Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Berkshire.

1. After the installer’s measured up, given you an estimated output and recommended some systems for you, they’ll arrange date to come to your home to install the solar thermal panels. They’ll also let you know if any scaffolding will be required.
2. Next, they will start to fit the panels, or collectors, to your roof. Stainless steel brackets will be provided with the system and they will remove your roof tiles or slates to attach the brackets to the rafters. They’ll then replace the tiles and add waterproof flashing to ensure you don’t get any roof leaks, and add the frame.
3. If you’ve chosen evacuated tube solar thermal panels, the installer will bolt the heat transfer unit to the top of the frame but not install the tubes until nearer the end. This is because the tubes start to transfer heat to the exchanger immediately, and when everything is unconnected this could damage the unit.
4. If you don’t need a new boiler with your installation, a new dual coil water cylinder, pump and system control system will be fitted. It’s best in a loft or upper floor of your home.
5. A new thermal store or hot water tank that will store the heat provided by the solar system is much larger than a standard tank but it may fit in the spot of your old one. The installer will ensure that it’s connected to the mains cold water, your other heating source (such as a gas boiler or biomass boiler), immersion heater, temperature sensors and the solar collectors themselves.
6. Next they will install the pumping station, usually near the water tank. The expansion tank will be installed on the solar thermal loop, which is usually nearby. Its job is to prevent pressure changes that could damage the system.
7. You’ll get a heat generation meter which must be MCS-certified if you want to take advantage of the RHI, and any control equipment that comes with the system will be installed.
8. The installers will then bring the system to pressure by pumping the heat transfer liquid into the system up to a pressure of around 2 bar.
9. Finally, your MCS-registered installer will register your solar thermal system so you can apply for RHI payments of up to £525 per year.
So that’s the process of installing solar thermal panels. Remember – it's always best to use a professional to install any kind of renewable technology.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

There are two main types of air source heat pump: air-to-water and air-to-air. They work in different ways and have different advantages and disadvantages. Make sure you do your research so you know which one is best for you. Alternatively a registered installer will be able to determine the best type for your property.

It always an exciting decision to extend your home, be it adding to an existing room or building a new one all together. However, the problem starts when you realize there are so many options giving you a tricky challenge of knowing which to choose or where to start. There are great differences in renovations between homes, but a common question that remains is whether to go for a conservatory or an orangery.

There are large array of differences between the styles and knowing a thing or two about the special attributes is definitely a great way to get started. Let’s have a look!

• Orangeries are generally best suited to traditional-styled homes or with older property making use of matching stone or brick in construction. Meanwhile for a more recent or modern property, a conservatory will be the better option to add the flair to your property.

• Conservatories tend to be larger than orangeries, therefore if you want a smaller extension, an orangery would be your best bet.

• Orangeries are typically rectangular in shape and is traditionally a more regular building meanwhile a conservatory can be shaped to suit your needs. With an conservatory, you can get a T-shaped, L-shaped, curved, double ended and lean-to extensions to suit your preference.

• An orangery usually possess a flat roof at the edges with a glazed lantern section right at the centre. You can also find more luxurious orangeries having two or more lantern sections. However, when it comes to the roofing, conservatories generally have more options. Some are gabled or pitched, others are lean-to with a plethora of choice to finish off the roof.

• Due to the fact that orangeries are made of more brick than glass when compared to conservatories, they usually provide more insulation than their counterpart. If your goal is to use the extension during the winter months, then constructing an orangery is the best bet.

How To Remove Old Exterior Paint

When the paint of your house is starting to peel, there’s the need to take a swift action. While some homeowners opt to cover it with vinyl siding or replace it with fibre cement siding, there’s no reason why you would want to hide the exterior of your house if it still looks great. When you don’t want to hide the beauty of your exterior, the only other option you’ve got is stripping or removing of the old paint. So how do you remove old exterior paint without much hassle? Let’s take a look!

✓ Propane blowtorch. Due to its affordability and effectiveness, this blowtorch has been one of the most popular means of removing old exterior paint amongst homeowners for quite some time. It makes use of high heat to soften the acrylic-latex paint which makes it easy to peel off with a putty knife. However, it can also be very risky to use as it’s always a dangerous game when it comes to open flames. What’s more? Applying an open flame to lead-based paint may release toxic lead fumes, therefore you’d have to be very careful if you wish to use this method.

✓ Electric sanders. Belt sanders are a great option to removing old exterior paint as they’re able to strip off the paint quickly. However, this must be done gently and carefully as you’d risk gouging the wood if you lay into the sander too hard. The problem with this method is also lead-based paint as the sander tends to convert everything to dust and direct them straight to your face, hair and lungs.

✓ Scrapping. This involves using a sharp, rigid putty knife or blade designed for painting scraping to strip the exterior paint. This method also involves dust but you’d have a better control over it than the sander.

With the title of this blog, do not be deceived into thinking the purpose is to encourage you to install an external insulation by yourself. Even as a competent DIYer, it’s not advisable to buy a couple of materials and start slapping it into the wall hoping for the best outcome. External insulation is by no means a DIY job and without the proper training and experience, it can easily turn out disastrous resulting in loss of time, effort and money in such a valuable project. This blog, however, will give you a great insight on how the installation process works and help maximize knowledge ensuring you do not spend more than necessary.

External Insulation Installation

lRender Test

• This is done to ensure the existing render is good enough for insulation support.

• If positive, the insulation can be applied directly onto it.

• If negative, ensure removal of the old render before fitting the insulation.

lPipework Adjustment & Removal

• Remove all pipework prior to insulation fitting

• Install temporary downpipes to ensure water is not wasted and everything continue to function normally during the insulation fitting process.

lWindow Protection

• Protect the window with a protective layer or film.

lStarter Track Fitting

• Determine level you want the insulation to start (height).

• Fit the aluminium start track or carrier tray at the identified level.

lInsulation Boards Fitting

• Apply a layer of adhesive to the board and glue them to the wall in a staggered pattern.

• Cut to fit round all obstructions and windows.

• File off the edge of the board where necessary using a rasp upon successful fitting of the boards

lMechanical Fixing Inclusion

• Hammer around 10 fixings per square metre into the board.

• This is to secure the insulation boards.

lBeading Fitting

• Add corner beads and stop beads to ensure the insulation is secure and to prevent it from making contact with other materials.

lReinforcing Mesh & Render Addition

• Apply two layers of strengthening properties and between the two layers of render, include a fibre glass mesh.

lPrimer Application

• Paint on the primer

lFinal Render Application

• Choose your most preferred texture and colour as this will be the last coating of the installation process.

lPipework Re-installation

• Re-install all detached pipework at the start of the installation process.

Commercial solar panels installation companies are everywhere. However, it’ll be a great mistake to think finding one nearby for your project would be the least of your worries, as both cost and reliability comes into question. This is even more worrisome when you’re fully aware that your solar system potentials can only be fully maximized depending on how well it’s installed and how good your installer is. If you’re also facing the same challenge, then you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll share with you some tips on how to choose a nearby professional and reliable commercial solar panel installer who’ll ensure you get immense value for every penny spent. Let’s take a look!

• Ask for recommendations. Personal recommendations is always the best way to go, when looking for a commercial solar panel installer or any other tradesperson for that matter. Installation of a commercial solar system is a major undertaking which comes with a lot of costs, so if you’re going to do it the least you can do is ensure you do it right. Carry out your research, ask friends and family, neighbours and loved ones if the know of any reliable commercial solar panel installer in the local area. If they have one they’ve used, you can request for the cost, quality of the job done, the duration of the project and any other detail you feel you should know.
• Internet. In modern times, you’ll hardly find a progressive-minded business without an online presence. As a result, finding a service on the internet is as simple as it gets. A simple Google search have been helping people find their desired service providers with relative ease for so long. Or use the Quotatis directory to find a commercial solar installer. To get the right commercial solar panel installer online, it’s advisable to check their reviews as well as testimonials before moving forward.

Many examples of asbestos will not need removing, for example if it is present in artex that is in good condition. However, if you are carrying out building work on or near the asbestos it should be carefully removed before the building work starts to make sure it is not accidentally disturbed.