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When people talk about finishes on a wooden conservatory, there are a few different things that they may be referring to. Some may be referring to the colour and type of wood used to build the conservatory, but they may also be talking about the type of treatment used to protect the wood from the weather. We’ll cover both bases for what finish is best on a wooden conservatory here.

When you’re thinking about the best wood type and finish for the conservatory, it’s best to go with a hardwood. There are both hardwoods and softwoods, and hardwoods are the most durable. Oak is the most expensive choice but is also the most durable, so lots of people decide to go for this option. Other good choices that are slightly cheaper are Brazilian cedar and idigbo. Softwoods like European redwood or Siberian larch are cheaper still, but they won’t last as long, so it may work out more cost-effective to spend more on a hardwood.

Wood is a natural material, so it’s important to look after your wooden conservatory to prevent it from rotting or getting attacked by bugs and pests. Your conservatory will be exposed to all weathers, so you’ll need to use a good finish to ensure that it stays in tip-top condition for years to come. Your installer should be able to tell you what’s best, but some of the best finishes for a wooden conservatory include breathable varnishes and decking oil. However, if you do use an oil, it’s best to use a preservative treatment too; oil will only repel water. Joints are particularly susceptible to water penetration, so make sure you use a good wood treatment and focus on areas where water would pool during rain. Then you can apply a decking oil afterwards.

Modern wireless alarm systems are as reliable as wired systems. Wireless systems can transmit alerts as quickly and reliably as wired systems. They are also suitable for installation in more places as there does not need to be space to hide the wires.

This is definitely one of the questions that first comes to mind when considering to acquire a skip for either residential or commercial waste disposal purposes. The cost of a skip is dependent on so many factors but the most significant determinants would be the volume of the waste and type/size of the skip you require.

Once you are able to identify the most suitable skip size for the volume of waste or rubbish for disposal at your premises, estimating the cost would be a lot easier. Here, we’ll give you an insight into skip sizes and the amount of waste each skip type can hold at a go.

Skip Types

• Mini Skip

This is also referred to as a 4 yard skip which is the smallest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 40 and 45 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £90 to £130 for a week’s hire.

• Medium Skip

The 8 yard skip is the most common and has the capacity to hold within a range of 80 to 90 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £200 to £250 for a week’s hire.

• Large Skip

The 12 yard skip is the largest and has the capacity to hold within a range of 125 to 135 average sized waste bags. It normally costs between £250 to £340 for a week’s hire outside London. However, it can be a little bit more expensive in the capital - about £350 to £390 for the same amount of time.

It must, however, be taken into account that the cost of a skip also depends on other factors such as your location, the skip hire company, the volume of waste and lots more. Click here to learn more about skip prices.

Bifold doors are generally very low maintenance. They will only need infrequent cleaning and occasionally you may need to oil the track mechanism to ensure smooth opening. Speak to your installer and ask about general housekeeping and long lasting treatments.

Scarification is the name given to the process where you remove excess thatch and moss from your lawn to encourage it to grow and look healthy. Although it sounds difficult, it’s actually pretty easy – simply grab a sturdy rake and apply moderate pressure to rake out moss, thatch and dead grass. Then collect it up and add to your compost heap if you have one. You can also use a petrol or electric rake, but you just want to tease out the moss and thatch. Don’t be tempted to go deep into the grass, as this could damage your lawn. So when should you scarify your lawn? The experts say that the best time is in the autumn, when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. Most of summer’s weed seeds will have gone, so you won’t encourage weeds to grow in the raked-up soil. This soil also makes an ideal seed bed for over seeding with new grass seed, so that’s why you don’t want to get weeds in there as well. However, you may also carry out light scarification in the spring – usually around April. Make sure you don’t go too far though – as you will end up with a rather disfigured lawn if you scarify too heavily and the dryness of summer stops the lawn from recovering. It’s also best to scarify your lawn in the spring if the following apply:

• If you couldn’t do it the previous autumn – if you keep putting it off, you might end up with extreme moss and weed growth
• If your lawn is shaded – these areas will thin over winter and start to thicken from spring onwards, so if you scarify in the autumn you’ll make your lawn even thinner.
• If your lawn is under trees – pair the shade from the trees with the fall of leaves in the autumn and your grass won’t be healthy, but in the spring the trees are bare, allowing lots of light onto your lawn to help it grow.

It can be easy to repair a felt flat roof depending on the problem. If you’ve got an old-style pour-and-roll felt flat roof, you might be starting to run into problems, but even if you have a newer torch-on felt roof, issues can occur. You might find cracks, lifting, leaking flashings or dips and hollows in the felt. Luckily, there are some easy fixes – but the best thing to do to prolong the life of your felt flat roof is to get a professional to look at it.

If your felt flat roof only needs a small repair, you might be able to get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin that you just brush on. However, if you want a more permanent fix, you’ll need a few more tools and supplies.

You can use a patch of torched-on roofing felt over the crack or leak, but if your flat roof is very damaged or wet it might not take it. You can also buy liquid systems for felt roofs, but again, there is a possibility that your roof might not take it. Also most of the high-quality liquid systems are only available for trade customers, so you might be better off asking a roofing pro to do it for you.

Are you about to purchase a double glazed unit and wondering how to go about the replacement project? If yes, then you’re at the right place. Firstly, it’s advisable to hire the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help especially if you lack proper training and experience in the field. However, we’ve put together this step by step guide to provide you with a detailed information about the double glazed unit replacement process. Let’s get started!

The tools and materials you require for the project includes tape measure, hammers, nail punch, scraper, spacing blocks, non-hardening butyl putty, high-security glazing tape rolls and beading tacks.

• Work out the glass size required. Simply use the tape measure to measure from frame edge to frame edge while also taking note of the thickness.

• When about to order, inform the glass merchant that the measurement provided are frame-tight. This will make him reduce the dimension a little bit, mostly by 5mm for clearance.

• Remove the beading and ensure to support the glass while doing so. If the glass units are fitted in wooden windows, you may need to cut the putty-based compound they’re normally sealed with to remove the glass.

• Lay out the beading in the window’s shape to make for easier refitting later on.

• If you’re working on wooden frames, wipe out all traces of excess installation compound using a scraper and clean the rebate with a soft brush.

• Trial fit the double glazed windows to ensure they’d slide into the frame without being forced.

• Plastic frame windows are usually in between a pair of gaskets, you should replace this with a hight security glazing tape. While for a wooden frame, simply apply strips of flexible non-setting butyl putty or high-security glazing tape on either sides of the glass.

• Install and centralize the glass in the frame.

• Press the nail wooden beading or plastic beading back into place.