer directly run your appliances via electricity generation, the battery then kicks in. You will use about 1 to 2 kW’s of power if you’re watching TV, using the oven as well as lights internet etc. in other words, even a small solar panel battery will last all night. However, the same doesn’t apply if you’re having a party with running floodlights, three fridges and air conditioner as the battery will drain a lot faster.

During a boiler service, your boiler engineer will perform a series of checks to ensure that your boiler is safe and efficient. First, they will conduct a visual inspection to check for any corrosion or leaks. They will also check the flame in your boiler. They’ll then remove the boiler casing and check all the components, including the heat exchanger, burner and spark probe, then clean the inside. After this, they’ll check the flue for obstructions and ensure that it’s safely fitted. They will then do a gas pressure check to ensure the boiler is working at the right pressure, before firing it up to check for any working faults.

With your finger probably hovering round the ‘order now’ button, one thing often comes to mind, what size of skip do you actually need? Being fully aware that there’s a huge array of skips sizes and hiring the appropriate size can make a whole world of difference when it comes to cost, efforts must be made to ensure you determine the right skip size before clicking on that ‘order now’ button.

To give you a better idea of skip sizes and the type of project that they are best suited to, we have decided to provide this simple breakdown that’ll make your decision process a breeze - quick and easy.

• 4 Yard Skips ( 3 cubic metres )

The 4 yard skip is best suited to small domestic projects like home or garden clean or clear outs, bathroom or kitchen refurbishments and the likes, due to its relatively small size. It has a capacity to carry about 30 bin bags at a go.

• 6 Yard Skips ( 6.5 cubic metres)

Do you want a skip for domestic purposes or for small commercial projects?if yes, then you should definitely give the 6 yard skip a shot. It has a capacity to hold up to 60 bin bags.

• 8 Yard Skips ( 6 cubic metres)

This skip size is best suited to large domestic tasks or light commercial projects. It has a capacity to hold up to 60 to 80 bags effortlessly.

• 10 Yard Skips ( 7.65 cubic metres)

With a skip size this big, both large residential and commercial projects can be handled with relative ease. Not only does it have the capacity to hold up to 80 to 100 bin bags, but also comes with an enclosed lid option, if you need an extra security for your property.

• 12 Yard Skips ( 9.18 cubic metres)

This skip size is best suited to both large residential projects and building sites. It has a capacity to hold up to 100 to 120 bin bags, and just like the 10 yard skips, it comes with an enclosed lid option for an extra security.

Click here to learn more about skips

How To Prepare Exterior Walls For Painting?

For a great and smooth exterior finish, preparing the walls before painting is crucial. A great painting job melts the heart and even more so if its done by you. This is a relatively easy task that can be completed without much hassle by an expert DIYer. However if you lack the needed confidence to pull off your exterior wall painting preparation task, then hiring the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best result would be your best bet. In this step by step, we aim to take you through the steps involved in preparing exterior walls for painting.

Before you get started, you need to make sure you have the necessary tools in place. These includes a filler and filling knife, sandpaper, soap, sponge, wide paint brush, masking tape as well as drop sheets.

✓ Ensure a smooth surface with a filer and sanding. This includes removing and replacing any rotten or decaying timer, proper sanding as needed, scraping off of peeling areas with sanding and filling of cracking areas with the help of exterior grade filler. Once the above is completed, you can then proceed to filling any holes or cracks in your exterior surface with a top quality exterior filler ( the application should be done with a putty knife).

✓ Cleaning. With the help of a quality and soft brush, clear out the dirt and cobwebs on the exterior’s surface. Then wash the walls with a good detergent to remove any remaining dirt and grease. You can use a bristled brush and a high pressure cleaner to make the process easier.

✓ Mask the area. This involves using a top quality masking tape along the edges you do not wish to paint and pushing the tape’s edges down firmly in such a way to get straight edges.

If you’re looking to plaster your ceiling, one of the most essential parts of the process is cutting the plasterboard. Once you’re able to master this skill, the rest of the plastering is quite easy. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but with a little bit of patience and confidence. If you lack any of these attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the plasterboard ceiling cutting process. Let’s take a look!

To cut plasterboard ceiling, you don’t need any expensive tool which is usually not the case when it comes to carpentry. If you won’t be cutting a lot of plasterboard, all you really need would be just an old handsaw or plasterboard one, a Stanley knife as well as a straight edge. However, if you’ll be cutting lots of plasterboards, you’ll require the following to make your task a lot easier:

✓ An old handsaw

✓ A Stanley knife and many spare blades

✓ A straight edge like a long spirit level

✓ A surform

✓ A battery drill and oh2 screwdriver bits, with specific plasterboard screws.

To cut plasterboard to length, you’ll have to first score a line on the face side of the board with a straight edge and Stanley knife. Once done, simply lift the sheet off the ground and snap it along the score line. Then, you can run your knife down the other side of the board , cutting the back of the plasterboard backing sheet. Upon completion, your plasterboard is now ready to be fitted on your ceiling.

Rendering is an external wall’s plastered finish which provides a smooth finish while also protecting the brickwork from the elements like rain, snow and the likes. The traditional rendering is normally applied in two or three coats which enables it to be more resistant to surface cracks. In modern times, the finishes are largely different from the grey pebble dash of post war housing. Today, we now have a plethora of specialist products to pick from such as through-coloured silicone renders as well as one coat renders. The types of renders include the following:

✓ Cement renders. These are the common option that are usually mixed on site and used in a number of applications, then painted when dried. There’s a need to paint this type of render regularly to keep them looking great.

✓ Polymer renders. These are pre mixed and mostly pre coloured (usually with through colouring).

✓ Through-coloured products. These rendered do not need to be painted as the pigment is already added in the manufacturing process to colour the whole render.

✓ Lime renders. These are superior to cement as they’re less likely to trap moisture in the brickwork and also more good looking. However, they’re generally more costly and more difficult to apply.

Overall, rendering on a house provides several benefits. Not only is it able to protect your brickwork against the elements like the rain and wind, but it can also make the building more efficient. Being fully aware that about 30 percent of the energy used in heating a home is lost via the external walls, making use of a product such as acrylic insulated render is a smart approach to improve your home’s energy efficiency without affecting your interior living space.

The surveyors will check the entire property for signs of asbestos. They may take samples which can be taken away for anaylsis. If they find asbestos, they will inspect its condition, what grade it is and advise you of the best course of action to take.

There are a huge range of worktops on the market. In terms of material, worktops can be laminate, wood, natural stone (granite etc.) or metal. Worktops are available in a massive variety of styles and colours, to suit any style of interior decoration.